In reference to this topic, I think I learned a tip about determining whether or not you got a reasonably good driveability tune on your car. Disconnect the battery. Let it set for a little while, then hook it back up again. Start your car. If it idles rough as hell and then straightens itself out when it warms up, your tuner didn't really tackle the air fuel ratios properly in the relevant tables of your PCM. What is going on is that the AFRs are actually screwed up, but your short term and long term fuel trims are compensating for the bad tune. Quite likely he didn't disable the trims while doing the tune at all, nor look at the logs to monitor what the trims were doing. The fuel trims are designed to make modest modifications to the AFR to compensate for environmental factors that will change throughout the seasons, elevation, and wear of engine components, not be a bandaid for the air fuel ratio being way out of whack.
When you disconnect the battery, you reset all the fuel trims to zero, so when you then start your car, it is running off of the table values that provide the actual AFR until the widebands begin to operate to provide feedback for those fuel trim values to try to get an optimum burn ratio.
Your car SHOULD start up and run fine, just like a stock car should right off the bat after the battery has been disconnected. If it doesn't them something is wrong in the tune.
After Chris Harwood tuned my car, I noticed that exact situation whenever I disconnected my battery, but really didn't know what it meant.
Of course, this is completely my opinion, and subject to change if I learn new facts that make me think otherwise.....
