• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

Clutch Pedal Going limp

Knowles' Z06

Knowles' Z06

New member
Can anyone explain why this weekend while at the SGMP drag strip my pedal would go limp...?

For the first time I used Mickey ETs drag Radials and they really seemed to hook nice 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to 3rd the pedal was on the floor board with in a second or so, it sprag back up...I have spoke n to some that say it was slipping from the heat and others that say it is a RPM and speed ratio issue...I wonder about the heat concept because itis not like I was drag racing all day there was at least 20-30 min usually longer before I was up again...Also it only happened here and there it seemed liike when I had a really good launch and the car was really sticking with a lot of pull....limp city

even though I have to figure this out I had a blast and put up a 11.395 at 127.8 mph not bad for a 1/4 mile with a limp pedal LOL:D

Eddie
 
since my car has less than 5k miles I doubt I need to change the fluid yet...I really think it is a computer issue or something like that..
 
You might want to check the fluid anyway. If it looks like ink, then it may be a real good idea to change it.
 
Knowles' Z06 said:
since my car has less than 5k miles I doubt I need to change the fluid yet...I really think it is a computer issue or something like that..
Click to expand...
I'll clue you,the computer is not in any way in control of the clutch! With that said,the fluid thing has more to do with the age than miles!!As RichZ said,you probly need to check it,there was a problem with the fluid gelling and turning to a Ink like sludge!!:thumbsup:
 
Common with the stock clutch. This has been a constant battle since the first Z06 in 2001. There is a self adjusting mechanism in the stock pressure plate. Centrifugally, it is fooled into a false self adjustment at high rpm speedy shifts. The first 2001 that did this got at least 5 clutches and hydraulic systems under warranty. This never solved the problem. As soon as the warranty was up, an aftermarket clutch was fitted and the problem never surfaced its ugly head! Fast forward to 2006, thought that that problem would have been rectified by GM. Nope, still has the self adjust built in. Not as prevalent as before, but still there. Bad news......ZR1 too! The real fact is this, GM has a warranty to honor. They do not want to buy transmissions and rearends so they put in a less than stellar clutch to be kind of a fuse in the system. Guess what is not covered in warranty? Wear items like brake pads and Clutches.
 
The cheapest and easiest solution to start with is by following Ranger's method as referenced in the link above. Also search ranger on the Corvette Forum.

This is a hotly debated topic and no one has been able to say exactly for sure the answer to the problem. Many have stated success with Ranger's method however some have not.

Point being, since it's relatively inexpensive, why not start there and then proceed to more expensive solutions.

Ranger's method has been tested at the track with data to back it up.

good Luck
 
If I may speak from experience... 5 times I replaced my clutch because of this exact issue... I can assure you that everytime we took out the clutch. It was fine. We replaced it ONLY because it was already out of the car. So back to your question ...why?? Well after a few trials and errors. Llamar walden racing in Atlanta found that thier was a issue with the DOT level that was in the system. I upgraded to dot 5 clutch fluid and no problem since. The lower dot fluid will heat and aspirate causing air to get in the lines and since it can't presurize air the same way it does fluid. The pedal goes limp. ANSWER .. dot 5 brake / clutch fluid. It's like Viagra for your clutch. It will keep your pedal up


Knowles' Z06 said:
Can anyone explain why this weekend while at the SGMP drag strip my pedal would go limp...?

For the first time I used Mickey ETs drag Radials and they really seemed to hook nice 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to 3rd the pedal was on the floor board with in a second or so, it sprag back up...I have spoke n to some that say it was slipping from the heat and others that say it is a RPM and speed ratio issue...I wonder about the heat concept because itis not like I was drag racing all day there was at least 20-30 min usually longer before I was up again...Also it only happened here and there it seemed liike when I had a really good launch and the car was really sticking with a lot of pull....limp city

even though I have to figure this out I had a blast and put up a 11.395 at 127.8 mph not bad for a 1/4 mile with a limp pedal LOL:D

Eddie
Click to expand...
 
I thought I read a no-non about DOT 5 brake fluid, so I looked it up again...

Always refer to vehicle owner's manual for what the manufacturer recommends or warns against. As a rule, vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS) should not use DOT 5 brake fluid.

DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based. DOT 3 (standard) and DOT 4 (heavy-duty) are glycol-based. It can be distinguished from conventional brake fluids by its purple color (which comes from a dye).

Silicone does not absorb moisture. DOT 5 brake fluid does not become contaminated with moisture over time as conventional DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids do. Silicone is also chemically inert, nontoxic and won't damage paint like conventional brake fluid. It also has a higher boiling point.

Because of this, it is often marketed as a premium "lifetime" brake fluid. It is often used to preserve brake systems in antique vehicles and those that sit for long periods of time between use.

DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is also very expensive (costing four to five times as much as ordinary brake fluid), and it won't mix with glyco- based brake fluid (creating concern over sludging if all old fluid isn't removed when a system is refilled with silicone).

Silicone also has slightly different physical properties and compressibility, making it unsuitable for ABS systems calibrated to work with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
Click to expand...
 
Rich Z said:
I thought I read a no-non about DOT 5 brake fluid, so I looked it up again...
Click to expand...

to clarify.. the main princlples of dot 5 and dot 4 are different... i looked it up... we used ferodo DOT 5.1... it is a NOT a silicone based poduct like normal DOT 5.. here is a link to the product info AND is safe for Vettes and Ferodo DOT 5.1 is particularly suitable for vehicles equipped with ABS braking systems because of the short cycle time required.DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid, which has a dry boiling point higher than 500° F (260° C), is suitable for all disc and drum brake systems, except for those that require mineral oil.

It is especially suited for vehicles with antilock braking systems (ABS) because of the short cycle time required. DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid avoids the spongy brake pedal, air solubility and water incompatibility associated with silicone-based DOT 5 fluids. it also has a minimum 500F dry boiling point to withstand the severe heat requirements of performance street braking. it also has a 356F wet boiling point. This is much higher than the minimum 284F wet boiling point specified by most Do


http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-72-ferodo-dot-51-brake-and-clutch-fluid.aspx
 
Thanks for the clarification. I didn't want anyone getting themselves in trouble by making a mistake in fluid types.
 
Thanks for all the replies...I have had problems with my computer and could not get back on to post....So are we in aggrement that changing the Clutch fluid is a good place to start?...the other posts were referencing Brake fluid not Clutch fluid..


Thanks

Eddie
 
Knowles' Z06 said:
Thanks for all the replies...I have had problems with my computer and could not get back on to post....So are we in aggrement that changing the Clutch fluid is a good place to start?...the other posts were referencing Brake fluid not Clutch fluid..


Thanks

Eddie
Click to expand...

id change them both... its a good practice
 
Thanks...I will order the clutch fluid....What yr is your Z06?.....When I modified my car I did the brakes already so I need to try the clutch fluid now and hope for the best:thumbsup:

Take care

Eddie
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top