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Maintenance, Mods, & Tips Mods | Tips | Repairs & Troubleshooting

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Unread 09-24-2010, 10:55 PM   #501
Benjamin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob K View Post
Damn, I've never heard of doing that. Good info Dan and I see Tracy posting also. I wonder what pulling the spark plugs has to do with priming the oil pump? I understand after reading what Tracy posted about the fuel pump relay.
pulling the plugs allows the pistons to move freely and not build up any cylinder pressure therefore allowing the motor to free spin. this helps eliminate any excess force on any metal to metal surfaces, like rod bearings, until oil is pumped throughout the oiling system.

i know of small block Fords that you can take a drill with a socket, remove the distributor and actually turn the oil pump with the drill to fill all the oil passages / prime the oiling system before attempting to turn the motor over with the starter for the first time.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 12:49 AM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatbum View Post
To prime the pump you have to remove the spark plugs, remove the fuel relay fuse and unclip the coil pack wiring, then turn the car over for 30 seconds, wait 5 minutes then do it again. Adding oil to the filter is a good bet as well.

I doubt Chris did all that work....
I know that Chris (or more accurately, Justin) removed the relay fuse to the fuel pump and unplugged the coil packs, but I honestly cannot remember whether the spark plugs were in place or not. I may have been taking video at that time, so when I get a chance, I'll see if I can find that section of video.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 03:33 AM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Z View Post
I know that Chris (or more accurately, Justin) removed the relay fuse to the fuel pump and unplugged the coil packs, but I honestly cannot remember whether the spark plugs were in place or not. I may have been taking video at that time, so when I get a chance, I'll see if I can find that section of video.
Not removing the spark plugs puts more wear and stress on the rods/valvetrain etc etc because it can't release the compressed air properly.

I hope your issue is as easy as priming it that simple way, and not something else.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 11:32 AM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benjamin View Post
pulling the plugs allows the pistons to move freely and not build up any cylinder pressure therefore allowing the motor to free spin. this helps eliminate any excess force on any metal to metal surfaces, like rod bearings, until oil is pumped throughout the oiling system.

i know of small block Fords that you can take a drill with a socket, remove the distributor and actually turn the oil pump with the drill to fill all the oil passages / prime the oiling system before attempting to turn the motor over with the starter for the first time.
Thanks Benjamin.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 02:49 AM   #505
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Here's the latest video I took of the tune being done to get the idle stable at South Georgia Corvette:

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Unread 09-26-2010, 12:50 PM   #506
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Sounds great Rich hope you have it back soon.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 03:00 PM   #507
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That thing sounds BAD-A$$
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Unread 09-27-2010, 03:15 PM   #508
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Sweet sound. Looks good when it is reved up all the pipes are clean without any signs of blue or black smoke and it has a nice crisp note for each cylinder. Beautiful.
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Unread 09-27-2010, 05:40 PM   #509
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Went up to Thomasville to see them still working on the tune for my car. Apparently there is something wrong in the wiring (possibly) that is making one of the O2 sensors ground out and cause the CPU to try to enrich the fuel to compensate. So the one back starts running REAL rich. They are going to bypass this problem for the time being by forcing the AFR to run in open loop. Once other issues get straightened out, then they will troubleshoot the problem so the car can run in closed loop. Still hearing a chattering from the rocker arm area. Sounds louder on the driver's side. Not sure what that is at this point. Do MSD coil packs make noise? It almost sounds like an ignition spark noise to me.
I just spoke to Aaron a few minutes ago and he said he found an O2 extension cable wire that was pinched at the bell housing, shorting it out, causing the problem mentioned above. So one issue down.

He put a stethoscope to the engine to try to figure out where that tapping is coming from and he said it appears to be at the #5 or #7 rocker arm. The rest of the engine sounds OK. He'll be pulling off the valve cover to check valve lash and just see what he can see. Both valve covers have to come off anyway to check on them leaking oil.

Hopefully this will be coming to a close shortly...
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Unread 09-27-2010, 05:42 PM   #510
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Sounds like Aaron knows his stuff!
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