VIDEO at Idle plus streetability and WOT with my 511rwhp / FTI
 

The idle completely stabe at 900rpm :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcRY0g2OHZM

The drivability, I start from a green light and I ended cruising in 6th gear at 1100rpm / 41mph :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL7h3QvOUFs

Just for the FUN, it was sunny today, temp was 77°, launched a Top Speed, my wife at the camera, we ended at 185 mph:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYhRh7XZ8Gw

The dyno sheet:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...YNOSESSION.jpg

Christian

Man, it sure didn't take you long to get to 185 mph!! :eek:

:welcome:

Kool first post!!

:welcome: SWEET!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Should show out the windshield at 185 mph!! That'd be crazy!

Thanks everyone,

this car is:
Quick
Kool
Sweet
Fast

I agree with you all, plus amazingly tame...

Christian

An update here, in another forum it was asked for the price list, here it is:

Regarding the labor for the Clutch and for the Headers it was executed during warranty operations at the dealership without extra charge...

J&J Performance LABOR :

- Head and Camshaft install----------------------------$1961.00
- Degree Cam / Check PtV Clearence--------------------$318.00
- Wire 90 LS2 TB---------------------------------------$159.00
- Rewire TB again to try fix problem----------------------$424.00
- Install New headers bolts------------------------------$106.00
- Change and install New Lifters---------------------------$53.00
- 2 Hours of dyno plus base line and WB------------------$397.50

TOTAL LABOR at J&J TAXES INCLUDED---------------$3842.50


COMPONENTS OF MY COMBO

HARLAND SHARP ROCKERS Rebuilt--------------$282.00
A&A Alternator Bracket------------------------$110.00
MELLING OIL PUMP Shipped--------------------$232.60
LUCAS INJECTORS-----------------------------$303.90
ADJUSTABLE TIMING CHAIN--------------------$208.80
KATECH ROD BOLTS---------------------------$163.60
SPECH II CLUTCH------------------------------$828.00
LG PRO Long Tube Headers--------------------$1823.85
FAST Intake and LS2 TB prepared--------------$1928.00
2 ETP 215 60cc from FTI-----------------------$2350.00
16 PS4 Valve Spring Upgraded-------------------$100.00
2 COMETIC Head Gasket------------------------$170.00
16 MOREL LIFTERS------------------------------$500.00
16 THREE PIECES PUSH RODS--------------------$185.00
ARP HEAD BOLTS--------------------------------$160.00
1 STREETSWEEPER CAMSHAFT-------------------$450.00

TOTAL PARTS SHIPPED TO MY HOUSE---------$9795.75

Christian

:welcome: ...Nice Vid's...Thanks for sharing.

Hello all,

An update from today for some of you that are asking about my future time at the drag strip.
As I am not going to race the car immediately here is the following:

As some members are asking me through PM questions on the shape of the power and torque curve of my engine, I am posting below an overlay from the day where I left the car to J&J (11/17/06) and the day where I had my car back (12/27/06).

The general consensus was that there was a probability to lose power down low, in the 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm range...and I was convinced that going to a bigger camshaft and increasing the overlap could only lead to that.
I was lucky with my combo, NO LOSS down low, matching in the zone and some little plus in term of power on the dyno.
The accelerations time are EXACTLY the same on the road between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm !!! (always monitered the same way of my usual process that most of you are aware of through HP Tuner)

The gain in power are after 4200 rpm but the HUGE GAIN in accelerations is between 4600 rpm and 7100 rpm, ~2 seconds on ~11 seconds....

EXACT ACCELERATION TIME 4 GEAR 100 mph to 153 mph 4600 rpm/7000 rpm:

11-16-06 SD 86 10.55am------:-----11.52sc
02-17-07 SD ETP 15 11.05am--:------9.57sc

May be those acceleration numbers are telling something to the specialist here around.
That is the process used by all the newspapers and racing journalist in Europe to compare the power car to car, no traction or grip parameters induce in the game.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ynocompare.jpg

Christian

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7/EPSN0074.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7/EPSN0077.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7/EPSN0079.jpg

A follow-up on the situation.

The Exo-Skel has been match balanced to the OEM ZO6 clutch assembly (12 grammes of correction on the outside circumference) and I am back on ZERO vibration as stock...the inconvenience I was feeling previously between 1800rpm/2200 rpm with the Spec is gone...

The first take off after install was simply horrible, chatter was really strong...
Ok for that and start the break-in process!!!

After two nights of driving in town only stop and start at red lights the pedal release became acceptable and manageable.
I decided to start beating on the clutch progressively with some soft launch always taking time to allow the clutch to cool down between each.
I went harder on the launch as the pedal release was getting more precise and predictable.
After a complete cool down I tried to start the car on a normal driving around town mode...Chatter was almost gone!!!

The bedding in process appears to be a long one with this assembly, the different materials seems just to need time to melt all together, which can be a guaranty of durability...my guess is that it is going to be a better feel and efficiency with the time and use...let me know if I am right?

The pedal travel is really short with all the OEM hydraulic, I am going to use a pedal travel stop/limiter, my thoughts are that pushing on the finger pressure plate all the way is not helping at all and anyway I don't need it to disengage a gear and have it engage smoothly and quickly, do you have any feed back on this?

The pedal stiffness is not "very" different from the one I had with the Spec (a slight more amount from stock) and my wife can (after breaking-in done) drive the car in the traffic without any concerns.

I am nicely surprised how silent this Exo-Skel is in Neutral.
When I push on the pedal and disengage the pressure plate and have the two discs plus the intermediate plate floating the noise is really low for a “race assembly”.

The remote bleeder mounted on the new slave is efficient and after the 3 first days of heat cycles and the first series of hot launches I decided to bleed my system, the OEM liquid had already turn black...which I guess is normal.
Do you have any advice about a nice and efficient clutch fluid to use?

On the tuning side I had to modify the Throttle Follower Decay (P/N) which indicates clearly that inertia is less with the Exo-Skel vs. the Spec Aluminum Flywheel…

Waiting on your comments.
Christian