• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

427 engine (part 2) - RHS block

OK, I dropped the inspection panel on the driver's side fuel tank, and here's a look there at the hose connections going to the tank and stock pump plate.
fuel_system_09.jpg


fuel_system_15.jpg


fuel_system_16.jpg



This looks like a spliced into wiring harness here coming from the above pictured gas tank area.
fuel_system_17.jpg


Looks like someone put this cable harness a bit too close to the exhaust system here...
fuel_system_18.jpg



Continued...
 
Over above the gas tank on the passenger side is some connectors and wiring cables..
fuel_system_13.jpg


fuel_system_12.jpg


Here's a mess of cables and braided hoses running over top of the differential.
fuel_system_14.jpg


And last but not least, images of the Aeromotive pump itself.
fuel_system_19.jpg


fuel_system_20.jpg
 
Oh yeah, looks like I have a minor oil leak here....

oil_leak_01.jpg


What is that thing, and what's needed to remove it? I'm reluctant to just put a wrench on that plastic looking body and tugging....
 
I'm not sure exactly what this is, but one of the red wires running to the fuse box goes to it...

connector_01.jpg


Here'a a little better pic showing the apparently spliced harness going to the stock fuel pump plate.
fuel_system_30.jpg


And another pic of the stock fuel filter..
fuel_system_31.jpg


And two more pics showing the mess underneath the rear end of the car where the Aeromotive fuel pump and the turbos are playing together. Is it a real good idea having that fuel pump so close to the turbos and waste gates like you see here?
fuel_system_32.jpg


fuel_system_33.jpg
 
So does anyone see any sort of fuel filter on an active fuel line in all of this mess? Or do I need to just assume that Harwood didn't even bother with putting one in?
 
Well, I've been looking over the install instructions for the Aeromotive a1000 fuel pump. Some things noted there are interesting, to say the least...

A high capacity, 100 micron fuel filter must be installed between the fuel tank and pump inlet. We recommend an Aeromotive p/n 12304 filter. Call us for info.

To use this pump in your vehicle’s fuel system, we strongly recommend the following:
  • A by-pass style fuel pressure regulator must be used in the system.
  • Utilize AN-10 size high pressure fuel lines, fittings and o-rings for all connections from the fuel tank pickup to the fuel rails in the engine compartment. (Call Aeromotive for availability.)
  • For long term driving applications where continuous run times exceed 30 minutes and fuel capacity is less then 10 gallons, Aeromotive recommends the installation of a pump voltage control module, Aeromotive p/n 16302.
  • Gravity feed the pump by mounting it lower than and as close as possible to the fuel tank.
  • If you are using a stock fuel tank, install a reservoir style sump in the bottom-rear of your fuel tank. Exercise extreme caution and follow all manufacturer’s recommendations when installing a reservoir style sump.
  • If you choose not to install a reservoir style sump, then you must install a high flow capacity fuel tank pickup.(Installing a high flow pickup instead of a reservoir style sump may shorten the fuel pump life and cause driveability problems. When using a pickup, you should maintain at least ½ tank of fuel in the vehicle at all times, to avoid possible engine &/or fuel pump damage.)
Failure to follow the above recommendations may result in fuel leakage, bursting of the fuel lines, poor vehicle performance and/or decreased fuel pump life! Improper installation will void all warranties for this product!

Note: Failure to mount the pump lower than and close to the fuel tank may cause the pump to run dry, resulting in extreme pump wear! Make sure the pump is located lower than and as close as possible to the fuel tank, so that the pump is always supplied with fuel!

Note: Be sure to route all fuel lines clear of any moving suspension or drivetrain components, and any exhaust components! Protect fuel lines from abrasion and road obstructions or debris.

10. Locate the OEM fuel pump supply wires, located near the OEM fuel pump mounting location. Using that supply wire, connect the Aeromotive fuel pump as shown in the following diagram.
Click to expand...

Although I'm not quite experienced enough to be able to easily tell AN line and fitting sizes by eye, it appears to me that there is a -6 line coming into the Aeromotive pump, and a -8 leaving the pump to the fuel rail. As best as I can tell, there is NO fuel filter between the tank and the pump.

