• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

Am going to look at........

Kap142

Kap142

New member
Hey guys,

looking for feed back here. Am going to Deland to look at a 70 small block, 4 speed, A/C, PS. numbers matching coupe in Laguna Gray. Said to be no hit and in very good shape, as in no leaks or rust. Price is nego. She is said to always have been garage kept. Paint is new according to the seller.

I'm trying to attach a pic but am having durn little success.

Ken:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Anyone in the Deland area who...

has knowledge and would care to look at a C-3 with me on Friday maybe 3 PM or so?

:dancer01:
 
Where's Deland ?????

I'm gonna make a couple of suggestions here to you, if you want to listen that's ok, if not it's up to you. I have looked at many C2's and C3's in my time and there are a few things to look at. I reread you other thread and you said and I quote

"As to vehcile condition. I want either an excellent condition survivor or a fully restored vehicle. Equipment, numbers matching, A/C, and as many factory optiions as I can find on one car. Must be a 4 speed and engine would be nice if a big block but not a must. Paint, gotta be very, very good and factory color (same for interior) unless it happens to be a really fine looking alternate color."

Now in looking at the posted pics of this car and reading the info a couple of things came to mind.

A) Even if the car is 37 years old, if the car is documented the owner should be able to tell you if the mileage is true. From the way he worded the info I would have to say that the car is TMU, True Mileage Unknown. This will definately affect resale and the future people who might be interested in buying this car.

B) New paint, was it painted to hide bad paint or body damage ? I described to you before how these bodies are pieced together. If you look at the pic I posted you will see #7, that is a bonding strip. If you look inside the fenders and 1/4 panels you should see these. If you don't see these strips in all four wheelwells chances are the car has been hit and not repaired correctly.

12-11-2006_06_59_27PM.JPG


C) The engine has been bored thirty over, it has a new fan and fan clutch. Bored engines tend to run hotter, a new fan and clutch might indicate a cooling problem. You might want to check the radiator carefully. Get the car to operating temp then shut the motor off. Then take your hand and place it in the center of the radiator. It should be just as hot as the outer perimeter of the radiator. If it is cooler thats a sign that the radiator is clogged in the center. Naturally make sure the engine is off before you stick your hand in there.

D) Check the frame side rails carefully for rot. Fresh paint could indicate that the frame has been repaired.

E) I notice the ignition shielding is missing. The car also appears to be sitting high to me indicating suspension work more than just shocks. Check the tires for wear, four wheel alignments on these cars is a pain in the ass.

F) Now the numbers on the engine pad seem to indicate this is a numbers matching car, however these pads can be ground down and restamped. Just because these numbers match it is no guarentee that this is the original block. The only way to guarentee this is a numbers matching car is to research the casting numbers on the block located at the rear of the block near the bell housing. These are usually the last to be tampered with, they are seven digets and are raised not stamped.

I don't want to appear that I am projecting doom and gloom but you are looking to spend a lot of money and you want to be sure you don't get ripped off. Also make sure the headlamps and wiper door raise and lower easily. Just a few tips.

Jeff
 
now that's what I call knowledge

Thanks for the response Jeff. I have printed your response and will make inquiries that I never imagined. I will also look for indications I really hadn't thought of.

Sure you don't want to make a short road trip? I'll pick up the dinner tab.

Ken:wavey:
 
1st.jpg


12-12-_1_2_.jpg


31.jpg


Kap, Deland is about an hour and a half from me. It takes me about 40-45 minutes to get to Sea World fro my house. Rt 4, Friday afternoon, not much fun. That being said I will suggest this. You go look at the car, if it turns out this is the car for you let me know and I will come out there and check it out with you before you pull the trigger. I will PM you my phone number. I would also suggest that you try to get the car up on a lift to thoroughly check out the undercarriage. Let me know what you decide.
 
