• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

Brake issues, back here again

And the results are

Just finished up (no test drive yet) wheel bearings are good, RR disc came off easily and no obvious dragging there. no discoloration, no cracking, no broken parts. Cleaned, buffed and reinstalled all parts. Reduced adjustment on RR shoe 'cause I don't care it they don't make contact just don't want them to make contact.

LR similar but had to tap off the rotor with a mallet, no biggie, Did the same, clean, buffed re-assembled and backed off the adjustment on the shoe.

I too was glad to find the bearings solid and tight.

I jumped in because of your guidance. Thank you and I do so hope this puts to bed the brake issue.

Ken:yesnod: :yesnod:
 
Not resolvd but.....

I think I have it understood.

About 2 months ago I purchased and installed a PB system from Corvette Central. It's the system (so they say) that you'd have got if you ordered PB from the factory

My guess at this point is that for unknown reasons the new system is keeping the whole brake system under pressure so that the brakes are piratically applied all the time.

Anybody lived through this situation before?

Nitro and guys what so you think?

Ken:confused:
 
Kap...

I sat and read your posts as well as nytro's yesterday. I sat here thinking for awhile and was wondering how all 4 were warm if it were a ebrake problem.?
Not to mention, the focus was mostly on the rear end and it's components.
At the risk of sounding like a :bigear:, I didn't reply with my questions or theory.:shrug01:

Which would have been directed towards a faulty master cylinder or something in that area like the PB. I'm no mechanic (shade tree at best), but it stands to reason, that if all 4 were warm/hot then there's pressure in the system making the brakes drag.IMO.
Anyway...I'm thinking you may have discovered the problem:thumbsup: .
Like I said, i'm no mechanic, so hopefully nytro will chime in again with his expertise.:thumbsup:
~Ray
 
Just re read...

Post #17.
I assumed you were referring to all 4 brakes being "farking warm" when you referred to all 4 corners.:confused:

~Ray
 
Yep I was

A thought too is prior to the problem I paid little attention to whether the hubs on each wheel were warm to hot to the touch normally. Disc's do heat up.

And I, like you, are at very best a shade tree parts changer certainly not a mechanic.

Nytro do your books tell whether the proportioning valve on a PB car is different then on a non PB car?

Gotta get it fixed before Ecklers

Ken
 
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I looked at the brake kit on Corvette Centrals website part number 193121 and it looks pretty cut and dried to me. Make sure that is the kit number you got.

The rotors and hubs and calipers will get hot even after a short driving distance as the pads are always in contact with the rotors. Because of the friction they will be hot to the touch. Hot enough to burn your finger for sure. If there is a problem with a front caliper the car would pull to that side when you step on the brake. If a rear caliper were dragging you would see it on the pad surface. In reading your posts it appears that your problems started when you adjusted your brake cables, so I would think that the problem is somewhere in that area. I don't think it is your calipers. It might be a defective master cylinder but I personally think it has something to do with the emergency brakes. Now the only way to find out what is wrong is a process of elimination.

Heres what I would do. I would get the complete parking brake kit, either part number 192088 for stainless or 192164 for steel from Corvette Central if you like. The reason I would do this is you get all the stuff you need to overhaul the parking brake system, the springs, shoes, adjusters, cables everything. This would accomplish two things, one you probably will never have to worry about your parking brake system again, and two you eliminate these parts from the mix as being the cause rather than replacing one at a time.. The only componant left would be the rotors. I would look closely at your parking brake flanges (corvette central part number 582032) and make sure none of the holes are elongated or messed up. Those would be tough to replace as the spindal would have to be removed so I would inspect them very carefully and compare them to the pictires. By doing this you will have completely restored your emergancy brakes to new and eliminated them from the list of posibilities as the problem. Now when you install the brake shoes you want to apply a little white lithium brake grease to where the side of the shoe rides on the brake plate. Also you want to apply a small amount to the adjuster threads and the other end where it rotates on the stud to ensure they spin freely. USE THE GREASE SPARINGLY, and be sure you don't get it on the brake shoe surface. (an old trick) As I said these emergency brake systems are poor at best and can be a real problem. They use the same system on the C5's and they are a constant problem also. Once completed I would never use the emergency brake again.

A couple of questions about the P/B install. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it ? You say you replaced a caliper. Did it have one bleeder screw or two. After installation did you bleed all four calipers starting with the furthest away from the master cyl, r/r, then l/r, then r/f, then l/f ?

From everything you posted I would say there is something wrong with the emergency system for sure. Corvette Central has a Tech line for help. Call them, explain the problem, what you did and so forth and see what they say.
 
Lets give it a go...

I'll place an order with Corvette Central today as you suggest. I'll get the complete rebuild system. I agree it'll at least eliminate that area and hopefully your right on the money.

In reference to the PB install, I had on of our fleet mechanics work with me on that project. Did bench bleed the master cylinder, new caliper (LF) had the single bleeder. Yes on the bleeding we followed the sequence you stated and repeatedly bleed even leaving a few minutes to allow air to accumulate before doing a double check to make sure air was out and fluid was clean and clear.