If that is REALLY a -6 line coming from the tank to the pump, quite likely that caused the failure of the first unit. Probably wasn't enough fuel flowing into the pump to cool it down sufficiently, plus it just flat out wore out the pump prematurely. Kind of like using a straw that is far too small in diameter when you buy a milkshake. And it quite likely will soon cause the death of this second one that Aaron put in to replace that first failed one. Now one question comes to my mind here. Didn't Aaron read the install instructions to know the hose diameter was all wrong for the pump? And how about noting a fuel filter? I thought Aaron told me that he has installed LOTS of these Aeromotive pumps. So why did those particular details escape his notice?

So, I'm on borrowed time, in my opinion, with this second pump before it too will likely fail.
 
You can measure with existing english wrenches just dont use steel ones on the fittings. THe AN -X is system for Army/Navy specifications. However the numbers actually correspond to 16ths of an inch so a AN-6 is 6/16" or 3/8". AN-8 is 8/16" or 1/2". An AN-10 would be 10/16" or 5/8". Hope this helps to at least measure what you have vs. what is called for.
 
I just went out and eyeballed the relative height of the pump compared to the fuel tank and the pump is about level with the TOP of the fuel tank.

Yeah, no wonder the first pump burned up.

While I was out underneath the car, I was looking at the fuel lines keeping in mind heat that would come from the headers and expose those fuel lines to that heat. Sheesh, what a mess I've got on my hands. Some of the fuel lines are running about three inches above the headers, and certainly the heat within the tunnel plate area above the exhaust is going to be pretty darn hot as well. And I also have to do something about that battery cable running down to the starter that is laying directly on a fuel line. I'm sorry, but am just having extreme difficulty comprehending why Aaron let me drive my car home in the shape it was in. And he commented to me that he would have absolutely NO qualms about driving that car all the way to California. Yeah, right.... Somewhere in Louisiana there probably would have been a blue fire ball on the highway noted in the news..

Well, I've really got my work cut out for me getting this mess cleaned up. The Aeromotive pump HAS to go, as it is entirely inappropriate for me car, PLUS installed completely incorrectly. It's as if Harwood didn't even bother reading the install instructions. And Aaron had to have had his eyes closed when he put in the replacement pump not to notice problems and at least make the car safe to drive by getting those hoses away from sources of heat.

And as far as I can tell, there is NO fuel filter anywhere to be found in the fuel system. If there is one, it would have to be up above the tunnel plate, which would make absolutely NO sense, since it would be impossible to replace the filter without removing the exhaust system and the tunnel plate to get to it.

This is just SO damned unbelievable and incomprehensible to me....
 
mickeystoysz16 said:
You can measure with existing english wrenches just dont use steel ones on the fittings. THe AN -X is system for Army/Navy specifications. However the numbers actually correspond to 16ths of an inch so a AN-6 is 6/16" or 3/8". AN-8 is 8/16" or 1/2". An AN-10 would be 10/16" or 5/8". Hope this helps to at least measure what you have vs. what is called for.
Click to expand...

Yes, where I first went wrong with those measurements is that it indicates INSIDE diameter, and not outside diameter. The problem is, the very first time you are exposed to this problem of figuring out what you have on assembled hoses, you really can't tell what the inside dimensions are. So, of course, when I first looked at a hose, I measured OD and ordered -8 hose and fittings. Which was wrong. -6 hose is about 1/2 inch OD.

I bought a braided hose cutting tool which works excellently making a clean cut on the hose and braids. Putting the fittings to the end of the hose is really actually easy to do, so I don't have any qualms whatsoever of tackling running braid hoses anywhere. I just need to make certain that I have the correct sized hose and fittings that are compatible with the fuel usage needs of my engine, so I don't restrict fuel flow and cause any of the cylinders to lean out under WOT. The PCM won't KNOW that the engine is fuel starved. It will only be able to try to compensate for the RESULTS, which might then be too late.
 
The injectors are so sensitive to any particles in the fuel.....hope none got anything in them. Call me anytime your stuck on something or need help.
 
Yeah, best I can tell, there is NO filter in the fuel line at all. I'm going to try to trace the fuel line end to end as much as I can to see if I can find a filter anywhere.

Thanks for the offer of help. I'm actually getting a LOT of help over on CorvetteForum.
 
