• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

C5 Clutch slave cylinder

Thanks guys, I shall be patient (sure I will) and pray these guys didn't know any of the "professionals" who gave RichZ his ulcers.:shrug01:
 
Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.

Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.
 
Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.

Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.

Why wasn't it covered under warranty?
 
It wasn't done by a GM authorized dealer.

Pros and Cons to going to a dealer. Pro - higher labor rates with a warranty , Cons - lower labor rate and GM will not warranty defective part if installed by others. And others will always say no warranty it was a defective part.

It's a crap shot out there Rich. :shrug01:
 
Actually, it seems more like Russian roulette with cartridges in five of the six chambers trying to get quality work done with quality parts.
 
Ken: 3 year old information. My clutch went out on my '99 and had it replaced. The clutch disc and plate are a set then the slave cylinder separate. Used the C6Z parts and it cost about $1500 including labor. 4 months later I had clutch problems again and figured warranty. No such luck.

The new slave, GM Part, was leaking and saturated my clutch disc with fluid. This time I had the whole works done while it was apart. Full clutch and slave, torque tube bushings, rear seal and rear wheel seals. I also added a remote bleeded for changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, this has been a God sent. It took at least 2 months the to get the darn air out of the system, this is probably partly my fault for not having a clue the how to bleed the new clutch systems. I tried every method known to man and the other Forum. I finally let the remote hang below the Vette and I tuck it into the driver side wheel well cover. Today I change the fluid about once a year by cracking the remote connection, letting the fluid gravity drain under the Vette while I'm topping off the reservior until it runs clean fluid, tighten it up and all is well. Just under $2000.


Good luck

Rick

By the way I'm pushing 165k on the old gal, had it since it was new.

Going to be interesting to see what they find once they open her up. I sure hope the clutch has not been slicked up with fluid but you have prepared me for other areas that might become a factor. Murphy and I shall see what happens. Thank you for the heads up.
 
So during all this I stop to ponder.......

I use my clutch and gears far more then my brakes. I virtually never go through the gears up and not go back down through them as I reduce speed.

I wonder if my driving habits have contributed greatly to the slave cyl. going "kaput"?

Maybe I need to learn to just kick her in neutral and use my brakes.:shrug01:
 
Don't know my friend. I have down shifted all my life when slowing down. My stock clutch lasted me 100k +. I think the leaking slave that took out the new clutch was a freak of nature. :shrug01:
 
Good input 'cause it would be really difficult to change this many years of a given set of driving habits.

Thanks
 
I know I've changed my driving habits somewhat when I learned that every time you push the clutch in you are putting pressure on the thrust bearing on the crank. I used to sit at stoplights with the car in gear and the clutch depressed the entire time. No longer.
 
I'm not sure what the advantage is having the slave designed as it is. I've driven many cars/trucks with the old style hydraulic clutch that just actuated the clutch fork that worked fust fine. If those failed you just replace it(usually mounted on the firewall)and bleed it and go. What did they accomplish with the new design, other than they make about $1000.00-$1500.00 every time one goes out.....
 
Heck, I don't know. But certainly having the slave cylinder around the input shaft and placed directly against the fingers of the clutch plate would require less travel than a pivot style fork. You would think that this would also make for a faster clutch engagement and shifting this way.

Interesting to note that GM purposely put a restriction in the hydraulics line between the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. From what I understand, that was to reduce the ability of drivers to do fast power shifts and possibly damage the drivetrain.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/2969763-drilling-out-clutch-hydraulic-line.html
 
One of the "upgrade mods" for LS1 hot rod crowd is to increase the hole diameter (drill it out) in the inlet fitting going into the slave for increased fluid flow. I'm not sure if this changes any thing because the fluid is pressurized going into the slave and it only holds so much volume.

I opted to not get to carried away with my daily driver for 10 years and now my weekend Cougar Chaser, if the wife will let me. :hehehe:
 
So during all this I stop to ponder.......

I use my clutch and gears far more then my brakes. I virtually never go through the gears up and not go back down through them as I reduce speed.

I wonder if my driving habits have contributed greatly to the slave cyl. going "kaput"?

Maybe I need to learn to just kick her in neutral and use my brakes.:shrug01:

Hey Ken,

I too engine brake much more than use the brake pedal. Maybe it is just habit going through the gears or some influence from doing high speed events. There maybe something to the failure of the slave cylinder as it relates to the number of time the clutch pedal is depressed, but to be honest, I think it is as much related to age of the part as anything. Seals don't last forever regardless of the usage. At least I hope that's the case because I don't see myself changing my driving habits after all these years!

Rich
 
Ya know I heard someplace that it was an age issue also. Peek only has 24K or so showing but she is 10 years old.

Parts are slated to arrive tomorrow so that means she goes in the shop Tuesday. They say it's a two day job so (being the optimist) I figure it'll be next week before she done. I just hope she is done correctly and doesn't start blowing codes all over the place. I have such faith!

We shall see.:toetap05:
 
Allrighty then. Peek A Blue is in the shop. Parts arrived yesterday. Going to have both the Slave and Master replaced and I hope the clutch hasn't been soaked. We shall see. Thank heaven I'm such a calm guy when it comes to care of my Corvette by shops (NOT).:eek::eek:
 
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Your a smart man Kap. All the hype, promises and discussion about satisfied customers goes out the window when they assign some Bubba to work on your Baby.
 
Your a smart man Kap. All the hype, promises and discussion about satisfied customers goes out the window when they assign some Bubba to work on your Baby.

Picked up "Peek" on Friday around 1630 and drove her home. GREAT repair job. Clutch feels great and is actually smoother then ever before. Drove her to at Port Corvette show and back Saturday and she's super.

Now I have a very good mechanic in Winter Haven. Yeah.......:thumbsup:
 
Glad it worked out and you are happy with the repair.

Just out of curiosity, what did the repair wind up costing you?
 
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