[C5] Fuse block/junction box???????

[Kap142]

OK my friends I need help in finding the correct name for what I'm about to describe, I'll try to explain. This is in reference to 12V auto system (not and inverter from 120V).

What I wish to do for a parade next Christmas is to use several LED auto lights on my C5. Seeing that several low amp lights will be tied together I am in search of a unit (non fused) that will have one power and one ground wire and then a set of gang block type terminals that lights can be attached to to draw power (a positive side and a ground side). I think that makes sense. My problem being a non electronics dude is I have no bloomin idea what this thing is properly called. Can anyone assist? Micro sized or darn small is what I seek. Once I know what it's called I can do a search.

No guys I am not "pimpin my ride" just planning ahead as I am prone to do.

[Cor66Vette]

There may be a specialty device made for the application you mention but I know it can be done with terminal blocks. That doesn't answer your query I know. Sorry can't be of better help.

[Kap142]

No worries RRR maybe someone has done this or done a similar search and will come through or their is always Radio Shack but they seem to know a whole lot more about phones then electronics anymore.

[Rich Z]

Sorry, Ken, but I can't visualize what you want to do. Power needed inside or outside of the car? Power on only when ignition is on? Where would you prefer having the terminal block located? How many connections do you need?

BTW, if you are not tying this into a circuit already on a fuse, I would recommend using a fuse in the circuit. Otherwise if a short does happen, the wiring insulation will melt, and the wire itself getting hot enough to melt through and burn anything it touches. Anything flammable touching it, and POOF, you've got a fire. Much better to just pop a fuse.

Depending on what exactly you are trying to do, a 110 AC inverter using the cigarette lighter would allow you to simply use Christmas style lights that would plug into a single AC receptacle or even a power strip. Since this sounds like a transient event you are planning on, I would shoot for the simplest solution possible that will meet your needs. Cutting and splicing into the wiring of these cars might introduce electrical gremlins.

[navy2kcoupe]

How many drops are you going to need from the terminal block?
LED's N-E-E-D resistors in series with them to limit the current. If you're just
gonna buy a handful of bare LEDs, you're gonna need resistors to go with them.
If you just plunk the bare LEDs across 12 volts, since they're polarity sensitive,
one way will not light, and the other way will light up like a flashbulb! One shot
and it's toast. If you're planning on having the LEDs ON with the engine OFF,
I would NOT use an inverter. They draw a bit of current, and you might find
yourself with a dead battery at the end of the night. The inverter that I use
for work in my car, will not even power on unless the engine is running. It's
designed to sense the battery voltage, and if it's NOT 13.5V or higher, it will
NOT power up. Send me a PM with you're email address, and I'll be more than
glad to give you a hand, as well as some education, off line. I'll even give you
my cell number in case you run into any problems. Together, the both of us
SHOULD be able to get you squared away with what you want to do!
Andy
Google "terminal block" and see if you find anything that you like.......

[Kap142]

OK I'll try to start from the beginning. Power source is a fully charged "jump start". On this particular jump start their are two cigarette type plug ins. These are where my power comes from for all the LED's. Each cigarette plug is fused so I think the fusing is taken care of. The wiring (which is very temporary) simply runs out under the doors and to the various LED strips. Wires are painters tape secured to the/or under the vehicle away from heat sources. Each plugged circuit powers maybe four LED strips or so.

This past Christmas I used this basic set up with no additional resistors and all lighting burned wonderfully brightly for the duration of the event.

I am planning on adding several LED strips and thought that having a junction of some nature would be easier to connect lights to a single power source.

I understand the positive polarity issue and great care has kept me out of trouble (so far).

What my (demented) brain sees is a device that has two wires going in that eventually go back to a power plug for the jump start. On the other end of those wires would be something similar to a fuse block which allows me to wire in a positive and (on the opposite side) a negative from each light. Hopefully allowing me to tie in maybe 4 to 6 LED lights.

I have no knowledge of resisters so please help me out here. All I know is that I had a total of 8 assorted strips kinda-sorta wired in this year and all worked properly.

I'm sure I'll do another reply shortly to answer other questions I have fail to answer in this one.

Thanks guys.

[Rich Z]

LED strips (if you are using what I think you are using) already have resistor values built into the wiring, so you don't need any external resistors. What Andy is referring to is a bare LED with two wires hanging off of it that you would buy from Radio Shack. But just to be sure, maybe you could take a picture of thes LED strips you are referring to so we are all on the same page.

[navy2kcoupe]

If Ken has already had them up and running by just connecting the wires, then
the strips already have the resistors built in. With what he's describing, this
shouldn't be toooooooo hard.............. The strips you buy online are plug and
play unless otherwise stated, so it looks like Ken is just looking for a way to
get all of the strips connected and disconnected easily and quickly. I LIKE the
use of a "jump start" as the power source! I would have never thought about
using one of those...........
Andy

[Kap142]

Spot on Andy.