I know that car has so much more potential. Come on bounce that rev limiter a bit.
No, sorry, not yet. Not till I've put the clutch through the recommended break-in miles. If something breaks or goes south, I don't want another poor choice from ME to be the cause of it.
Checked the oil today and it looks like it hasn't lost nor used a drop of it. And still looks as nice as clean as when I changed it last.
Haven't taken the car out the last few days as rain has been flitting through off and on. Plus Connie and I have been working on insulating the rest of the garage doors. Just got that done today. Well, except for putting the reflective seam tape on, that is. Hopefully that will keep the garage much cooler than it has been on sunny days when the afternoon sun turns the garage doors into hot plates.
Ah, thanks. But I believe there is a show in Silver Springs that weekend in October that Connie and I may go to.
Oh well....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kap142
Would love to see you guys there.
Ken
We're going to pass on this. Weather is too iffy for the next few days. We got a deluge yesterday here and it's raining right now, so I'm sure our road is a mess. I really hate scraping sand and mud out of the wheelwells.
If the road doesn't look too bad and it's not raining in the evening on Saturday, maybe I'll take the blue car for a quick run down to that cruise in right here in Crawfordville. At least I can do that on the spur of the moment.
As for the latest, I've only taken the car out once since last I mentioned anything. The faint smell of gasoline bothers me, so I have some of that UV fluorescing tracer fluid sitting on the shelf and put an ounce of it in the gas tank Tuesday morning. Took the car out for a short spin, and then came pack and put it up on the lift. Used a UV lamp I have and inspected everywhere the fuel is. This fluid is supposed to fluoresce as an orangish glow, and I didn't see any indications of a leak anywhere. However, I did notice a rather odd yellow-green fluorescing on the ss braided fuel lines. On a hunch, I opened up a container of gasoline I have for the gas powered tools, and sure enough, the gasoline has a milky yellow-green color in there. Odd thing is that dipping something into the gasoline doesn't seem to transfer the fluorescence to it, so that is a little puzzling to me. I've got some video of this, but haven't uploaded it quite yet.
Now I did notice that the gasoline odor is strongest around my passenger side gas tank, but there are no leaks there at all that I can see. I've been reading about the possibility of something called the Fuel Evaporator Canister that can sometimes emit a gasoline odor, so if I can figure out where that is located and it is possible to replace it without disassembling half of the car, I might go ahead and replace that. Need to FIND it first and eyeball what I would be getting into.
Aargh... I found the section in the service manual concerning the EVAP cannister replacement. First line says "Remove the right gas tank." Forget that. I'll just have to live with the gasoline odor.
Besides, apparently other stuff is missing anyway. There is supposed to be a vacuum line running from this EVAC canister that goes up to the engine bay then into a line with what looks like a check valve, and then into a port on the throttle body. None of that is there in my engine bay. So THAT may be why there is the odor of gasoline. The EVAP canister doesn't have any way to purge those fumes from it. And apparently there is a hard line going to the engine bay from this canister that is open to the air, which might be contributing to the fuel smell that I need to find. There is a line that used to be from the fuel pump up there that I have capped off, but I didn't see this EVAP canister line anywhere.
Oh well, at least I didn't already do ahead and order a new EVAP canister. But there is an access panel on the inside wheel well panel of the passenger side wheel that I may pull off and just LOOK at that canister to see if it is leaking any fuel. I know Chris Harwood pulled out both gas tanks and cleaned them out, so no telling what might be disconnected in there.
I guess I'm going to be finding things like this with this car for the rest of my life........
Been doing some more reading about this EVAP canister thingie...
Quote:
Motor vehicles are subjected to wide variations in temperature and air pressure, both while in use and when parked. Elevated temperatures and reduced air pressures, in particular, result in the generation of hydrocarbon vapors within the vapor space of the vehicle's fuel tank. Modern motor vehicles include a gas cap adapted to seal the open end of the tank filler neck, to prevent atmospheric venting of these polluting vapors. Such vehicles also are equipped with a charcoal canister, having an inlet interconnected to the vapor space in the upper portion of the fuel tank, by means of a vapor vent line. The outlet of the canister is interconnected to the engine's air/fuel intake system, such as the intake manifold, or the like.
The function of the charcoal canister is to absorb excessive gasoline vapors generated during high temperature and/or low ambient pressure conditions, while simultaneously avoiding a dangerous vapor pressure buildup in the fuel tank. Thus, in a proper functioning evaporative system, when pressure in the vapor space exceeds atmospheric pressure, fuel vapors migrate through the vapor vent line into the vehicle's canister, where the hydrocarbons are absorbed by the charcoal. If vapor pressure is sufficient, the filtered vapor is safely exhausted to the atmosphere through an air vent in bottom of the canister.
Then, during driving, the vacuum existing in the intake manifold draws fresh air in through the same vent, vaporizing the hydrocarbons. The gas vapor is drawn by vacuum through the purge line, and introduced into the intake manifold for combustion. In this manner, the gasoline is fully utilized, and the charcoal canister is fully purged of vapors, restoring its hydrocarbon storage capacity for the next cycle.
If the charcoal canister is not regularly purged while the vehicle is driven, the charcoal will eventually become saturated and the trapped hydrocarbons will escape directly into the atmosphere through the canister's air vent. When this occurs, the major advantages provided by the evaporative system are defeated. The negative environmental impact of uncontrolled vapor discharge through the canister rivals that of the vehicle's exhaust emissions. Moreover, this vapor emission also decreases the overall fuel economy of the vehicle, by venting hydrocarbons which would otherwise be burned in the engine. Consequently, proper purging of the canister has significance both for the environment and for the conservation of energy.
Processed the video I took of the UV light being applied to my stainless steel braided fuel lines to give you an idea of what I saw. Just puzzling to me. Are those lines leaching fuel through them? Why doesn't the INSIDE of that fuel line hose fluoresce when exposed to the UV light? Wouldn't the inside be heavily coated with whatever in the gasoline it is that reacts to UV light?
BTW, this is my first attempt at dubbing a vocal track over one of my videos. Just seemed easier to do than to type in all that text describing what I was showing in the video.
I've been fiddling with the tailpipes trying to get them even and they are fighting with me. Part if the problem is that the stainless steel tips are not welded on the tailpipes perfectly straight, so trying to get them aligned across so they look straight is proving to be a real challenge...
At one point I tried loosening up a clamp on the passenger side turbo that goes to the cold side air housing so I could get that side to drop down a little bit more. But when I did that, I started getting a real slow oil leak coming from the two bolts at the bottom of that housing. When I say "real slow" it's like two or three drops every several hours. But still, it IS an oil leak.
So I figured maybe those bolts were loose and tried to tighten them up a bit. Disconcertingly, they were loose, and would NOT tighten up, so apparently they are stripped in that aluminum housing. I moved the hose clamp back the way it was, and it appears to have stopped leaking. But I'll be checking it to make certain.
So, let's see, who was it exactly who last took apart those turbos? Oh yeah, Aaron Scott.
If the oil leak stops, I'm just not going to worry about it. If not, well, I guess I need to figure out how to fix stripped threads in aluminum so I can fix that.
Anyway, I also took a couple of pics of the underside of the back of the car while I had my camera out and the car up there on the lift.
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