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Unread 04-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #21
Kap142
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Thanks guys, I shall be patient (sure I will) and pray these guys didn't know any of the "professionals" who gave RichZ his ulcers.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.

Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 02:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannings View Post
Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.

Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.
Why wasn't it covered under warranty?
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Unread 04-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #24
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It wasn't done by a GM authorized dealer.

Pros and Cons to going to a dealer. Pro - higher labor rates with a warranty , Cons - lower labor rate and GM will not warranty defective part if installed by others. And others will always say no warranty it was a defective part.

It's a crap shot out there Rich.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 03:22 PM   #25
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Actually, it seems more like Russian roulette with cartridges in five of the six chambers trying to get quality work done with quality parts.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 04:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannings View Post
Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.


Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.
Going to be interesting to see what they find once they open her up. I sure hope the clutch has not been slicked up with fluid but you have prepared me for other areas that might become a factor. Murphy and I shall see what happens. Thank you for the heads up.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 05:12 PM   #27
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So during all this I stop to ponder.......

I use my clutch and gears far more then my brakes. I virtually never go through the gears up and not go back down through them as I reduce speed.

I wonder if my driving habits have contributed greatly to the slave cyl. going "kaput"?

Maybe I need to learn to just kick her in neutral and use my brakes.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 05:47 PM   #28
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Don't know my friend. I have down shifted all my life when slowing down. My stock clutch lasted me 100k +. I think the leaking slave that took out the new clutch was a freak of nature.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 06:44 PM   #29
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Good input 'cause it would be really difficult to change this many years of a given set of driving habits.

Thanks
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Unread 04-06-2013, 08:02 PM   #30
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I know I've changed my driving habits somewhat when I learned that every time you push the clutch in you are putting pressure on the thrust bearing on the crank. I used to sit at stoplights with the car in gear and the clutch depressed the entire time. No longer.
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