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Unread 06-06-2006, 09:28 PM   #21
Rich Z
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OK, dumb question time.........

Now I would think it logical to assume that if I only had one torque wrench, and let's say it is an inch/lb model. But the specs I see on a bolt is in ft/lbs. Can I safely assume that something like 120 inch/lbs is the same as 10 ft/lbs? Or is that just too simple?
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Unread 06-15-2006, 08:43 AM   #22
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RichZ, you are correct on inches / ft. lbs. however, most inch pound wrenches only achieve about 25 ft. lbs. Most 3/8" torque wrenches achieve about 75 ft. lbs. and 1/2" wrenches typically reach 150 ft. lbs. or more. I teach diesel mechanics for a living and the use of torque wrenches are critical when optimum component security & Saftey are desired. When a torque is specified, the two materials being secured (plastic / metal / aluminium) and the bolt/nut material are taken into consideration. Sealing compounds such as teflon or oil/grease should not be used unless specified as these lubricants can greatly change the actual compression of the parts as well as the "streatch" of the bolt. Sears tools are fine for the average garage mechanic as long as they are treated like your "Significant Others" most precious jewelery. If dropped or pulled well beyond the "click" setting or stored for periods of time with more than 10% adjustment, the calibration will be compromised. An adaptor can be purchased to connect two wrenches together where they can both be set at the same rate and pulled against each other to "verify" general accuracy.
Case and Point >
I had an irritating "ticking" noise coming from my LF wheel when turning in and out of my garage, after pulling my hair out, I discovered that the wheel was torqued at about 130 lbs. and was putting undo stress on the aluminum mounting points of the wheel. By resetting it to 100 lbs. the stress was corrected and the ticking was eliminated.
Hope this helps all who don't have wrenches decide that even a minimal investment (sears) in the long run will help eliminate squeaks, unwanted movement and even potential broken fittings (JMHO).
Chuck.
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Unread 06-15-2006, 12:37 PM   #23
Rich Z
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Well I did pick up a 3/8ths ft/lb torque wrench a week or so ago. I think it was Husky brand. Price was around the same as for Craftsman. I'll tell you though, it's pretty darn tough finding "Made in America" on any of this stuff nowadays.......
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Unread 06-21-2006, 11:23 PM   #24
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I often use both a ft./lb. and in/pound torque wrench. They are both Crafstman and both are the clicking type so if you're doing something heavier, like cylinder heads, you don't have to be staring at the dial. Just reset them to no more than 10 lbs. before putting away.
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Unread 07-10-2006, 07:11 PM   #25
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I bought my torque wrench (Craftsman) the day after I stripped out a hole in an aluminum head. If you ever break a bolt off, you will wish you had one too. Those two events alone sure made the price of the torque wrench seem cheap in comparison. Now I don't guess anymore about what should be what, I go by the book and sleep better at night.





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