427 engine (part 2) - RHS block

[Rich Z]

Yesterday I put together the wiring for the LC-1 wideband controller. Soldered a power plug to go into the cigarette lighter socket and attached the calibration button and LED. Then I went through the calibration procedures for the controller and the sensor. Everything went OK, so apparently I soldered the wires together correctly. I found a guy selling a single cable that runs from the LC-1 to the EFILive FlashScan V2 module. With the stock parts it would take two cables and a null modem adapter plugged between them, and that's just too many connections for my tastes. A single cable just makes a whole lot more sense to me. But it's not here yet so I may hold off mounting the wideband sensor into the exhaust until it shows up.

Got the stuff in from SummitRacing to replace the long runs of fuel lines going from the engine compartment to the fuel pump area. Minus one fitting that is on backorder until the end of the month, however. So I'm not pulling anything apart till I have everything I need in my hands.

And today I got a package from STS which I presume has the turbo timer inside.

Still spending a lot of time over on the EFILive forum and reading over their tutorials. I need to figure out an make up some sort of glossary of acronyms they all use there. I already know some of them, but man it really slows down the comprehension of what they are talking about when you don't know what that acronym they are referring to means.

Mike Carnahan sent me a new tune, but I haven't flashed it into the PCM yet. I've been using his tune to look at to apply these practical examples to what the EFILive tutorials and threads are talking about. To be honest, there are some things in the tune that I just don't understand yet. But I'm still chipping away at it.

Not sure if I'm just not feeling all that ambitious because of the holiday season or if I'm being smart and just waiting till EVERYTHING shows up and I can dive in and get it all done at one swell foop. Yeah, I'm being smart. THAT's the ticket........... Now, where are those Christmas cookies?

[85vette]

One swell foop? Rich, have you gotten into the egg nog?

[Rich Z]

Originally Posted by 85vette

One swell foop? Rich, have you gotten into the egg nog?

Figured I could get someone to make a reply that way. Gotcha!

[Rich Z]

I pulled the turbo timer (they also call this an "after-run timer) out of the envelope it came in from STS, and it's a lot smaller than I thought it would be. Not a whole lot of length on the wires, but beggars can't be choosers. Maybe I better look around in that battery compartment again to see if mine is still tucked up underneath some wires or something and I just overlooked it thinking it was something larger and more obvious.



I think the reason I was expecting something larger is because I was envisioning putting this timer AFTER the relay and having it carry the current needed to the oil scavenge pump. Higher current would mean a larger unit. But after reading over the wiring instructions, obviously STS used a much better method. This timer simply provides an extended runtime via the trigger wire from the fuel pump line that activates the relay. So it doesn't have to carry much current at all. Which makes a whole lot more sense then the way I was looking at it. Duh....

I'm just double checking with STS to make sure that this is the correct way to hook it up, as the color coding in their instructions for those wires no longer applies to my system. Since this part is not something I can easily find again, I sure as heck don't want to burn it up if I hook it up wrong.

I'll have to pull the relay out to wire this timer up to it, and I guess I had better solder those leads onto the relay lugs. I only used slip on connectors originally, but I think soldering would be much better and more permanent. If one were to vibrate off, then the scavenge pump would stop working and those turbos will be spitting out oil through the exhaust and intake pipes until the oil pan goes dry.

[Rich Z]

I took some pics of the Innovate LC-1 wideband controller along with the sensor. I should have made better use of heat shrink tubing, but I used silicone wrap tape instead, which will work OK. I'm not trying to win any prizes with my wiring skills.

It's a tool, seems to work, so that is all that matters. The button works, the LED works, and the sensor heats up. That's all the soldering I did needed to accomplish. And the wrap keeps loose wires from getting snagged on something.











I guess the cable I'm waiting on from the LC-1 to the FlashScan V2 will get here this upcoming week sometime.

[Rich Z]

I pulled out the battery today and wired up the after-run timer I got from STS to the scavenge pump relay. I had to basically retrace those wires, since the color coding now had nothing at all to do with what was in the original wiring harness from STS.

I soldered all the splice connections I made and also soldered all the slip on connectors I originally had on the relay lugs. Wouldn't want any of those connectors to loosen up and vibrate off over time.



Then put shrink wrap on all the connections to insulate them.



Finally, mounted the relay back on the stud it was originally located on, and put the timer into it's own clamp on the firewall to hold it securely.



Done.

Haven't hooked the battery up yet to test it, since I've got something else I want to do while power is disconnected. So I just put the batter back into the battery compartment but left all the cables disconnected.

So I'll have to do the smoke test another day.

Oh yeah. I looked HARD while in the battery compartment, and my original timer is nowhere to be found. So apparently it just walked away either in Blountstown or Thomasville.

[Rich Z]

I can't win......

So I ordered a special interface cable mentioned in a thread on the EFILive forum to hook up the Innovate LC-1 wideband controller directly to the FastScan V2. Just showed up today, so I wanted to hook this all up so I could do some data logging of the air/fuel ratio to see what I have. Only problem is that the end that plugs into the female serial OUT jack is just a tad TOO big to fit. The plug on the stock LC-1 harness measures 6.9mm, and the one I got on this TAQcables (http://taquickness.com/taqcables.htm) custom cable measures 8.1 mm.



You can see the obvious difference in diameter.

Here's the jack it needs to fit into. The female jack accepts the male end, and that plastic collar extending from the jack grips the plastic on the plug end to hold it tight in place.



That is not a soft rubber collar around that jack. I tried forcing it, but both ends are rather flat against each other, and I'm afraid of splitting that collar by doing a "damn the torpedoes" assault.

Here's how it looks with the terminator in the IN jack on the harness showing how it fits. Even with the correct diameter it was a pretty darn tight fit.



Am I being too picky thinking that this should just be RIGHT for the application? Or is this another case of a part having "minor fitment" issues, some machining required?

[Rich Z]

I contacted the seller. Of course I am the only one in the universe who has noted this issue and contacted him about it........

Does no one on this planet give a crap about attention to detail and quality of their workmanship?

[Rich Z]

BTW, I smoke tested that wiring I did yesterday installing that timer, and everything seemed OK. The oil scavenge pump now runs for about 10 seconds after the engine is shut down, so that will help to clear the oil out of the return lines.

[Benjamin]

take a knife and cut what is extended over the socket off. that's the only easy way to make it work.