Just placed the order with Corvette Central. I guess we shall see
 
Forgive me for picking your brain...

I agree there is/was a problem with the e brake, but how does that affect the front brakes from dragging and or getting "Farking warm":confused:
My intensions are to learn from this, that is why I ask :thumbsup: .

Respect,
~Ray
 
I have learned...

From Nytro that logically all four corners (wheels) do heat up just because disc's do. I don't think the dragging is front end. Feels (although I'm not sure) like it's more from the rear and the only smoke I had was definitely rear wheels.

Going to do a parking brake rebuild to eliminate that as a possible source and go from there.

:ack2:
 
Ugly thought

Could I be looking at a completely different problem like maybe the rear end going out?
 
Kap142 said:
Could I be looking at a completely different problem like maybe the rear end going out?
Click to expand...

If there was a problem with your diff you would be experiencing a bunch of different things. First, if a diff is going due to a lack of fluid it would be noisy. The bearings would be singing away. The ring gear would be howling especially when you let off the gas at highway speeds, if the clutches were going you would experience a chatter rounding cornors and it would be just plain noisy. You said you experienced smoke from the wheels, gotta believe it's the brakes, however it probably can't hurt to check the fluid level in the diff. If you need to add fluid make sure that you use fluid compatable for posi. GM makes a great additive for posi units part number 1052358. This additive is the best and the only rear end additive I would recommend. Bout $7.00 at any GM dealer.

Heres a few tips before you start the emergency brake overhaul. As you start to change the pieces, one at a time, take a piece off, then compare it to the new piece that replaces it, ie; when you take off the rear emergency cable lay it out and make sure the replacement is the same, don't just assume that everything is packaged correct. This will eliminate something being packaged wrong leading to new problems. Also when you get the rotors off take the new shoes and place them in the drum and see how they sit against the curved part of the drum. This will give you an indication if the rotor drums are a bit out of round. If they are you might have to find a machine shop who has a drum cutter and can true them up, or replace them. I believe all 4 shoes are the same so make sure you check them out against the old shoes. (On regular drum brakes there are primary and secondary shoes.) And lastly as you take apart the shoes do one side at a time, that way if you forget how something goes you can look at the other side to ensure proper installation. Good luck and soon enough you will be able to call yourself a brake expert with experience.
 
OK based on what you say the differental is ok although I will check the fluid level.

I am concerned that with it taking 7-10 days for the rebuild kit to arrive that if it does not resolve the problem I wont have enough time to order in calipers for the rear without missing the Ecklers show.

What will I see on the rear pads if a rear caliper is bad? I saw nothing disturbing when I had them apart on Saturday. Also found that a larger sized socket does very nicely holding both pads in place, mimics the thickness of a disc rather well.

Obviously I'm trying to cover as many bases as possible in the time I have between now and the end of the month. It's worth pulling the rear brakes apart again just to reinspect pads. As you said Muskegon Brake has a great deal on SS sleeved calipers but they'll need shipping time too if needed

Ken:confused:
 
Ok, Just to be sure...

:hmm: Since you have time before your parts come in...Couldn't you remove a tire etc, etc...exposing the caliper to see if it's stuck or sticks.? And or While you're looking at the caliper, have the wife depress the brake peddle, to actuate the caliper, then let her foot off the peddle and see if it goes all of the way back in.:shrug01:

~Ray
 
Sure, kinda

I can and will double check that function but is's hard to see anything 'cause the pads sit against the rotors anyway. I will be able to feel them release if they do. I think the calipers all the way around are rather new as all still have the gold iridiated color to the pistons and the pads appear virtually new also. I saw no unusual wear on those pads when I had it apart last Saturday.

I ordered the E brake rebuild and have cancelled the Corvette Central order 'cause they're back ordered. Mid America has it on it's way and will be here Wednesday with expedited shipping. Tomorrow evening after work I'll put her up on stands and pull the rear wheels, reinspect the calipers and prep her as much as I can for the rebuild.

Talked at length with Nytro this morning and he still believes it's E-brake related not caliper. He gave me numerous things to look at and for as I go.
At least with parts arriving Wed. I'll have plenty of time to make sure I have resolved the dilemma.:thumbsup:
 
This is turning into a novel

Emergency brake rebuild kit arrives today. Took the rotors to a machine shop to have them turned and trued. Found out that they were already
.13000 below min machining spec and run out was at .25000. Ordered new Wagner rotors.

Called Jerry the tech dude at Corvette Central with my brake problem and he says probably rotor problem.

So this evening I'll rebuild the EB system and put it all back together with the new rotors and see what the results are.

jeeze!:eek: :shrug01: :eek:
 
Man o man...

:nonod: Seems like this could easily turn into a RANT!

I sure do hope this is the fixes your problem!
Best of luck.

~Ray
 
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