• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT

5f182e0c.gif


Removing

1:Remove the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the accessory drive belt.
4:Remove the accessory drive belt from the pulleys and tensioner.
5:Slowly release tension on the drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of all the pulleys.
Installation Procedure



Installing

1:Route the accessory drive belt around all the pulleys except the water pump pulley and tensioner.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt tensioner.
4:Install the accessory drive belt under the water pump pulley.
5:Install the accessory drive belt onto the drive belt tensioner.
Slowly release the tension.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Install the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
8:Inspect the accessory drive belt for correct alignment.
 
Thanks for the diagram, but from what I can remember, my belt system doesn't look anything at all like that. Matter of fact, I thought the a/c compressor has it's own separate belt. So am I just looking at it cockeyed or something? :shrug01:
 
how about this one and the one above your post?

Drive Belt Replacement - Air Conditioning

254dd0a6.gif


1:Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory .
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the A/C drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt.
4:Remove the A/C drive belt from the pulleys.
5:Slowly release tension on the A/C drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the A/C drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of the pulleys.
 
Yeah! That looks more like it! I read this in the maintenance manual, but I guess it's that "breaker bar" think that worried me. That implies "oomph" to loosen that bolt up. My knuckles are cringing already. They remember the automotive stuff I did when I was younger........... :eek:

Thanks.
 
Rich Z
I hate to hear of your troubles, but I know this problem all too well :ack2: .

The dealers and I have been tracking the "CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT" error in my Vette since August 02 :banghead:.
I have changed alternators, batteries, several connectors etc., and still no success. I still get this message. Last time was about 2 weeks ago. I have come to the realization that it will always show up. To my knowledge it has never caused a problem it just drives me nuts :crazy: .

The one bright side of this story is GM gave me a free extended warranty for this problem and several other constant problems with my Vette :(.
 
Well actually that FAULT error has apparently gone away after the vette tech who installed my headers tightened up that ground screw on the alternator he forgot to tighten during the install. The error codes went away as well.

I believe my problem now is related to a faulty voltage regulator. If I remember correctly, these are now built inside of the alternators. I remember when they were separate units. But it sounds to me that the voltage regulator is not telling the alternator to charge up the battery intermittently. I may be all wet about this, but been thinking about it all day long trying to figure it out. I'm in the process of looking for a chrome plated alternator right now. I may be wrong, and if so, at least I will have a shiny alternator in place while I continue to try to track down the problem.

I would just hate to get stranded somewhere when the car stops running, which certainly could happen.
 
I just went ahead and ordered a new alternator. Shamefully I am not getting a genuine OEM GM unit but instead found a Autolite unit for under $200 that comes with a lifetime guarantee. They are sold locally through the Advance Auto stores around here, but I had to order it online because the local store doesn't carry it.

I did want a chrome one, but I couldn't find one either (1) at a price I was willing to pay, or (2) one was available to be shipped NOW.

Guess I need to find that monster socket set I bought many moons ago with the long arm bar in it. It's in that hell hole I call my "work room" somewhere. To give you an idea of what that room is like, I had a generator (one of those big 4,000 watt jobs) and I couldn't find it.... :ack2: I probably have every tool made by man, but can only find half of them when I need them.

I figure I'll probably put in that Shaner throttle body at the same time. The alternator is supposed to be here on Friday, so that will keep me occupied Saturday unless the rains come back.

If the alternator doesn't fix the problem, I'm not sure what next step to take. I think the only other option is the wiring harness that goes from the alternator through the starter to the battery.

But I REALLY don't like the feeling that I can't just crank up the Z and ride for hours on end without the fear that it might die alongside the road somewhere. So I need to get this fixed and off my plate....
 
Well dang it all! I no sooner order that Autolite alternator when I find a place offering brand NEW polished ones for $425, shipping included. Place is Xtreme Motorsports. I haven't heard about the time element involved, so I need to check into it. I heard in CF that someone had an Autolite alternator burst into flames on him. I'm sure that is probably the exception rather then the rule.

Been doing a lot of reading up on this and I really don't know what the problem is. Some people say if the alternator is BAD, I should get an error flagged. I wonder if it is just the meter reading being flaky? I guess I could always put a meter directly on the battery and compare the two readings.

:shrug01:
 
Rich....I have only seen one aftermarket alternator work properly in a C5. The C5's computer controls the alternator. That is why there is 3 wires coming out of the top of the alternator. Your best bet it is to stick with factory or factory rebuilt unit. Also there is no ground wire on your alternator. The alternator grounds through the engine block. There are ground wires going from chasis to engine block and there is one that is often overlooked.

Current flows in a big circle. Negative lines are just as important as positive. Here is the first thing to do. Check all ground and power connections under the hood. You will need to jack up the car for this. Your locations can be found in the service manual. Remove all ground connections, clean the terminal and connecting area. I like to apply dielectric grease to the area. Then reattach making sure the connection is tight. Then go to the positive lines. Once you know all that is solid try driving the car. If there are more problems take the car to alternator shop and have them test the unit.

C5s have been prone to all sorts of electrical problems. Most of the time those probelms can be traced back to a bad ground. The C5 has a bunch of ground distribution blocks in the car. They are little black boxes with a metal tab attached, a bunch of small black wires coming out, and they are bolted to the chasis. You can clearly see one on each side of your car just behind the head lights on the frame rails. These boxes fail often causing issues with electrical components. On CF there are many threads on this. BillCurrie has written a few good articles on how to clean these boxes. I have removed all of them from my car. I solder all the wires together in one ring terminal and mount that.
 
