427 engine (part 2) - RHS block - Page 170

**Rich Z** · 07-11-2012, 03:22 PM

BTW, I talked with Shane at Champion Chevrolet again today. I told him I was ready to just bring the car into the shop and let him tear the drivetrain apart to find out what is going on. Seeing that loose bolt on the bell housing spooked me, so I'm thinking there is no telling what might be loose elsewhere in that drivetrain. But he said it would be best for me to drive the car some more to try to be able to recreate the problem. It's going to be a rather large expense pulling the drivetrain out to perhaps not find a smoking gun, or else the problem is being caused by something else entirely that would be a LOT cheaper to fix. He wants me to try to be able to make the noise happen on demand so he can more easily trouble shoot the problem.

Makes sense, I guess. I'm just worried about either breaking down along the road, or even whatever is causing that noise possibly causing even more damage to something. But yeah, I realize this is probably the best thing to do.

Need to get out of this funk I am in about even driving the car and just forge ahead.... But this is a SERIOUS downer to my life right now.... Connie's feeling the strain as well. She is still supporting my keeping the car and getting it fixed, but I can tell it is wearing on her.

**Rich Z** · 07-12-2012, 07:21 PM

Didn't take out the car since storms have been flitting all around here. Not that I am getting any rain HERE on the property, of course, but just all AROUND us.

Been looking over transmission lifts again. A subsidiary of BendPak makes what looks like a pretty robust unit. -> http://www.bendpak.com/shop-equipmen.../RTJ-3000.aspx

Probably more than I would need if I decide to do this drivetrain stuff in my garage, but I tend to over spec things a bit anyway.

I was over in the garage today and decided to put on the set of Elite Engineering frame rocker rails that I've had sitting on the workbench since right after my C5Z first went into the shop. My elbow didn't give me too much trouble, but I did favor it a bit, just in case. Not that this required any real wrenching. But anyway, now I can pull the car onto the lift and just set up the lift arms without worrying about the hockey pucks.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Frame_rails.html

**Rich Z** · 07-16-2012, 09:21 PM

Well, that's just great. Connie and I went to a couple of stores, and they were ALL completely OUT of Excedrin. Now what am I going to do? :willy:

The guys over on CorvetteForum say I am going to have to pull my F.A.S.T. intake manifold again to pull the drivetrain. I hate to doubt anyone, but isn't there a way to get around this?

The reason I even ask is because when Aaron Scott found a washer in my #7 piston, he swore that he never had my intake manifold off up to that time, which was six (6) months after the car was towed to him. So he claims there was no way that washer could have gotten in there on his watch.

Well, he pulled the drive train in that time frame to send the transmission and differential to RPM Transmissions, and also replaced the clutch. I checked back in my records in this thread and the drivetrain was removed and shipped approximately 10/21/10 to RPM. By 11/17/10 the transmission and differential were back from RPM and installed in my car. It wasn't until 03/18/11 that Aaron claimed my engine blew a head gasket, which he thought may have had something to do with the washer found to have bounced around in that cylinder, damaging the piston. The engine was pulled then, by the way, and not from the bottom, but from the top out through the engine compartment.

So if Aaron says he never pulled off the intake manifold prior to the "head gasket" problem and subsequent engine pull, then how DID he extract the drivetrain to be sent to RPM, and also replace the clutch without doing so? Is this telling me that it is POSSIBLE to do?

BTW, I looked over the situation, and it appears to me that possibly the engine COULD have been tilted back without impacting the firewall except for the fact that the old MAP sensor is still back there, and directly underneath that is a hose line that I think is for the air conditioning. That appears to be the limiting factor. That MAP sensor will hit against that hose as it is RIGHT underneath it. I don't think I can move it any, but honestly, can I just cut off the electrical end of it, leaving the vacuum end still sealed in the manifold itself? I really REALLY don't want to pull of the intake again. I guess I'm just scared to death that something else will break or get screwed up. Too much bad mojo going on here....

