Plugs and Wires etc.......

SILVER50TH · 06-12-2007, 06:43 PM

I have a stock 03 C5, I want to go ahead and replace the plugs and wires. I am thinking about the NGK's. What wires should I get with these. Is there anything else I should replace while doing this?

chris308 · 06-12-2007, 06:55 PM

I'm replacing my wires when i do my headers with GMPP Red wires. Got them already just waiting for the weekend if it doesn't rain on me.

"Backyard Mechanic" · 06-12-2007, 07:00 PM

When is the last time you changed your air filter or cleaned it?Becareful with NGK's,they are HOT plugs.You don't really need hot plugs in that motor,I would stick with a colder plugs.While your down there,when is the last time you cleaned out the raditor area?Check tire pressure,I mean by the tire not the using the gauges.Let's see what else,Oh last time you check all your fluid levels?Is this helping or I'm just annoying you.

Not sure what info you were looking for.

SILVER50TH · 06-12-2007, 08:21 PM

I read that the NGK 55 is a colder NGK Plug. I thought about Bosch, but my friends with Z06's dont think much of them.

"Backyard Mechanic" · 06-12-2007, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SILVER50TH

I read that the NGK 55 is a colder NGK Plug. I thought about Bosch, but my friends with Z06's dont think much of them.

Which one were thinking of using,v-power,g-power or the Iridium IX?I have used the G-power one's in my 454 big block,But what ever one you use make sure you torque them down to man. specs.I have used Bosch also,I also did'nt like them.

**Rich Z** · 06-13-2007, 12:47 AM

Back when I had my headers installed, I had the ignition wires replaced with the MSD 8.5 wires. Also had the plugs replaced with the E3 brand, based on reviews I read. However, when I got the STS kit, it came with a colder set of NGK plugs that replaced the E3s. I liked the design of the E3 plugs and the reviews I read seemed all positive, so maybe some day I will get a colder set of them and put them in.

As for the wires, I guess they are so short that there really isn't going to be that much difference from one brand to the next. As long as enough spark gets to the plug to have complete ignition, there really isn't anything more you can do to improve things. If the ignition for each cylinder reliably fires each cylinder when it is supposed to fire, and combustion is as complete as it can be, there is nothing more to improve upon with those components.

The E3 plug design just seemed to me to make sense for more efficient combustion in the cylinder. As to whether or not it actually did that, well it beats me. Unless you have ignition failures, I doubt there is really much you could determine in seat of the pants improvements.

As for ignition wires, a solid copper or silver wire with an insulator wrapped around it is the best you can do. However, with all the electronics under the hood, RF suppressive wires are probably a good idea to keep those radio frequencies from screwing up something with interference. I can remember in the old days putting solid copper core wires on my GTO and screwing up radios on cars all around me...

Not a chance I could listen to mine at all....

98 softtail · 06-13-2007, 10:29 PM

I recently replaced the plug wires on Deb's '01 with 8.5 MSD's, I gave a thought to the Taylor 10mm wires but they are a cut to fit type and I am LAZY. A word of caution here, if you decide to replace your plugs, make sure you have the new plugwires on hand as the old wires tend to seperate at the plugboot when removing them from the plugs, out of 8 wires, I had 5 that separated. Good thing I was replacing them anyway, I would have been quite cranky otherwise. When putting on your new plugwires, use some dielectric grease,(silicone lube) on the inside of the boots and on the outside of the plug insulator, try not to get any on the tip of the plug. This will help seal out moisture and allow for an easier removal of the plugwire in the future. Be sparing with it tho, a little does the job.

Joe B.

**Rich Z** · 06-14-2007, 02:24 AM

You know, this got me to thinkin....

I thought I read that it is recommended that you put dielectric grease on the threads of the spark plugs when you screw them into the heads. Well since the dielectric grease is actually an insulator, is this wise to do? If the plugs aren't suitable grounded via those threads, won't that affect the spark? The whole purpose of the spark plug is to have a hot spark arc across the hot central electrode of the plug to the side electrode above it, igniting the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. So if the sparkplug itself is somewhat insulated from the head itself, the spark will not be as vigorous as it could be.

Maybe that dielectric grease isn't enough to make a difference, but I think perhaps a CONDUCTING grease of some sort might be better for that particular application.

Nytro · 06-14-2007, 06:43 AM

I'm not so sure I would use dielectric grease on the threads, I would use Anti-Seize compound on the threads to prevent the plugs from seizing up in the plug holes. Anti-Seize compound is an excellent lube to prevent seizing in aluminum parts. My wife use to have a 4-Runner and they were famous for the aluminum wheels seizing to the hubs on the rotors, then in the middle of the night when you would get a flat you couldn't get the wheels off without the help of a big hammer. I use to have all my tech lube the wheels on all services to prevent this.

**Rich Z** · 06-14-2007, 12:58 PM

Surprisingly enough, it appears that many people believe that "dielectric" means that it is a CONDUCTOR of electricity. There are quite a few posts on many forums where it is evident that people believe this is the case. Some claim to put dielectric grease on contacts and electrical connections.

And to be perfectly honest, I was under that impression myself simply from reading such posts and not really looking into what the word "dielectric" REALLY means.