• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

C4 A/C work now due

gpcustoms

New member
Ok,..so who knows of a decent shop for a retro fit for my Vette?
New motor,trans,exterior and interior now needs to be kept cool so along the build I lost the charge and am now going the 134 route.
Would like to stay around central Florida.I am up in Deland area so any leads would be very helpful.
Have all the parts minus new hoses to get it done!
Best regards
Mark
 
OK, A/C completed and I see a serious increese in running temps over my old compressor.
What running temps are you all having?,...185-195 without A/C and as high as 220 with,.....
I would prefer cooler running temps but see that GM calls for 210-260f.
How hot are yours running?
What mods if any to bring temps down?
Here is mine.
I)3 core aluminum rad.
II)180f T stat.
III)2 12" fans(pullers) and one pusher set at 195f
IV)Installing a new performance water pump for the weekend but would like to know the best running temps for unrestricked C4s(with and without air).
Thanks
Mark
 
Your temp range is normal. The fans are programed to come on at 228. Remember if you try to reduce the operating temp from what GM set up you will start to have other problems. For instance the ECM reads the temp of the water pump along with the engine and adjusts the fuel etc based on what it is programmed to see from those sensors. If the temp is too low the ECM will poor more fuel into the engine trying to get the temp up to what it wants to see and there goes your fuel mileage. On my 93 it is not uncommon to have the temp go to 235 when stalled in traffic on a hot summer day with the ac on. Any time you try to change what GM built into the operation of the engine management system you are playing with a lot of unknowns. Unfortunately there are those who will probable tell you they did this or that and it worked just fine and I am full of yard fertilizer. What I see over and over are old school or shade tree mechanics trying to apply what was good for the cars back in the 50's and 60's to today's cars. That will not work because in the last 50 years the car manufactures have learned a thing or two about making them better. Remember 50 years ago the manufacture would tell you 500 miles on a quart of oil was good oh and the engines back then only lasted 50K before being in need of a rebuild. today the tolerance and designs are such as to give us 200K engines and transmission under normal use. Or how about the brakes if they got wet you could not stop until you drove with your foot on the brake pedal to heat them up and dry them out. Radial tires had a whole lot of tire stores getting rich from people who bought new cars and drove them immediately to the tire store to remove the radials and put bias ply tires on there cars. My point is just because it is different from what you experienced in the past does not mean it is wrong.
 
Thanks for the input John,..
Not an experienced Corvette guy by any means but can turn a wrench.
Frome GP Bikes to GM cars. Time to learn a spell(intern time).
Just wanted to ensure that I was not seeing anything out of the ord.
TPIS products are the best I have come across in fit and support so my L98 had a heart transplant and is very happy now but a tad warm for us two stroke GP guys.(bikes and cars not not always mix).
From our performance perspective we tend to seek out 65-75C. 80C and above tend to kill all performance and below 65C we tend to encounter seizuire on pistions in the NKS bores.
I have gone through the entire collong system and started from scratch like the long block. I thank you very much however as the car has been a love affair of sorts and project that has made my transition back to normal life enjoyable.
Time for another road trip!!
Mark
 
I also have had experience with racing 2 strokes (My son road raced a 2 stroke) and as for cars well in the past we raced at Elkhart Lake, Sebring, etc.
I see were your coming from with the bikes and cars for racing. I can agree that a special built bike or car that has none of the modern emission systems and daily driver requirements can be made to run cooler and you can tune them to run better in that application. After all you are not interested in stop light idle or 29 MPG on the road. But with government regulations the manufactures have had to go to some pretty exotic controls on the daily drivers.
 
Very cool John,
Small world sometimes!!
Tell your son to come and visit us at gpcustoms.com for a walk down memory lane.
As for the car I must admit that it is a complete ground up project and it has zero emissions equipment(nothing).Bare bones street toy that my girlfriend picked out. And I am not the typical vette guy so I was not excited but I did what I could and after a lot of scrounging I now have a car that I enjoy at least until I give it to my son and start on something different.
Thanks again John for giving me some insight to this car....Its always good to compare against known factors and thats where I was blind.
Thanks again and shout our way anytime John.
Mark
 
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