Well, honestly since my car has over 62K miles on it, I knew just replacing the alternator will be a shot in the dark, but I think of an alternator as a wear item that doesn't live forever and probably needs to be replaced now anyway. I have the Autolite on order, so when it arrives I will install it and just see what happens. If it doesn't work at all, or not well, I take it to the local Advanced Auto store and get my money back. If it works but the problems don't change, then I look elsewhere for the problem, but at least I have an alternator that is not suspect.

Since this all happened since the headers were replaced, the suggestion about a ground has merit. It may be that one was affected by the install. But unfortunately I don't have a lift available, and no way to do that myself. My driveway is sand. I'm not putting a car on jacks and crawling underneath it with that sort of surface to rely on. I love my Z, but I don't want it laying on top of me intimately.. :)

So likely next week, if the new alternator doesn't magically make the problem go away, I will be taking the car back to the shop that installed the headers and dump it on them to troubleshoot. Shane at Champion Chevrolet is a competent tech, so given enough time, I am sure he can find the problem. Having replaced the battery and alternator, I will have eliminated a couple of the variables by then.

Thanks.
 
SteveGel said:
5f182e0c.gif


Removing

1:Remove the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the accessory drive belt.
4:Remove the accessory drive belt from the pulleys and tensioner.
5:Slowly release tension on the drive belt tensioner.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Clean and inspect the drive belt surfaces of all the pulleys.
Installation Procedure



Installing

1:Route the accessory drive belt around all the pulleys except the water pump pulley and tensioner.
2:Install a breaker bar with hex-head socket to the drive belt tensioner bolt.
3:Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise in order to relieve tension on the drive belt tensioner.
4:Install the accessory drive belt under the water pump pulley.
5:Install the accessory drive belt onto the drive belt tensioner.
Slowly release the tension.
6:Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner bolt.
7:Install the air intake duct, if necessary. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 5.7 L.
8:Inspect the accessory drive belt for correct alignment.
Click to expand...

OK, which bolt here is the "drive belt tensioner bolt? I want to be certain before I apply some pressure on the wrong bolt. I was looking at it today, and I'm just not certain at all. I would think the bolt in the center of the wheel on the tensioner, but I would think it would just loosen up the wheel itself. Hate to sound like a goomba, but the last time I changed out a belt or alternator was something like 30 years ago. :rolleyes:
 
:crazy9: :crazy9: :crazy9:

Well this crap is going to drive me nuts........

Today I started up the Z so I could let it run and see if it would just drain down the battery running in the driveway. Cranked up the engine and turned on the headlights, figuring that should do it. Battery voltage was reading 10.9 volts and fluctuated a bit from 10.8 to 11.0. I sat there for a while, but didn't see a gradual drop in voltage like I would have thought I would see. So I figured maybe I should go get the meter and actually check the voltage at the battery. So while leaving it running, I popped the hood latch and then got out of the car and closed the door. I just happened to glance back at the DIC and saw the voltage NOW climbing rapidly up to 13.5 volts and then stayed there. :confused: Now what the hell.........

Do I just have a loose connection somewhere? Since there are no faults showing up concerning the electrical system, is it maybe just the METER itself that is showing me a bogus reading?

I guess the procedure for fixing this problem, if it shows up while I am driving, is to just pull off the road, pop the hood and open the driver's side door........... :crazy9:
 
Hey Rich (Mongoose), you're short'in out your Z while sitting in it. Dry your backside before entering:rofl1: ............Tom
 
Eh? I didn't think about that one. Buttocks pressure on the driver's seat may be the cause?
 
The tensioner is the top pulley on the left and there is no bolt to remove. You place a socket on the bolt head and move the tensioner inward....away from you...to loosen the tension on the belt. I use a breaker bar so I get leverage.

Your inconsitent problem could be a few things. Loose ground, bad alternator, bad voltage gauge, or the car not talking to the alternator properly. Your idea of using your own voltage meter is a good one. I would check voltage at the battery and at the alternator.
 
Just to make sure, I put an arrow to the bolt I think you mean. In the diagram, I would move that bolt to the right to loosen it, and to the left to tighten it. Right?
 

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Rich Z said:
Just to make sure, I put an arrow to the bolt I think you mean. In the diagram, I would move that bolt to the right to loosen it, and to the left to tighten it. Right?
Click to expand...

It just moves the whole pulley so you can slip the belt on or off.
 
MADNESS is correct. Nothing acutally loosens up except the belt. Don't try to turn that nut just use it for leverage to move the pulley. You will see it is not difficult to move the tensioner.
 
OK, thanks. The only long arm wrench I have is a 3/4 inch one I have. I don't think the sockets are small enough for that bolt however. I might run to Sears tomorrow and look at a 1/2 inch socket set. For some reason I don't have one. Got 3/8ths and 3/4s but no 1/2. Might check out the torque wenches as well while I am there.

I think my alternator is due in on Monday. I had hoped it would be here by Friday, but no such luck, apparently. It's coming from California via UPS ground.

But I'm going to drive the car anyway in the meantime. Now that I know the secret is to open the hood and then open and close the driver's side door to clear the problem, I feel pretty good about it.... :lmao: Not......
 
latest tree to bark up.....

I was over on CF last night and found this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1372316

Indicates that a lot of dash related electrical gremlins can be caused by the ignition switch. Coincidentally, two days ago when I went to start my Z, I turned the ignition switch and nothing. I tried it again and it started right up.

A new switch costs about $50, so I am going to replace it. Of course, the local dealer doesn't have one in stock, so it won't be until next week before it shows up. Man, talk about the shotgun method of fixing a problem. :rolleyes:

I drove the car around for a couple of hours yesterday and not a peep of a problem. :crazy9: :crazy9:
 
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