Tuning basics
Ok, this will open things up for discussion and many questions. As far as your basic tuning with a predator, LS1 edit, HP tuners, etc. Big things to watch are going to be Fuel trims and timing. Datalogging is going to be the key here. This is where you will see the effects of your changes. You will look at LTFT's (long term fuel trims) looking for -4 area after about 50 miles of driving. Be careful with getting too aggressive with timing tables. Watch the logs for knock retard and adjust those areas accordingly. Most people will not have the one most vital tuning instrument, a wideband o2. This tool is instrumental in tuning for WOT. Many cars that we have seen are actually too lean in power enrichment as delivered from the factory. So, the best suggestion is get the car on the rollers or buy a wideband kit. Lean conditions are the greatest enemy to DIY tuning that I have seen. I am now ready for the questions.
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Actually I would like to know more about what a wideband O2 sensor actually does. And is it really only an effective tool for WOT tuning?
What about some tools I have seen that are basically sensors that you can attach at a tail pipe to get a reading? I assume the wideband O2 sensor replaces your regular O2 sensor, so is this an easy swap or what else needs to be done to accommodate it? Some guy I talked to a while back when I was getting my headers said he was getting some "bungs" (?) welded on, so I assume you can't just swap out your regular O2 sensor for a wideband. So clue me in, please. This is one of those basic concepts that I just haven't been able to find much on. Thanks. |
Will you guys offer the option of, for the lack of a better term.. "real world tuning" (driving the car with the laptop hooked up) or just strictly dyno tuning and also do you guys have any plans for a dyno tuning day in the near future as I can tell by reading alot of these threads many of these people have never had their car dynoed or tuned. Some people here would probably be surprised what a difference tuning makes on a "stock" vehicle.
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but you'll get a more accurate reading if its closer to the head, most recommend about 32" away from the head. you can weld another bung in the exhaust system. Personally in my other car, I just replaced the rear O2 sensor and use that bung for my wideband O2 sensor, send the wideband signal to the rear O2 imput on the pcm, so I can log wideband 02s instead rear 02 voltage. :thumbsup: |
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As far as a wideband o2, it tells you the absolute air fuel ratio in a real number i.e. 12.8,13.2, etc. If tuning with laptop software it becomes much easier to use an existing rear o2 bung, as you can simply turn off the rears. A good wideband system is an LM1 or LM2. Affordable and easy to operate. We have an LM2 for the shop portable unit. Primarily used for tuning open loop cars and speed density conversions. Otherwise, we simply use the dyno unit for pulls. Our personal cars have Dynojet wideband commanders mounted permanently inside. I always want to know my A/F ratio.
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Sounds awesome ,i have a handheld programer and i heard that you only get so much out of one of them :shrug01: .So sign me up for the dyno tuning went you are ready:thumbsup: BTW where is your location?
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Greg,
Why don't you put a thread in this forum and "sticky" it at the top telling us all about your shop and giving directions and contact info? Got any pics of the shop you could share with us? |
The dyno days are great but what you guys need to realize is Greg needs a firm commitment and by that I mean not a "yeah I am in" and then no show...I have set up a few of these and interest is always great initially but it seems to wane as the day gets closer...I personally said that next time I would collect $$$ up front next time so the shop gets paid even if you flake...I think thats fair.
This post is no reflection on anyone here...this is just a general statement |
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