Steering slop

[Kap142]

My 72 manual feels a bit loose. Nothing ugly but not as tight as I believe it came from the factory. What do my fellow forum members suggest to get the slack out?

I plan on (in a few months) installing the original Chevy PS package as offered in 72 but for now I'd like to remove some of the slop. Any suggestions?

Ken

["Backyard Mechanic"]

Originally Posted by Kap142

My 72 manual feels a bit loose. Nothing ugly but not as tight as I believe it came from the factory. What do my fellow forum members suggest to get the slack out?

I plan on (in a few months) installing the original Chevy PS package as offered in 72 but for now I'd like to remove some of the slop. Any suggestions?

Ken

Check your tie rod ends for play.
Can the car be lubed?
Check sterring knuckles for play.If there is play they need to be replaced.
Check Tire pressure.
Front end alightment?
Driver error

[Kap142]

Thanks dude,

I'll put those on my to do list for tomorrow. Lets see, I can do this while you're working. Yep I can. Hey are ya going to Joe's on the 14th?



Ken

[Rich427]

Originally Posted by Kap142

My 72 manual feels a bit loose. Nothing ugly but not as tight as I believe it came from the factory. What do my fellow forum members suggest to get the slack out?

I plan on (in a few months) installing the original Chevy PS package as offered in 72 but for now I'd like to remove some of the slop. Any suggestions?

Ken

Hey Ken,

Their is an adjustment in the steering box itself, but you might want to take a look at the rag joint. This is the connection between your steering shaft and the steering box. If the rag joint is original, it is 35 years old and probably shot giving you more play in the steering wheel.

I just replaced mine on my '69 before I shipped it to Florida. It made a significant difference.

Let us know what you find out.

Rich

[Nytro]

There is an adjustment on the steering box itself, a small slotted screw that is held down by a lock nut. Also check your idler arm for slop and also check the upper and lower control arm bushings. Alot of times the rubber in them deteriorates and it gives the car a floaty feel. I changed the ball joints and control arm bushings in my 66, did an alignment and it was like night and day. There are a couple of bearings in the steering box that might also be shot, plus you can replace the worm gear in there. I would tend to believe that there is something up with the bushings or steering linkage instead of the box itself.

I recently rebuilt the front end on the GTX, new control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links and idler arm and let me tell ya first hand I'd rather do the same work on a GM anyday, much easier and no special tools required except a vise.

["Backyard Mechanic"]

Originally Posted by Kap142

Thanks dude,

I'll put those on my to do list for tomorrow. Lets see, I can do this while you're working. Yep I can. Hey are ya going to Joe's on the 14th?



Ken

We will be there
I don't have to work tommorrow,But unlike some people,I do have to work Monday

[85vette]

Originally Posted by Nytro

There is an adjustment on the steering box itself, a small slotted screw that is held down by a lock nut. Also check your idler arm for slop and also check the upper and lower control arm bushings. Alot of times the rubber in them deteriorates and it gives the car a floaty feel. I changed the ball joints and control arm bushings in my 66, did an alignment and it was like night and day. There are a couple of bearings in the steering box that might also be shot, plus you can replace the worm gear in there. I would tend to believe that there is something up with the bushings or steering linkage instead of the box itself.

I recently rebuilt the front end on the GTX, new control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links and idler arm and let me tell ya first hand I'd rather do the same work on a GM anyday, much easier and no special tools required except a vise.

Use caution when making adjustments to the steering gear box. The slotted screw is the worm gear adjuster and can easily break if excess pressure is used. I would advise to consult with a Chiltons manual or someone who has one of these apart. I adjusted one on a truck one time and was told afterward what could have happened.

[ynkedad]

Originally Posted by Backyard Mechanic

Driver error

feeling kinda loose!?

[gmjunkie]

Originally Posted by 85vette

Use caution when making adjustments to the steering gear box. The slotted screw is the worm gear adjuster and can easily break if excess pressure is used. I would advise to consult with a Chiltons manual or someone who has one of these apart. I adjusted one on a truck one time and was told afterward what could have happened.

I agree here!!! If you get it to tight,You can screw things up,or even make it start leaking the lubricant!!!

[Nytro]

Originally Posted by 85vette

Use caution when making adjustments to the steering gear box. The slotted screw is the worm gear adjuster and can easily break if excess pressure is used. I would advise to consult with a Chiltons manual or someone who has one of these apart. I adjusted one on a truck one time and was told afterward what could have happened.

Makes sense, but then again any adjustment or repair on any part of any 30 plus year old car should be done with caution and should only be attempted after some kind of research. But to not try to attempt anything because of what might possibly happen doesn't make much sense. Ya, if you put a 1/2 inch wrench on the nut with a two foot pipe to tighten it down you are surely asking for trouble, or if you use a one foot long screwdriver to tighten down the adjuster screw as much as possible on the sector shaft you will certainly wind up in the crapper. As with any repair you should make note of where the screw and nut are positioned before attempting to adjust them, even mark the steering box with a dab of white paint so if things don't work out you can go back to where you started.

Just so we don't get confused the slotted screw is the pitman shaft adjuster. The worm gear adjuster is a big nut that is part of a bearing cap that is locked down by a big diameter ring nut about two inches in diameter.

There is probably no need to align the steering box on the frame but you do want to check to make sure the bolts are tight and there is no space between the frame and the box. Then you want to check all the componants, ball joints, idler arm, tie rod ends and especially the a-frame bushings.

The steering box on this car is a Saginaw Recirculating Ball Type. The proper way to adjust it is as follows. After checking all the componants disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm, loosen the pitman shaft adjusting screw lock nut and back off the adjustment. Turn the steering wheel to the left or right to within one turn of extreme travel. Loosen the lock nut on the end plate of the gear box and turn the worm bearing adjuster in until all end play is removed. Use a pull spring scale at the spoke of the steering wheel and continue to adjust the worm bearing adjusting screw in until a pull of approx one pound is required to turn the steering wheel. Tighten down the lock nut. Turn the wheel from one extreme to another to make sure there is no binding or stiffness. Don't have a spring scale then make small adjustments many times rather than one large one. After the worm gear has been adjusted to satisfaction place the steering wheel in the center position. Tighten the pitman shaft adjusting screw in the gearbox side cover until the end play is taken up in the pitman shaft. A pull of approxamately two pounds should be required to turn the steering wheel. This includes worm bearing preload. Tighten the lock nut and check for stiffness and binding.

These are push pull adjustments which controls both cross shaft end play and gear mesh, if binding or stiffness is encountered recheck the adjustments. Don't forget to refill the gearcox and connect the steering linkage.

On an end note, if you have never done these types of adjustments or don't want to attempt them, then by all means don't, but they arent really that difficult if you understand how the box works and what you are doing. I rebuilt the box in my 66 (without a spring scale tool) and it did make a difference, it's very easy to do as long as you use common sense and take your time, as any repair should be done on a car. If you don't have the basic working knowledge or a short fuse you could be in for a long, long day.

Naturally these are just my opinions.