CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT

[SteveGel]

Removing

1:Remove the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the accessory drive belt.
4:Remove the accessory drive belt from the pulleys and tensioner.
5:Slowly release tension on the drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of all the pulleys.
Installation Procedure



Installing

1:Route the accessory drive belt around all the pulleys except the water pump pulley and tensioner.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt tensioner.
4:Install the accessory drive belt under the water pump pulley.
5:Install the accessory drive belt onto the drive belt tensioner.
Slowly release the tension.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Install the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
8:Inspect the accessory drive belt for correct alignment.

[Rich Z]

Thanks for the diagram, but from what I can remember, my belt system doesn't look anything at all like that. Matter of fact, I thought the a/c compressor has it's own separate belt. So am I just looking at it cockeyed or something?

[SteveGel]

how about this one and the one above your post?

Drive Belt Replacement - Air Conditioning



1:Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory .
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the A/C drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt.
4:Remove the A/C drive belt from the pulleys.
5:Slowly release tension on the A/C drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the A/C drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of the pulleys.

[Rich Z]

Yeah! That looks more like it! I read this in the maintenance manual, but I guess it's that "breaker bar" think that worried me. That implies "oomph" to loosen that bolt up. My knuckles are cringing already. They remember the automotive stuff I did when I was younger...........

Thanks.

[Yellow]

Rich Z
I hate to hear of your troubles, but I know this problem all too well .

The dealers and I have been tracking the "CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT" error in my Vette since August 02 .
I have changed alternators, batteries, several connectors etc., and still no success. I still get this message. Last time was about 2 weeks ago. I have come to the realization that it will always show up. To my knowledge it has never caused a problem it just drives me nuts .

The one bright side of this story is GM gave me a free extended warranty for this problem and several other constant problems with my Vette .

[Rich Z]

Well actually that FAULT error has apparently gone away after the vette tech who installed my headers tightened up that ground screw on the alternator he forgot to tighten during the install. The error codes went away as well.

I believe my problem now is related to a faulty voltage regulator. If I remember correctly, these are now built inside of the alternators. I remember when they were separate units. But it sounds to me that the voltage regulator is not telling the alternator to charge up the battery intermittently. I may be all wet about this, but been thinking about it all day long trying to figure it out. I'm in the process of looking for a chrome plated alternator right now. I may be wrong, and if so, at least I will have a shiny alternator in place while I continue to try to track down the problem.

I would just hate to get stranded somewhere when the car stops running, which certainly could happen.

[Rich Z]

I just went ahead and ordered a new alternator. Shamefully I am not getting a genuine OEM GM unit but instead found a Autolite unit for under $200 that comes with a lifetime guarantee. They are sold locally through the Advance Auto stores around here, but I had to order it online because the local store doesn't carry it.

I did want a chrome one, but I couldn't find one either (1) at a price I was willing to pay, or (2) one was available to be shipped NOW.

Guess I need to find that monster socket set I bought many moons ago with the long arm bar in it. It's in that hell hole I call my "work room" somewhere. To give you an idea of what that room is like, I had a generator (one of those big 4,000 watt jobs) and I couldn't find it.... I probably have every tool made by man, but can only find half of them when I need them.

I figure I'll probably put in that Shaner throttle body at the same time. The alternator is supposed to be here on Friday, so that will keep me occupied Saturday unless the rains come back.

If the alternator doesn't fix the problem, I'm not sure what next step to take. I think the only other option is the wiring harness that goes from the alternator through the starter to the battery.

But I REALLY don't like the feeling that I can't just crank up the Z and ride for hours on end without the fear that it might die alongside the road somewhere. So I need to get this fixed and off my plate....

[Rich Z]

Well dang it all! I no sooner order that Autolite alternator when I find a place offering brand NEW polished ones for $425, shipping included. Place is Xtreme Motorsports. I haven't heard about the time element involved, so I need to check into it. I heard in CF that someone had an Autolite alternator burst into flames on him. I'm sure that is probably the exception rather then the rule.

Been doing a lot of reading up on this and I really don't know what the problem is. Some people say if the alternator is BAD, I should get an error flagged. I wonder if it is just the meter reading being flaky? I guess I could always put a meter directly on the battery and compare the two readings.

[EatRice]

Rich....I have only seen one aftermarket alternator work properly in a C5. The C5's computer controls the alternator. That is why there is 3 wires coming out of the top of the alternator. Your best bet it is to stick with factory or factory rebuilt unit. Also there is no ground wire on your alternator. The alternator grounds through the engine block. There are ground wires going from chasis to engine block and there is one that is often overlooked.

Current flows in a big circle. Negative lines are just as important as positive. Here is the first thing to do. Check all ground and power connections under the hood. You will need to jack up the car for this. Your locations can be found in the service manual. Remove all ground connections, clean the terminal and connecting area. I like to apply dielectric grease to the area. Then reattach making sure the connection is tight. Then go to the positive lines. Once you know all that is solid try driving the car. If there are more problems take the car to alternator shop and have them test the unit.

C5s have been prone to all sorts of electrical problems. Most of the time those probelms can be traced back to a bad ground. The C5 has a bunch of ground distribution blocks in the car. They are little black boxes with a metal tab attached, a bunch of small black wires coming out, and they are bolted to the chasis. You can clearly see one on each side of your car just behind the head lights on the frame rails. These boxes fail often causing issues with electrical components. On CF there are many threads on this. BillCurrie has written a few good articles on how to clean these boxes. I have removed all of them from my car. I solder all the wires together in one ring terminal and mount that.

[Rich Z]

Well, honestly since my car has over 62K miles on it, I knew just replacing the alternator will be a shot in the dark, but I think of an alternator as a wear item that doesn't live forever and probably needs to be replaced now anyway. I have the Autolite on order, so when it arrives I will install it and just see what happens. If it doesn't work at all, or not well, I take it to the local Advanced Auto store and get my money back. If it works but the problems don't change, then I look elsewhere for the problem, but at least I have an alternator that is not suspect.

Since this all happened since the headers were replaced, the suggestion about a ground has merit. It may be that one was affected by the install. But unfortunately I don't have a lift available, and no way to do that myself. My driveway is sand. I'm not putting a car on jacks and crawling underneath it with that sort of surface to rely on. I love my Z, but I don't want it laying on top of me intimately..

So likely next week, if the new alternator doesn't magically make the problem go away, I will be taking the car back to the shop that installed the headers and dump it on them to troubleshoot. Shane at Champion Chevrolet is a competent tech, so given enough time, I am sure he can find the problem. Having replaced the battery and alternator, I will have eliminated a couple of the variables by then.

Thanks.