1970 Corvette Identification


VIN Tag Information
194370S400001 - 194370S417316 (coupe)
194670S400001 - 194670S417316 (convertible)
Digit Definition
1st Division: 1 = Chevrolet
2nd / 3rd Series: 94 = Corvette
4th/5th Body Style: 37 = 2-door coupe, 67 = 2-door convertible
6th Model Year: 0 = 1970
7th Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis, MO.
Last 6 digits Production Number starting with 400001 - 417316

Engine Suffix ID Numbers
CGW: 454ci, 390hp (automatic transmission)
CRJ: 454ci, 390hp (automatic transmission, transistor ignition)
CRI: 454ci, 390hp (manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTD: 350ci, 300hp (manual transmission)
CTG: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission)
CTH: 350ci, 350hp (manual transmission)
CTJ: 350ci, 350hp (air conditioning, manual transmission)
CTK: 350ci, 370hp (manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTL: 350ci, 300hp (manual transmission)
CTM: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission)
CTN: 350ci, 350hp (manual transmission)
CTO: 350ci, 350hp (air conditioning, manual transmission)
CTP: 350ci, 350hp (manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTQ: 350ci, 350hp (air conditioning, manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTR: 350ci, 370hp (manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTU: 350ci, 370hp (manual transmission, transistor ignition)
CTV: 350ci, 370hp (ZR1) (manual transmission)
CZU: 454ci, 390hp (manual transmission)
Note: Some early 1970 engines may have 1969 engine codes.

Block ID Numbers
3970010: 350ci, 300hp, 350hp, 370hp
3963512: 454ci, 390hp

Head ID Numbers
3927186: 350ci, 300hp, 350hp, 370hp
3927187: 350ci, 350hp
3964290: 454ci, 390hp
3973414: 350ci, 370hp
Cylinder Head Casting Number:
The cylinder head casting number is usually found on top of the cylinder head in between two valves and the rocker arm studs.

Cylinder Head Casting Date:
The cylinder head casting date is usually found adjacent to the cylinder head casting number. The casting date code is an alphanumeric sequenced number. The first digit is usually a letter which specifies the month that the block was cast. Some casting dates have been found with all digits being numbers, the first of which corresponds to the month.

Cylinder Head Casting Number Month Codes (1st Digit)
A - January E - May I - September
B - February F - June J - October
C - March G - July K - November
D - April H - August L - December

Two main plants were casting Chevrolet engine parts during 1970: Flint, Michigan and Tonawanda, New York.

Example: Flint Cylinder Head Casting Number - D 19 9


D: Month = April
19: Casting Day = 19th
9: Casting Year = 1959

Example: Tonawanda Cylinder Head Casting Number - D 19 59


D: Month = April
19: Casting Day = 19th
59: Casting Year = 1959


Carburetor ID Numbers
Rochester Q-jet #7040202: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission, first design)
Rochester Q-jet #7040203: 350ci, 300hp (manual transmission, first design)
Rochester Q-jet #7040204: 454ci, 390hp (automatic transmission)
Rochester Q-jet #7040205: 454ci, 390hp (manual transmission)
Rochester Q-jet #7040207: 350ci, 350hp (manual transmission)
Rochester Q-jet #7040212: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission, second design)
Rochester Q-jet #7040213: 350ci, 300hp (manual transmission, second design)
Rochester Q-jet #7040502: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission, evaporative emission controls)
Rochester Q-jet #7040503: 350ci, 300hp (automatic transmission, evaporative emission controls, first design)
Rochester Q-jet #7040504: 454ci, 390hp (automatic transmission, evaporative emission controls)
Rochester Q-jet #7040505: 454ci, 390hp (manual transmission, evaporative emission controls)
Rochester Q-jet #7040507: 350ci, 350hp (manual transmission, evaporative emission controls)
Rochester Q-jet #7040513: 350ci, 300hp (manual transmission, evaporative emission controls, second design)
Holley R4489A #3972123: 350ci, 370hp (manual transmission, evaporative emission controls)
Holley R4555A #3972121: 350ci, 370hp (manual transmission)

Distributor ID Numbers
1111464: 454ci, 390hp
1111490: 350ci, 300hp (early production)
1111491: 350ci, 370hp (transistor ignition)
1111493: 350ci, 350hp (early production)
1112020: 350ci, 300hp (transistor ignition)
1112021: 350ci, 350hp

Alternator ID Numbers
1100884: 350ci, 370hp (or all air conditioning)
1100900: 350ci - 350h, 454ci - 390hp
1100901: 350ci, 300hp

The Trim Tag is located on the driver's door jamb below the windshield pillar post. This contains factory ordered color and trim options. Please read the codes carefully.
 
Hey Nitro....

Can you tell me the two books you suggested ref vettes and originality and condition. I can't seem to find that tread?

Oh and after a trip to Deland and a close inspection I think I'll opt to let that one stay in Deland. Nice car but a collective group of smaller things that I don't want to deal with. She was just not the one I'm looking for.

Thanks,

Ken :dancer01: :dancer01:
 
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