Well, I got the new pipes from LGM and also got new flange gaskets. Heck, ordered new 3 inch clamps while I was at it.
So I replaced the pipes and I still had a slight leak on the driver's side flange, so I just slid another gasket there. Not sure what the problem actually is, but this is just going to have to do for now.
But then I found that the slip joint on that driver's side was leaking pretty badly now too.
I checked around for the best way to test for exhaust leaks, and seems like using just regular old soapy water seemed to be the best. I didn't want to run the engine while doing this, so I decided to put the hose onto the exhaust port of my shop vac and then taped that up into one of the tail pipes. Cut cardboard to cover the exhaust pipes and taped them all up tight with gaffers tape. I stuck the extension tube for the vac into the hole for the hose so it would be an easy matter of just plugging the vacuum hose into that instead of taping it into the tail pipe.
I think a LOT of the problem with the new leaks is because LGM apparently changed the way they make those pipes. The cut a few slits at the ends to help them go on easier, and the old way was probably a WHOLE lot better for keeping them from leaking.
OLD WAY:
NEW WAY:
The new way is just a cheaply done job of cutting slits into the pipe ends, whereas the old way would help seal off the end when the clamps were tightened down. "New and improved" I guess...
In any event, I was just getting tired of dealing with these leaks, so I pulled the clamps off and just smeared the gaps with permatex high temp sealant. There is still a very VERY slight leak on that driver's side, but heck, I'll deal with it the next time I have to pull the exhaust off. I took it out for a drive before the sealant and the turbos were able to go into boost just fine, so this will just have to do for now.