Anyone got any thoughts on this? I'm really bummed out about this snowballing job doing this drivetrain thing. Not that I'm going to jump right in NOW and do it, but I really have my doubts that my driving the car is going to turn up any sort of miracle indicating that I will be able to dodge this bullet.

CorvetteJohn · 07-17-2012, 05:01 AM

I can feel your frustration and concern about what else might be about to happen with this car. Sometimes I think you just have to fix what you can see and try it and see if it improves the situation. Something I remind myself about with my car if I start to sense something is not right but can't put my finger on it is this.

Worry is like a rocking chair
It gives you something to do
But you don't go anywhere.

Just wondering if after you tightened that bolt did it change anything in the noise you hear.

**Rich Z** · 07-17-2012, 10:56 AM

Do you mean the loose bolt I found on the bell housing? Heck, it's not tight as I couldn't get a tool on it. I just finger tightened it enough to be a little snug. And I haven't had the car out since I first heard that noise, but the noise didn't sound like that loose bell housing bolt could have been causing it. But heck, if other bolts there that I can't even see are loose, I guess that if the bell housing were flexing and causing a misalignment of the drive shaft in the clutch and pilot bearing, I suppose that could make some noise.

But I guess that is a long shot. Since the bell housing is aluminum, I would guess that multiple bolts being loose would cause stress on the ones that ARE tightened at the bottom and crack the bell housing. At this point I really can't rule out anything....

My elbow is starting to feel somewhat better, so the longer I delay aggravating it, I'm guessing the faster it will heal. So I'm really not in any hurry to do this quite yet.

CorvetteJohn · 07-18-2012, 04:09 AM

I was talking to a fellow today who has been building high performance cars for over 20 years. I mentioned your problem with your clutch and the noise you hear. He said he had a Chevelle that did something similar. He said that it's problem was the bell housing moving under torque from the bolts not being evenly torqued causing the drive line to not be in line. Thought I would pass this on to you. Hope all you have to do is re tighten the bell housing.

Benjamin · 07-18-2012, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Z

Do you mean the loose bolt I found on the bell housing? Heck, it's not tight as I couldn't get a tool on it. I just finger tightened it enough to be a little snug.

I would assume with the proper amount and proper combination of extensions and wobbles, that the bolt *should* be able to be tightened. it will be trial and error on the socket size (shallow vs deep well) and then the different combinations of where to use a wobble and what extensions to use where to be able to tighten down the bolt.

I'm not saying it can be done, but I wouldn't rule the above out.

CorvetteJohn · 07-18-2012, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benjamin

I would assume with the proper amount and proper combination of extensions and wobbles, that the bolt *should* be able to be tightened. it will be trial and error on the socket size (shallow vs deep well) and then the different combinations of where to use a wobble and what extensions to use where to be able to tighten down the bolt.

I'm not saying it can be done, but I wouldn't rule the above out.

Sometimes I find it easier to stand back and sight down a long extension to see if there is a path it can go through to get to the bolt. Up close is like not being able to see the forest for the trees. With that in mind it may be possible to get to all the bell housing bolts. As already said you may have to empty the tool box to get the right combination of tools.

**Rich Z** · 07-18-2012, 11:27 AM

Man, that would be GREAT if that is all this is. I don't have any wobble extensions, so I'll have to get some. Still, all said and done, I might not really be able to get to the bolts without removing at least the headers and the tunnel plate. I looked at some spring wound flexible socket extensions, but they don't appear to be able to deliver more than a foot pound or three of torque.

Well, this is a glimmer of hope.............. Thanks!

CorvetteJohn · 07-18-2012, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Z

Man, that would be GREAT if that is all this is. I don't have any wobble extensions, so I'll have to get some. Still, all said and done, I might not really be able to get to the bolts without removing at least the headers and the tunnel plate. I looked at some spring wound flexible socket extensions, but they don't appear to be able to deliver more than a foot pound or three of torque.

Well, this is a glimmer of hope.............. Thanks!

If you are buying extensions get one that is 24" and one that is 36". I wish I had a 36" for my tool box because I often am adding a 12" to my 23" extension to get to something.