Clutch Pedal Going limp
 

Can anyone explain why this weekend while at the SGMP drag strip my pedal would go limp...?

For the first time I used Mickey ETs drag Radials and they really seemed to hook nice 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to 3rd the pedal was on the floor board with in a second or so, it sprag back up...I have spoke n to some that say it was slipping from the heat and others that say it is a RPM and speed ratio issue...I wonder about the heat concept because itis not like I was drag racing all day there was at least 20-30 min usually longer before I was up again...Also it only happened here and there it seemed liike when I had a really good launch and the car was really sticking with a lot of pull....limp city

even though I have to figure this out I had a blast and put up a 11.395 at 127.8 mph not bad for a 1/4 mile with a limp pedal LOL:D

Eddie

When is the last time you changed your clutch hydraulic fluid?

If it happend at high RPM the centrifical force over powered the clutch springs. It might be time for a new clutch.

since my car has less than 5k miles I doubt I need to change the fluid yet...I really think it is a computer issue or something like that..

You might want to check the fluid anyway. If it looks like ink, then it may be a real good idea to change it.

I'll clue you,the computer is not in any way in control of the clutch! With that said,the fluid thing has more to do with the age than miles!!As RichZ said,you probly need to check it,there was a problem with the fluid gelling and turning to a Ink like sludge!!:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Also has to do with heat from track time.:peelout 1:

Common with the stock clutch. This has been a constant battle since the first Z06 in 2001. There is a self adjusting mechanism in the stock pressure plate. Centrifugally, it is fooled into a false self adjustment at high rpm speedy shifts. The first 2001 that did this got at least 5 clutches and hydraulic systems under warranty. This never solved the problem. As soon as the warranty was up, an aftermarket clutch was fitted and the problem never surfaced its ugly head! Fast forward to 2006, thought that that problem would have been rectified by GM. Nope, still has the self adjust built in. Not as prevalent as before, but still there. Bad news......ZR1 too! The real fact is this, GM has a warranty to honor. They do not want to buy transmissions and rearends so they put in a less than stellar clutch to be kind of a fuse in the system. Guess what is not covered in warranty? Wear items like brake pads and Clutches.

That was Mister MAN logged in as me AGAIN :D:lmao::lmao::lmao:

The cheapest and easiest solution to start with is by following Ranger's method as referenced in the link above. Also search ranger on the Corvette Forum.

This is a hotly debated topic and no one has been able to say exactly for sure the answer to the problem. Many have stated success with Ranger's method however some have not.

Point being, since it's relatively inexpensive, why not start there and then proceed to more expensive solutions.

Ranger's method has been tested at the track with data to back it up.

good Luck

If I may speak from experience... 5 times I replaced my clutch because of this exact issue... I can assure you that everytime we took out the clutch. It was fine. We replaced it ONLY because it was already out of the car. So back to your question ...why?? Well after a few trials and errors. Llamar walden racing in Atlanta found that thier was a issue with the DOT level that was in the system. I upgraded to dot 5 clutch fluid and no problem since. The lower dot fluid will heat and aspirate causing air to get in the lines and since it can't presurize air the same way it does fluid. The pedal goes limp. ANSWER .. dot 5 brake / clutch fluid. It's like Viagra for your clutch. It will keep your pedal up

I thought I read a no-non about DOT 5 brake fluid, so I looked it up again...

to clarify.. the main princlples of dot 5 and dot 4 are different... i looked it up... we used ferodo DOT 5.1... it is a NOT a silicone based poduct like normal DOT 5.. here is a link to the product info AND is safe for Vettes and Ferodo DOT 5.1 is particularly suitable for vehicles equipped with ABS braking systems because of the short cycle time required.DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid, which has a dry boiling point higher than 500° F (260° C), is suitable for all disc and drum brake systems, except for those that require mineral oil.

It is especially suited for vehicles with antilock braking systems (ABS) because of the short cycle time required. DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid avoids the spongy brake pedal, air solubility and water incompatibility associated with silicone-based DOT 5 fluids. it also has a minimum 500F dry boiling point to withstand the severe heat requirements of performance street braking. it also has a 356F wet boiling point. This is much higher than the minimum 284F wet boiling point specified by most Do


http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-7...tch-fluid.aspx

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't want anyone getting themselves in trouble by making a mistake in fluid types.

:thumbsup:

i'm glad you caught me ...

thanks

Thanks for all the replies...I have had problems with my computer and could not get back on to post....So are we in aggrement that changing the Clutch fluid is a good place to start?...the other posts were referencing Brake fluid not Clutch fluid..


Thanks

Eddie

id change them both... its a good practice

Thanks...I will order the clutch fluid....What yr is your Z06?.....When I modified my car I did the brakes already so I need to try the clutch fluid now and hope for the best:thumbsup:

Take care

Eddie

Ive had an 03,(2)04's, 06 and now an 07'

which yr gave you the clutch problem?

Eddie

my o4 and then my 07'.. those were the only two i built up and drove hard...

the other ones were garage queens

Just so you know, you use brake fluid in the clutch reservoir... Sorry, that probably wasn't evident in the discussion.

Rich,
Thanks I figured that after I kept reading...lol..I am real new to this

When I had my car modified they drained my breake fluid and did some duck work along with refillling it with Castrol SRF dot 5....would that be suitable to use in place of the Ferodo dot 5.1 they are both synthetic and since I have it in my brakes then I could keep enough around for both needs? Your thoughts

Eddie

i know you asked rich... but heres my .02.... yes that would be suitable...has it happened with that fluid in it?? if so has the fluid started to discolor? how long has it been in the car ?

Check the fluid. I have a C6/Z clutch in my C5 daily driver and have to change it every 10 days or so because of the miles I drive. 130k had it since new.

I think if you look @ the specs/manual: DOT 5 is NOT recomended for the clutch master/slave system. I just read this on corvetteforum and will try to find you a link.

I have been using the Castrol synthetic DOT 4 (3+) I think they call it. It is Syntec.

I change mine after I give the clutch some abuse, track days, 'spirited' street driving, etc. Cheap insurance and the Ranger method works wonders!

I ordered Castrol SRF DOT 4 Synthetic fluid to put in the car I will report what the outcome is after I run it hard..

Eddie

ABS
 

HELLO FRIEND HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY C5 PRENDE SE ME A MESSAGE TO YOUR COMPUTER every time you turn the car that ME DESIGN REVIEW AND ANTI LOK ABS SYSTEM THAT CAN BECOME TO ERASE

Can we have this in some kind of English??:shrug01::shrug01:
I can only speak English and American HillBilly!:D

Yeah, I read this earlier and thought the fumes from the epoxy in the garage had caused me some brain damage...... I was going to wait to see if it was only temporary.