AH yeah. Well, I'll shut up. :lmao: I guess my boost knowledge was exceeded before reading this thread. :banghead: :banghead:
Yeah, no worries. My "knowledge" is being tested all of the time...
AH yeah. Well, I'll shut up. :lmao: I guess my boost knowledge was exceeded before reading this thread. :banghead: :banghead:
The blow off valve is what relieves or "bolws-off" pressure when the throttle blade is shut to avoid the pressure damaging it is intake components.
Thw wastegates regulate the exhaust gasses that spin the turbos. The wastegate does two things, one is the most obvious in controlling the amount of boost by bleeding off exhaust gasses as the pressure meets a pre-set level, but it is doing so not by relieving boost, but by bypassing the exhaust that spins the turbo.
And to be certain I understand the mechanics of this, the wastegate does absolutely nothing until the boost has exceeded the rating of the spring. Up to that point, all exhaust is routed through the turbos. Is that correct?
Pan oil leak. You mentioned that the pan bolts were stainless and that the allen heads were rounded out.. I am wondering if it would be possible to drill the heads out enough to silver solder or braze a short bolt onto them and then turn them out without removing the engine. Only you know if there is enough clearance to do this.
It looks pretty tight in there with the engine sitting on that cradle. I'm sure you would have to drill through the cradle to get to some of the bolts. With the block being aluminum, I'm guessing that aaron doesn't want to risk stripping out the threads. If I remember correctly, Harwood had to cut slots in the bolts holding the timing chain cover in place as those bolts were rounded out as well.
But even after the bolts are out, I'm not sure how easy it would be to get to the oil pan gasket. Aaron wants to put a sealant on both sides of them (like in the old days when we used to use Permatex on all of the gaskets. If this had been done originally, quite likely I wouldn't have an oil leak there right now.
Back in the 80's when I worked for the Chevy dealer there was a guy in Tallahassee that specialized in removing broken, stripped, or cross threaded bolts. He had all the special equipment to reach any bolts on an engine. He charged around $150.00 per trip IIRC, but he always got it done. MicRight was the name of the company.
I don't buy it,unless the turbos had been starved of lubricant!~!!You sure Deadwood didn't do a swap on you?~??:banghead::banghead::banghead:Do I need to have the car struck by a lightning bolt as a sure sign that I'm just not destined to drive that car again?
I don't buy it,unless the turbos had been starved of lubricant!~!!You sure Deadwood didn't do a swap on you?~??:banghead::banghead::banghead:
As far as being Lightning Struck,Your in luck I'm purdy well versed in Lightning Struck Corvettes!~!!:thumbsup:
I don't buy it,unless the turbos had been starved of lubricant!~!!You sure Deadwood didn't do a swap on you?~??:banghead::banghead::banghead:
I kind of agree with you Junk but for a different reason. I know nothing about turbos but the car has been there about 5 months, it's been driven and tested but still these obvious problems keep popping up.
It appears to me that it has been scheduled as a side job up there and after this amount of time I would give them a little more time, maybe 2 weeks and then I would find someone that will get it done.
What difference is another couple of months going to make at this point? It's already been nearly 16 months since I drove the car into Harwood's shop originally. Getting close to 5 months alone since it was towed to Aaron's shop.
In any event, I just hope Aaron isn't charging me a flat hourly rate on this or he is going to wind up owning that car, as I am sure that I am at least sane (or would that actually BE insane?) enough to just walk away from it if the bill gets too high.