The ALL Florida Online Corvette Club - Clutch Pedal Going limp

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- - Clutch Pedal Going limp (https://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27196)

The cheapest and easiest solution to start with is by following Ranger's method as referenced in the link above. Also search ranger on the Corvette Forum.

This is a hotly debated topic and no one has been able to say exactly for sure the answer to the problem. Many have stated success with Ranger's method however some have not.

Point being, since it's relatively inexpensive, why not start there and then proceed to more expensive solutions.

Ranger's method has been tested at the track with data to back it up.

good Luck

If I may speak from experience... 5 times I replaced my clutch because of this exact issue... I can assure you that everytime we took out the clutch. It was fine. We replaced it ONLY because it was already out of the car. So back to your question ...why?? Well after a few trials and errors. Llamar walden racing in Atlanta found that thier was a issue with the DOT level that was in the system. I upgraded to dot 5 clutch fluid and no problem since. The lower dot fluid will heat and aspirate causing air to get in the lines and since it can't presurize air the same way it does fluid. The pedal goes limp. ANSWER .. dot 5 brake / clutch fluid. It's like Viagra for your clutch. It will keep your pedal up

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knowles' Z06 (Post 83592)

Can anyone explain why this weekend while at the SGMP drag strip my pedal would go limp...?

For the first time I used Mickey ETs drag Radials and they really seemed to hook nice 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to 3rd the pedal was on the floor board with in a second or so, it sprag back up...I have spoke n to some that say it was slipping from the heat and others that say it is a RPM and speed ratio issue...I wonder about the heat concept because itis not like I was drag racing all day there was at least 20-30 min usually longer before I was up again...Also it only happened here and there it seemed liike when I had a really good launch and the car was really sticking with a lot of pull....limp city

even though I have to figure this out I had a blast and put up a 11.395 at 127.8 mph not bad for a 1/4 mile with a limp pedal LOL:D

Eddie

I thought I read a no-non about DOT 5 brake fluid, so I looked it up again...

Quote:

Always refer to vehicle owner's manual for what the manufacturer recommends or warns against. As a rule, vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS) should not use DOT 5 brake fluid.

DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based. DOT 3 (standard) and DOT 4 (heavy-duty) are glycol-based. It can be distinguished from conventional brake fluids by its purple color (which comes from a dye).

Silicone does not absorb moisture. DOT 5 brake fluid does not become contaminated with moisture over time as conventional DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids do. Silicone is also chemically inert, nontoxic and won't damage paint like conventional brake fluid. It also has a higher boiling point.

Because of this, it is often marketed as a premium "lifetime" brake fluid. It is often used to preserve brake systems in antique vehicles and those that sit for long periods of time between use.

DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is also very expensive (costing four to five times as much as ordinary brake fluid), and it won't mix with glyco- based brake fluid (creating concern over sludging if all old fluid isn't removed when a system is refilled with silicone).

Silicone also has slightly different physical properties and compressibility, making it unsuitable for ABS systems calibrated to work with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Z (Post 85526)

I thought I read a no-non about DOT 5 brake fluid, so I looked it up again...

to clarify.. the main princlples of dot 5 and dot 4 are different... i looked it up... we used ferodo DOT 5.1... it is a NOT a silicone based poduct like normal DOT 5.. here is a link to the product info AND is safe for Vettes and Ferodo DOT 5.1 is particularly suitable for vehicles equipped with ABS braking systems because of the short cycle time required.DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid, which has a dry boiling point higher than 500° F (260° C), is suitable for all disc and drum brake systems, except for those that require mineral oil.

It is especially suited for vehicles with antilock braking systems (ABS) because of the short cycle time required. DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid avoids the spongy brake pedal, air solubility and water incompatibility associated with silicone-based DOT 5 fluids. it also has a minimum 500F dry boiling point to withstand the severe heat requirements of performance street braking. it also has a 356F wet boiling point. This is much higher than the minimum 284F wet boiling point specified by most Do

http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-7...tch-fluid.aspx

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't want anyone getting themselves in trouble by making a mistake in fluid types.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Z (Post 85554)

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't want anyone getting themselves in trouble by making a mistake in fluid types.

:thumbsup:

i'm glad you caught me ...

thanks

Thanks for all the replies...I have had problems with my computer and could not get back on to post....So are we in aggrement that changing the Clutch fluid is a good place to start?...the other posts were referencing Brake fluid not Clutch fluid..

Thanks

Eddie

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knowles' Z06 (Post 85573)

id change them both... its a good practice

Thanks...I will order the clutch fluid....What yr is your Z06?.....When I modified my car I did the brakes already so I need to try the clutch fluid now and hope for the best:thumbsup:

Take care

Eddie

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knowles' Z06 (Post 85575)

Ive had an 03,(2)04's, 06 and now an 07'