I fix I read about was a DIY sort of thing:
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I used Radio Shack 10ohm, 10 watt resistors. Cut the black wire going to the F45 shock leaving enough room to splice in the resistor. Inside the F45 wire there are 2 wires. Connect by soldering or twisty) the resistor to these wires. 1 resistor per wheel or a total of 4 10ohn, 10 watt resistors. I then wrapped plastic wrap around the resistor to waterproof then electrical tape around the wrap. Used a zip tie to secure the bundle to the nearest fixed thing, don't remember what it was. Mine have been in over a year with no probs.
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Quote:
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
4 Resistors
#271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
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Or you can just try out these:
https://www.southerncarparts.com/cor...ors-p-303.html