I agree about pushing it up farther if you rotate towards the throttle body but if you rotate it back towards the wheel it should pull down on the hose.
Ah, OK, I see what you mean. Yeah, probably would do that. Well, the car isn't going anywhere any time soon, so I'll just leave it be till I can fix it permanently.
I've also got some new couplers on order so I can tackle trying to get that air bridge down low enough too, so it isn't getting the hood bounced down on it. The paint is already cracked in the hood directly above it, but I don't want any more damage to take place if I can help it.
Each day I read of your new "discoveries" in reference to the build. Just my opinion but you'll never regain the "confidence" in the C5. I am sorry this whole shin dig evolved as it did and again I say you are a better man then I for oh so many reasons.
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Each day I read of your new "discoveries" in reference to the build. Just my opinion but you'll never regain the "confidence" in the C5. I am sorry this whole shin dig evolved as it did and again I say you are a better man then I for oh so many reasons.
Or.......
I could just be much more stubborn and hard headed than you are.
To give up would be to allow Chris Harwood to have taken my car from me by destroying it. I will have a VERY tough time allowing that to happen.
I decided to change the oil and filter on the car today. Aaron told me that it has been changed at least three times since he's had it at the shop, even though there have only been 400 miles logged on the odometer since he's had it. But I figured that with the car running pretty rich because of those screwed up O2 sensors, probably would be a good thing to do now, just to play it safe.
I was quite surprised at how dark the oil was coming out of that oil pan....
With that breathered can and no proper crankcase evacuation your oil will need to be changed constantly to keep the motor from premature wear & failure. The amount of damaging combustion byproducts just keep re-condensing back into the oil every time you start up and cool down......but what do I know.
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Tech Support for most anything.
Got the exhaust system off the car up to the headers today. Replaced the O2 sensors and harnesses. One of the cats has a noticeable rattle to it, with the matrix core moving front to back when I tilt it. Probably not long for this world, but it looks OK visually on the inside. In any event, I have a pair of cat delete pipes coming in tomorrow. I want to take those catalytic converters out of the equation temporarily while getting everything else set up.
Oh, in case anyone is interested, here's what a rear O2 sensor and the needed adapter to mate it with the front harness.
Here's some pics of the old sensors that I took out:
And here's what it looks like with the new sensors in with the way the harnesses SHOULD look:
Location: 25 miles south of Boston, MA. Also have a house in Dunedin FL.
Posts: 1,927
Name : Andy Anderson
Looks MUCH better Rich !
Were either of the old ones cross threaded, did you have any trouble getting
them out, and any problems threading the new ones into the bungs?
Inquiring minds want to know..........
Andy
Well, I got a thread chasing tool for the O2 bung and I really took my time to try to get it lined up right, No sense in having it clean out a crossed thread instead of the real thread. Honestly though, although it looks better, it's not really PERFECTLY flush. I actually got my head up in there and looked over the thread inside the bung and it didn't look damaged in any way, so I'm not sure what really is going on. The O2 that came out of it didn't have damaged threads neither. But interestingly both of the O2 sensors looked like they had been whacked with a hammer or something. They have dents in them.
But no they were no trouble getting out of the bungs at all. I bought a special wrench for the O2s that worked like a champ getting a grip on them.
In any event, I guess when I have it all back together, I'll just have to see if there is any exhaust leak there at that driver's side bung. Sure as hell hope I don't have to pull down the header and take it to a muffler shop and have a new bung welded in.
I bought a tool that I can use to straighten out the lips of the pipe ends so they are perfectly round and smooth out a few dents I see where the exhaust was leaking. And I'm also going to be smoothing out any burrs and dings, cleaning up a LOT of carbon buildup where it appears that the cross over pipe was leaking badly, and just smooth out everything so it will go back together a lot easier than it wanted to come apart. I bought all new clamps that will overlap the joints and hopefully seal that sucker up TIGHT.
did you coat the threads with anti-sieze? doing this will allow for easier removal later on down the road. you can get it in small packets marketed for spark plug threads. they are next to the register at most parts stores for $0.99 a pack. you will likely want to get 2 packets, 1 might do but 2 will be plenty.
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Life is hard. It's much harder when you're stupid.
did you coat the threads with anti-sieze? doing this will allow for easier removal later on down the road. you can get it in small packets marketed for spark plug threads. they are next to the register at most parts stores for $0.99 a pack. you will likely want to get 2 packets, 1 might do but 2 will be plenty.
Actually the O2 sensors came with a small pack in each box. Each small tube was enough to do 4 of them. I replaced the steel plugs that Aaron had put into the back sensor plugs in the crossover pipe with some stainless plugs. I also got a tube of anti-seize when I ordered the O2 bung thread chaser, just in case.
I'm thinking maybe I should use it to coat the ends of the exhaust pipes when I put them together again. I guess it will act as a lubricant, won't it?
Took some video of a few problems I found while poking around underneath the car. I found one more rattle, it seems. The AC condenser is loose on the driver's side. Not sure what holds it in place, but I guess I'll find out.
Then I found that a screw was left off of the tunnel plate. Didn't notice it with the exhaust pipes in place.
I had run the car for a bit and noticed water splashing on the floor from one of the exhaust leaks I knew about on the driver's side. Then I saw another few drops coming down from the catback flange. Looks like the bolts just were not tightened sufficiently.
Also of note was that when I was trying to bang the cats off of the back of the crossover pipe, instead of them coming loose, the x-pipe itself pulled off of the headers. So apparently the clamps holding the x-pipe onto the headers were not tightened down neither...
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