Spark Plug/Wires Replacement

MADN3SS · 06-26-2006, 06:29 PM

Does anyone have a good procedure for doing this? Is is something I can do?

(Not a whole lot of mechanical experience) Taking them out and putting them in shouldn't be a problem. It's the gapping and the indexing that I have no idea what to do. Are there any special tools that I might need?

Thanks for the help.

**Rich Z** · 06-26-2006, 07:37 PM

I haven't replaced my plugs myself as I asked the tech to do it during my header install, but that number 7 plug looks like a real chore to get to. I wanted to check the plug wire going to it the other day and couldn't even get my hand in there. All the rest of them don't look TOO bad.

From what I have heard, you need to twist the plug wire boot before pulling it off. It is also recommended to use a dialectric grease on both the threads of the plug in the head as well as the spark plug wire boots. I also had MSD wires put on at the same time, so the old wires just got discarded.

As for indexing and gapping the plugs, I didn't have any need for that to be done. I got the E3 plugs which come pre-gapped and no indexing is required because the flame projects straight out from the plug. I don't know if they are better or worse then anything else available, but I do know they seem to work just fine in my car. I guess I'll know more in 5 years or so....

zzzona · 06-26-2006, 07:44 PM

My plugs were replaced a few months back..did not index them...did not know what indexing was until recently..NO problems..FRC Tom tuned it........My mods are very similar to yours
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on New Spark Plugs and Gapping
Models:
2004 Buick Ranier
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
2003-2004 Chevrolet Express, TrailBlazer
1999-2004 CMC Sierra
2000-2004 CMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2004 CMC Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali
2002-2004 CMC Sierra Denali
2003-2004 CMC Envoy XL
1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2004 Pontiac GTO
2003-2004 Hummer H2
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V-8 Engine (VINs V, P, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM4, LM7, L59, LSI, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

3318C5 · 06-26-2006, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzzona

My plugs were replaced a few months back..did not index them...did not know what indexing was until recently..NO problems..FRC Tom tuned it........My mods are very similar to yours
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on New Spark Plugs and Gapping
Models:
2004 Buick Ranier
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
2003-2004 Chevrolet Express, TrailBlazer
1999-2004 CMC Sierra
2000-2004 CMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2004 CMC Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali
2002-2004 CMC Sierra Denali
2003-2004 CMC Envoy XL
1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2004 Pontiac GTO
2003-2004 Hummer H2
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V-8 Engine (VINs V, P, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM4, LM7, L59, LSI, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

Good Info! The wires are a PITA to change out. Definitely use the dielectric grease! I removed the EGR valve fro the driver side for space. I still ended up with a couple of scratches....

Good luck!

MADN3SS · 06-27-2006, 09:54 AM

I had the plugs and wires off when I did the headers last month. Had I known ahead of time, I would have just bought them before hand and changed them out, with Ivo's help of course. We broke one of the wires, so now I need to replace them. I bought the Magnecor racing wires and the Beru Silverstone plugs. So I'll have to read up on gapping and indexing. Maybe I'll do it at the Z06 Fest in Kentucky next month. I'm sure it'll help having all the gearheads around!

gsjack · 07-02-2006, 11:24 PM

We need to get some grease under those finger nails Scott.

Jack

MADN3SS · 07-03-2006, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsjack

We need to get some grease under those finger nails Scott.

Jack

I'm all for doing it and learning Jack. There's no better way IMO. I'm not mechanically inept, but I'm better once someone shows me.

dogboy · 07-04-2006, 01:05 AM

I just did my plugs. I replaced the 17K NGK TR55's. I used a swivel end for the plug socket coupled to my swivel head rachet wrench. I removed the power brake vac hose for hand clearance for the #7, removed the clip on wire for what I think is the temp sensor next to the #1 plug. I had one hell of a time twisting & pulling the wires off the old plugs. I found that if you keep at it it will eventually pop off. Removing the snap on valve covers helped some with room for gripping those suckers. I used the plug wire grease for reinstall and anti sieze on the plug threads. I didn't bother with indexing. The car feels a little more responsive now with the new plugs. I would say it took me a whole 1.5 hours for the job. What held me up the most was the plug wire removal & the fact that I didn't have the correct socket for the plugs. Mine was to short and if I pushed the extention or swivel into the socket fully it would hit the top of the plug as it protruded out of the socket. I had to push in the extentions half way to get a grip on the plugs what a pita. As for indexing I can't see how you can do this as the plugs are almost a blind item in the sense that you can't see them fully. I replaced 1/2 of them by feel with only the tips being visible. ( Full length headers on car). Next time should be easier.

billybonesmusic · 07-19-2006, 01:07 PM

Don't trust the plug gap "out of the box" you should always double check the gap yourself with a plug gapper or a feeler gage, the haynes manual will let you know what to gap em' at, you can get plug gappers at the auto store for under $2 at the checkout counter. you can also check your wires with an ohm meter to see if they are out of tolerance before you buy new wires.