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Maintenance, Mods, & Tips Mods | Tips | Repairs & Troubleshooting

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Unread 04-30-2006, 01:55 AM   #1
Rich Z
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Default [TIP] Resetting The Oil Life Monitor

Resetting The Oil Life Monitor
  1. Turn ignition on, but do not start the engine.
  2. Press "Reset" button to clear any messages showing on the DIC.
  3. Press "Trip" button until the "Oil Life Remaining XX%" is showing up.
  4. Press and hold the "Reset" button until it resets.
  5. Turn ignition off.

The next time you turn the car on the Oil Life Monitor will be at 100% and will shortly change to 99%.
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Unread 04-30-2006, 09:56 AM   #2
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does key on, engine off
pump pedal "3 times in 5 seconds"
does that work also? I havent tried it on my car yet, but it a GM thing
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Unread 04-30-2006, 11:08 AM   #3
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Changed my oil a couple of times already. Getting ready to do it again soon. Do you do it every 3 months/ 3000 miles? Or wait for the percentage to get down close to 0? GM says what, like 15000 miles. The gauge is based on driving habits. I do mine appox. every 6 months.
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Unread 04-30-2006, 12:04 PM   #4
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I havent changed my oil yet. but I'll probably take it to 3500-4k since its mobil 1.
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Unread 04-30-2006, 12:27 PM   #5
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Actually, except for a hit on your wallet, I have never heard of any drawback associated with changing your oil too often. I think if you see darkened oil on the dipstick, it is time to change it. Let's look at it this way, if you were BUYING your car and looked at the dipstick to check the condition of the oil, what would you like to see? Oil the same color as it looks right out of the bottle, or some dark chocolate syrup looking stuff?

Speaking of which, do any of you use oil additives? Super lubricants and stuff like that? I've used a product called "Prolong" for quite a while on all of my vehicles and although I can't claim it has helped them any, I do know I have NEVER had a wear related problem on a lubricated part in any motor.
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Unread 05-01-2006, 01:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourG63 97GST
does key on, engine off
pump pedal "3 times in 5 seconds"
does that work also? I havent tried it on my car yet, but it a GM thing
That works...

Jack
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Unread 05-01-2006, 01:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Z

Speaking of which, do any of you use oil additives? Super lubricants and stuff like that?
No need with Mobil 1 or a similar synthethic oils. Not like the old days of running regular 10-40 or 20-50 racing oil blends, that broke down real fast.

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Unread 05-01-2006, 07:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Speaking of which, do any of you use oil additives?
Nope, seems synthetics are about as good as it gets. I change mine anytime after 50% oil life remaining. Oil always shows some color by then. I do have magnetic plugs in the tranny, diff. and oil pan, as well as a magnet on the oil filter. Trying to catch any metal filings that get in solution.
I do use a select few premium gases such as Chevron, Mobile, and BP, and about every six months run a bottle of Tectron though the fuel tank.
http://www.toptiergas.com/

http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...ls/techrongas/
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Last edited by exile; 05-01-2006 at 11:04 AM.
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Unread 05-01-2006, 10:41 AM   #9
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How much metal do you typically get on those magnetic pickups? I thought about getting a magnetic plug for the oil pan, but realistically where exactly would magnetic shavings or filings come from? Is the bearing material for the crank and rods magnetic? From what I recall from when I rebuilt the engine in my GTO years ago, it looked like some sort of brass or copper derivative. So that leaves the piston rings and piston sleeves in the block. The sleeves are steel, but not sure about the piston rings.

If I had a brand new engine going through a break-in period, then yes I might think I would see some metal shavings in the fluids, but with 62K miles on my motor, and using proper lubricants, I think this shouldn't be an issue. But having never used a magnetic plug before, I just don't know if they are really worthwhile.
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