Brake issues, back here again - Page 4

Kap142 · 03-11-2007, 01:24 PM

From Nytro that logically all four corners (wheels) do heat up just because disc's do. I don't think the dragging is front end. Feels (although I'm not sure) like it's more from the rear and the only smoke I had was definitely rear wheels.

Going to do a parking brake rebuild to eliminate that as a possible source and go from there.

ynkedad · 03-11-2007, 02:17 PM

Obviously...keep up informed.

ynkedad · 03-11-2007, 02:17 PM

Obviously...keep us informed.

Kap142 · 03-12-2007, 02:06 AM

Could I be looking at a completely different problem like maybe the rear end going out?

Nytro · 03-12-2007, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kap142

Could I be looking at a completely different problem like maybe the rear end going out?

If there was a problem with your diff you would be experiencing a bunch of different things. First, if a diff is going due to a lack of fluid it would be noisy. The bearings would be singing away. The ring gear would be howling especially when you let off the gas at highway speeds, if the clutches were going you would experience a chatter rounding cornors and it would be just plain noisy. You said you experienced smoke from the wheels, gotta believe it's the brakes, however it probably can't hurt to check the fluid level in the diff. If you need to add fluid make sure that you use fluid compatable for posi. GM makes a great additive for posi units part number 1052358. This additive is the best and the only rear end additive I would recommend. Bout $7.00 at any GM dealer.

Heres a few tips before you start the emergency brake overhaul. As you start to change the pieces, one at a time, take a piece off, then compare it to the new piece that replaces it, ie; when you take off the rear emergency cable lay it out and make sure the replacement is the same, don't just assume that everything is packaged correct. This will eliminate something being packaged wrong leading to new problems. Also when you get the rotors off take the new shoes and place them in the drum and see how they sit against the curved part of the drum. This will give you an indication if the rotor drums are a bit out of round. If they are you might have to find a machine shop who has a drum cutter and can true them up, or replace them. I believe all 4 shoes are the same so make sure you check them out against the old shoes. (On regular drum brakes there are primary and secondary shoes.) And lastly as you take apart the shoes do one side at a time, that way if you forget how something goes you can look at the other side to ensure proper installation. Good luck and soon enough you will be able to call yourself a brake expert with experience.

Kap142 · 03-12-2007, 07:56 AM

OK based on what you say the differental is ok although I will check the fluid level.

I am concerned that with it taking 7-10 days for the rebuild kit to arrive that if it does not resolve the problem I wont have enough time to order in calipers for the rear without missing the Ecklers show.

What will I see on the rear pads if a rear caliper is bad? I saw nothing disturbing when I had them apart on Saturday. Also found that a larger sized socket does very nicely holding both pads in place, mimics the thickness of a disc rather well.

Obviously I'm trying to cover as many bases as possible in the time I have between now and the end of the month. It's worth pulling the rear brakes apart again just to reinspect pads. As you said Muskegon Brake has a great deal on SS sleeved calipers but they'll need shipping time too if needed

Ken

ynkedad · 03-12-2007, 10:03 AM

Since you have time before your parts come in...Couldn't you remove a tire etc, etc...exposing the caliper to see if it's stuck or sticks.? And or While you're looking at the caliper, have the wife depress the brake peddle, to actuate the caliper, then let her foot off the peddle and see if it goes all of the way back in.

~Ray

Kap142 · 03-12-2007, 11:28 AM

I can and will double check that function but is's hard to see anything 'cause the pads sit against the rotors anyway. I will be able to feel them release if they do. I think the calipers all the way around are rather new as all still have the gold iridiated color to the pistons and the pads appear virtually new also. I saw no unusual wear on those pads when I had it apart last Saturday.

I ordered the E brake rebuild and have cancelled the Corvette Central order 'cause they're back ordered. Mid America has it on it's way and will be here Wednesday with expedited shipping. Tomorrow evening after work I'll put her up on stands and pull the rear wheels, reinspect the calipers and prep her as much as I can for the rebuild.

Talked at length with Nytro this morning and he still believes it's E-brake related not caliper. He gave me numerous things to look at and for as I go.
At least with parts arriving Wed. I'll have plenty of time to make sure I have resolved the dilemma.

Kap142 · 03-14-2007, 08:23 AM

Emergency brake rebuild kit arrives today. Took the rotors to a machine shop to have them turned and trued. Found out that they were already
.13000 below min machining spec and run out was at .25000. Ordered new Wagner rotors.

Called Jerry the tech dude at Corvette Central with my brake problem and he says probably rotor problem.

So this evening I'll rebuild the EB system and put it all back together with the new rotors and see what the results are.

jeeze!

ynkedad · 03-14-2007, 08:41 AM

Seems like this could easily turn into a RANT!

I sure do hope this is the fixes your problem!
Best of luck.

~Ray