Quote:
Originally Posted by C5Rick
After I got home and went over the bill, I contacted you about the charge and in your reply to me, no refund was offered.
That is an outright lie....Karen & I will both agree to a lie detector test along with you to prove this. You were offered it at the time, and when offered you told Karen no, it's fine. We ALWAYS make things right in the case of an error, and the error was being stupid enough to offer you a service at cost.....it takes 1 hour minimum to do a trans flush & filter change....and we include a new gasket. Call Cox or any other shop and please post their price.
I'm not a mechanic nor engineer so how things work I leave to others. As to why I wanted to remove the catch can and hook up the stock PCV system is my business, I just assumed it was still there and not cut off. Just where did you get that I was going to run an open system, this is why I was pissed that the OEM parts were gone. In doing research, I've found most people leave the original system in place.
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The proper PCV system mod involves re-routing the plumbing on both the inlet tubes that will feed to the oil seperating catch can (the purpose of a proper oil seperating catch can is to remove the oil vapor/mist before it gets into the intake manifold and contaminates the intake charge causing power loss & excess carbon build-up on the piston tops & valves resulting in even more power loss over time) and also the outlet running to the vacume source at the intake manifold snout. Our can has an integrated PCV valve positioned to further prevent any oil getting past the seperator into the intake. Our system is designe d to be functional first and foremost and in side by side tests has proven to be more effective than any other on the market that we are aware of. #1 is the size of the area for condensation (the primary means to turn the mist/vapor to droplets that can be trapped in the can), our seperator is a full one quart (most others are less than 1/2 that capacity) and utilizes a perferated dispersion tube to ensure the most complete contact of the vapors with the outer surfaces to facilitate this. We use no inner media as we found it quickly becomes saturated and allows droplets to be pulled off and enter the intake, and at 1 qt, it only needs to be emptied at each oil change....not every few weeks as the smaller, less effective ones do. We also integrate a new PCV valve at the top most outlet point to be more effective than the OEM location which is flat & down slope of the flow allowing oil to seep past when not running that is drawn through upon start-up. To leave the stock one in place would make no sense.....it would look shoddy & un-professional to leave a unhooked PCV valve hanging from the ground cable, and we also snip the cable neatly at the grommet as to remove the nut & grommet leave a bare stud sticking up that again, looks slopp, shoddy, and unproffesional....if you want one we have dozens here from installs you can have for free.
I would also like to know the rational for removing something that is so functional in preventing oil contamination into the intake air charge? All I'm asking is some rational, but I suspect you were manipulated by another shop into your actions....something you DON'T see from us. Your response seems to show ignorance & embarrasment by saying it is "personal". One should have verifiable facts before making such changes and that brings us to the hoses comment I made.....there are some absolute idiots out there parading as knowledgeable on this subject, and I will go head-to-head with anyone that disputes the proper need, function, design of a proper crankcase ventallation system.
I strongly suggest you and anyone that has doubts on the importance of a proper system read this:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...ging-down.html
In closing, I strongly suspect that someone has duped you and used you to make such an unimformed post.....a shop with no ethics that has an aggenda to somehow promote themselves by convincing an uneducated (on mechanical knowledge) person they were somehow not treated properly.
I also challenge whoever filled you full of this bull and made a fool out of you to come on and debate me 1 on 1 for the benifit of all the members now wondering....as it's clear whoever convinced you to remove it hasn't a clue in relation to the importance of a properly designed crankcase breathing/evacuation system. Different applications for street, strip, and road-race. We have over 2,000 of these in use accross the world and time and again get feedback from pro-racers & knowledgable techs that this is by far the best functioning system they have ever used. We have designed them for NA, FI (turbo & SC) anf the only one on the market that cures the LS7/C6 Z06 road race issues of burping oil into the intake bellows during hard turns, accel, & braking. (road race units require 1/2 capacity or 2 1 qt's in series).
Our qualifications are unequaled by all but a handful of shops in the country, and you don't have to look far for examples:
http://www.whowon.com/Results.asp?Tr...StoryID=200304
No "self-taught" amatures here that tell a customer "tuff luck" when a serious failure occures, we take the job back in and make it right no matter what the cost.
We make it clear to all customers that if they are unhappy in any way come back & we will do whatever it takes to make it right......and we have had only 1 return of a catch can (customer was not happy with the size...appearance meant more than function) and have only had 3 returned for repairs (2 had the drain valve strip & 1 the dispersion tube came loose) and all have been repaired & returned same day. If you did not want your engine protected properly we would have gladley refunded the cost WITH OUT a re-stocking fee (something we do not charge even though the costs are substantial tp eat). But you chose to report an un-true and inaccurate experiance and that is unacceptable.
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