CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT - Page 4

**Rich Z** · 05-16-2006, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveGel

Removing

1:Remove the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the accessory drive belt.
4:Remove the accessory drive belt from the pulleys and tensioner.
5:Slowly release tension on the drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of all the pulleys.
Installation Procedure

Installing

1:Route the accessory drive belt around all the pulleys except the water pump pulley and tensioner.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt tensioner.
4:Install the accessory drive belt under the water pump pulley.
5:Install the accessory drive belt onto the drive belt tensioner.
Slowly release the tension.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Install the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
8:Inspect the accessory drive belt for correct alignment.

OK, which bolt here is the "drive belt tensioner bolt? I want to be certain before I apply some pressure on the wrong bolt. I was looking at it today, and I'm just not certain at all. I would think the bolt in the center of the wheel on the tensioner, but I would think it would just loosen up the wheel itself. Hate to sound like a goomba, but the last time I changed out a belt or alternator was something like 30 years ago.

**Rich Z** · 05-16-2006, 06:38 PM

Well this crap is going to drive me nuts........

Today I started up the Z so I could let it run and see if it would just drain down the battery running in the driveway. Cranked up the engine and turned on the headlights, figuring that should do it. Battery voltage was reading 10.9 volts and fluctuated a bit from 10.8 to 11.0. I sat there for a while, but didn't see a gradual drop in voltage like I would have thought I would see. So I figured maybe I should go get the meter and actually check the voltage at the battery. So while leaving it running, I popped the hood latch and then got out of the car and closed the door. I just happened to glance back at the DIC and saw the voltage NOW climbing rapidly up to 13.5 volts and then stayed there.

Now what the hell.........

Do I just have a loose connection somewhere? Since there are no faults showing up concerning the electrical system, is it maybe just the METER itself that is showing me a bogus reading?

I guess the procedure for fixing this problem, if it shows up while I am driving, is to just pull off the road, pop the hood and open the driver's side door...........

exile · 05-16-2006, 06:41 PM

Hey Rich (Mongoose), you're short'in out your Z while sitting in it. Dry your backside before entering

............Tom

**Rich Z** · 05-16-2006, 06:45 PM

Eh? I didn't think about that one. Buttocks pressure on the driver's seat may be the cause?

EatRice · 05-16-2006, 07:54 PM

The tensioner is the top pulley on the left and there is no bolt to remove. You place a socket on the bolt head and move the tensioner inward....away from you...to loosen the tension on the belt. I use a breaker bar so I get leverage.

Your inconsitent problem could be a few things. Loose ground, bad alternator, bad voltage gauge, or the car not talking to the alternator properly. Your idea of using your own voltage meter is a good one. I would check voltage at the battery and at the alternator.

**Rich Z** · 05-16-2006, 08:47 PM

Just to make sure, I put an arrow to the bolt I think you mean. In the diagram, I would move that bolt to the right to loosen it, and to the left to tighten it. Right?

MADN3SS · 05-16-2006, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Z

Just to make sure, I put an arrow to the bolt I think you mean. In the diagram, I would move that bolt to the right to loosen it, and to the left to tighten it. Right?

It just moves the whole pulley so you can slip the belt on or off.

EatRice · 05-16-2006, 09:30 PM

MADNESS is correct. Nothing acutally loosens up except the belt. Don't try to turn that nut just use it for leverage to move the pulley. You will see it is not difficult to move the tensioner.

**Rich Z** · 05-16-2006, 09:53 PM

OK, thanks. The only long arm wrench I have is a 3/4 inch one I have. I don't think the sockets are small enough for that bolt however. I might run to Sears tomorrow and look at a 1/2 inch socket set. For some reason I don't have one. Got 3/8ths and 3/4s but no 1/2. Might check out the torque wenches as well while I am there.

I think my alternator is due in on Monday. I had hoped it would be here by Friday, but no such luck, apparently. It's coming from California via UPS ground.

But I'm going to drive the car anyway in the meantime. Now that I know the secret is to open the hood and then open and close the driver's side door to clear the problem, I feel pretty good about it....

Not......

**Rich Z** · 05-18-2006, 12:44 PM

I was over on CF last night and found this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1372316

Indicates that a lot of dash related electrical gremlins can be caused by the ignition switch. Coincidentally, two days ago when I went to start my Z, I turned the ignition switch and nothing. I tried it again and it started right up.

A new switch costs about $50, so I am going to replace it. Of course, the local dealer doesn't have one in stock, so it won't be until next week before it shows up. Man, talk about the shotgun method of fixing a problem.

I drove the car around for a couple of hours yesterday and not a peep of a problem.