I think removing the upper ball joint is the way I am leaning to tackle the half shaft replacements. But I'll have to see if the upper A frame can drop low enough for the knuckle to clear the ball joint stud without the A frame hitting against the shock. I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this with removing as few bolts as possible and not being any harder than removing MORE bolts.

The half shafts came in today, and I was surprised to find that the tools I ordered for the suspension surgery to get to the shafts showed up as well. So, I may very well tackle this tomorrow.

As for the fuel line issue, I took a look at the fuse box and it appears that the red wire running back to the Aeromotive pump is plugged into the fuse slot that the original fuel pump fuse should go. The relay mentioned is still there, apparently, as shown in the below pic.

So is this good or bad?

fuse_box_03.jpg


I'm not sure how badly the wiring harness(s) for the fuel system has been hacked up for me to bring it back to stock.
 
you don't think he was using the factory fuel pump to feed the Aeromotive fuel pump do you?

since it is a push pump and not a pull pump and isn't mounted below the tank and it isn't plumbed into a sump.....
 
Benjamin said:
you don't think he was using the factory fuel pump to feed the Aeromotive fuel pump do you?

since it is a push pump and not a pull pump and isn't mounted below the tank and it isn't plumbed into a sump.....
Click to expand...

Well, I really don't know. After I get the half-shafts done, I'm going to be getting some containers and draining the fuel tank. BTW, will a siphon drain the passenger side tank as well as the driver's side? Reason I ask, is that it seems to me that I smell gasoline at the passenger side tank.

In any event, I'm going to be pulling out the fuel pump to see what I can see. Not that I'm going to really know what the heck I am looking at, however.

Right now I just want to get the fuel system back to stock wiring and using the braided fuel lines as much as possible so I have a base to start from in order to figure out what I need to do. Right now I can't really discuss a replacement strategy with anyone, simply because I really don't know what I have working and not working in the car. I don't know what Harwood did originally, and don't know what Aaron might have done afterwards. I know Aaron told me he was going to rewire the STS system, and the scavenge pump used to work off of the fuel pump circuitry. That now is directly wired to the fuse block too, just like the Aeromotive fuel pump. That's the other red wire in the photo. So there really is no telling what the heck has been changed away from stock after both shops have had their hands in there.
 
Hi Rich:
If your going to start from scratch with the wiring of the fuel system, get a Helms manuel that has your specific year, l the wiring schematics are there. Helms will have the compleate wiring schematics for the entire car...
 
ironhorse said:
Hi Rich:
If your going to start from scratch with the wiring of the fuel system, get a Helms manuel that has your specific year, l the wiring schematics are there. Helms will have the compleate wiring schematics for the entire car...
Click to expand...

I do have the GM service manuals for my car, but honestly whoever it is that made up the index on that set needs to be taken out back and beaten soundly with a two by four. There is NOTHING in there on key words such as "fuel tank", "fuel pump", "fuses", etc., etc... So you pretty much have to scan through all three volumes to find whatever the heck it is you are looking for. So I have yet to find the pages that will give me a clue about where to start looking to figure out how badly the wiring has been butchered from the fuse box to the fuel pump.

I contacted Aeromotive to see if they could give me any clues or offer suggestions, and they recommended that I replace my fuel tanks with 2003 or newer and put the A1000 inside the gas tank. I didn't even want to think about how something like that would go.

Then I've been having correspondence with that guy Lonnie at LonnniesPerformance. At first he was insisting on a phone conversation and I just knew that wouldn't go well, since I couldn't tell him ANYTHING on the phone about what I was dealing with. So I sent him a bunch of photos so he could get an idea of what I have and perhaps help me to figure out how to take the wiring and plumbing back to stock. He pretty much blew me off, saying that when I get it figured out to call him, or else take the car to a competent shop so he could talk to THEM about what I have in the car. Yeah, like finding a competent shop is easy. If I would have done that in the first place, I wouldn't be in the mess I am in right now.

So last night I was in a pretty foul mood over this fuel system crap. Enough so that I woke up with an excruciating headache this morning and not sure I have enough functioning brain cells to tackle the half shafts today. Plus I'm not sure working on the car when I am in this foul mood would be a smart thing to do. If the half shafts give me even more headaches, I will quite likely just pull the car outside, cut the fuel lines and throw a damned match at the car and be done with it. I guess this wouldn't be the first time in history that someone was at the one yard line and decided to punt because the defense looked too strong.
 
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