• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

LS2 Limits.

LS2POWA

LS2POWA

Team Afterhours Member
So my next endeavor is to boost the vette. I had planned on swapping out different heads(Livernois has a nice setup, for a good price) to help compensate the boost. Stage 2 heads specs...

New GM 243 casting
5 axis CNC machined
Fully assembled
220cc Intake Runner
Intake Flow Rate 305 CFM
Exhaust Flow Rate 235 CFM
New 2.000 intake valves / 1.550 exhaust valves
GM valve seals and locks
Livernois dual coil valve springs good to ~ .690 lift
Manley titanium retainers
No core required
----For 1449.00, and 300 core refund.

I was also told to use forged pistons and rods, understandable.

Tonight at a meet, Tim had mentioned since the heads will be coming off to throw in a blower cam. So it had me thinking of also adding a cam now, cause i love the sound of a lopy V8, specially with a s/c whine.

With adding forged pistons/rods, and putting in a torque converter(25 or 26 hundred), could the motor/tranny handle that additional power without going kaboom? As of now im putting out 362whp/367tq on CAI, Fast90, 90mm t/b, Dynatech 1 7/8" LT's, Magnaflow 3" catback.

Ive been told by a few people that the motor is only good for 550hp, and tranny for the same. Yet ive seen a few threads with guys making 600+ and not mentioning fully builtup motor and nothing wrong with motor after x amount of miles.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thought id ask here before posting on the other vette forum and have my head ripped off for asking a serious question.
 
From what i hear from the non-bs people, is that the 6L80E is a bullet proof tranny, just the tc would need to be upgraded to handle the power. but i like to hear from other people who had work done, or do the work "wink wink" vendors lol.

stock rear is the 8.8 correct?, if so thatll hold. i shouldnt be making more then 650hp and 580-600 tq.
 
It probably depends on how you plan on driving the car. If you plan on taking it to the drag strip and running a bunch of quarter mile runs with sticky drag radials on the rear, yeah, you will probably break things by boosting the motor and not beefing up the rest of the drivetrain.

But if you are just DRIVING the car with occasional punches to the accelerator while in motion, instead of from a dead stop, the shock to the drivetrain should be minimal and you should be OK. Even dead stop launches will be pretty much OK if you are using street tires and try to avoid wheel hop. With wheel hop, your drivetrain experiences a rapid series of transitions from no load to full load and can easily cause some impressive damage.

The thing that breaks drivetrain components is a transition from no load to full load ABRUPTLY and SUDDENLY. Your rear tires are normally the safety fuse and the smoke they make is them saving something else from going *pop*. So if you drive in such a manner as to keep wheel spin to a minimum, you are also driving in such a way that will keep those transitional forces from tearing things up.
 
The car is my daily driver. It gets the occasional punchs on I275 going to tampa for school, but other then that nothing heavy. i havent even taken it to the track nor do i plan to in the future(dont wanna install a massive roll cage to find out how fast i run a 1/4, not worth it). I rarely punch it off the line, i roll into first when i know theres enough spin then ill punch it. and i have some kdw2's waitin to go on, so no crappy traction uses like the stock runcraps.


This is all ive found.

Type: Six-speed RWD / AWD, electronically controlled automatic overdrive transmission with torque converter clutch. Clutch-to-clutch architecture, with integral Electro / Hydraulic Controls Module
Maximum engine power: 413 bhp (308 kW)
Maximum engine torque: 430 lb-ft (583 Nm)
Maximum gearbox torque: 664 lb-ft (900 Nm)

Important number pertaining to my question is the gearbox number correct? Cause i came across some other sites with the hummer h2 producing 415 engine torque. and if headers/exhaust were done it would surpass the engine torque limits.
 
As mentioned, if it's a regular drag car, then you'll need to upgrade the rear and the trans significantly.

If it see's the occasional track day and regular street driving;), then you should be ok:thumbsup:

You can hit the track once without a roll bar and get you're #'s.

They'll warn you if you're under a certain time, or tell you to lave until you've installed the bar/cage.

What kind of SC are you using?
 
I guess ill make one pass when everything is done.

And im gonna go with the procharger p1sc.

Dick, i believe they are cast. and the compression ratio is a 10.9
 
If you're going FI, ported heads are nice, but not very cost-effective. A pound of boost will equal a head upgrade.

The conventional wisdom on the Corvette 6L80E is that it is not bulletproof, quite the contrary. 500 rwhp is considered the upper limit. It is not the same unit as is in the trucks. A search at CF in the C6 FI section should reveal all. Or call the Corvette transmission gurus at RPM Transmissions and ask Rodney. Or talk to Next Level Performance, EnglandGreen, or any of the other Florida tuners with a lot of PROVEN Corvette C6 FI experience (it's not everyone).

The maximum engine torque is your number of concern. The maximum gearbox torque allows for the torque multiplication of the torque converter.

"Built motor" in this context generally means forged pistons. All the other stock components are capable of handling 800 rwhp, although most guys change to an aftermarket rod when they're in there. The stock rods should have the bolts replaced, and by the time you get them resized, etc., it just as cheap to go to a forged rod. You will need stronger valve springs to compensate for the boost pressure on the backside of the valve.

Most FI cam recommendations will come down on the "not lopey" side. EnglandGreen has a lot of experience with centri superchargers and lopey to extremely lopey cams. Let him spec one for you.

Oh, and consider the ECS Paxton blower setup. :thumbsup:

The best way to do this, I think, is to work with a proven FI tuner/builder and follow their recommendations. Learn from the "blown" motors that have gone before you.

Good luck with your project!
 
Gannet said:
If you're going FI, ported heads are nice, but not very cost-effective. A pound of boost will equal a head upgrade.

The conventional wisdom on the Corvette 6L80E is that it is not bulletproof, quite the contrary. 500 rwhp is considered the upper limit. It is not the same unit as is in the trucks. A search at CF in the C6 FI section should reveal all. Or call the Corvette transmission gurus at RPM Transmissions and ask Rodney. Or talk to Next Level Performance, EnglandGreen, or any of the other Florida tuners with a lot of PROVEN Corvette C6 FI experience (it's not everyone).

The maximum engine torque is your number of concern. The maximum gearbox torque allows for the torque multiplication of the torque converter.

"Built motor" in this context generally means forged pistons. All the other stock components are capable of handling 800 rwhp, although most guys change to an aftermarket rod when they're in there. The stock rods should have the bolts replaced, and by the time you get them resized, etc., it just as cheap to go to a forged rod. You will need stronger valve springs to compensate for the boost pressure on the backside of the valve.

The best way to do this, I think, is to work with a proven FI tuner/builder and follow their recommendations. Learn from the "blown" motors that have gone before you.

Good luck with your project!
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Corey, There's a trmendous amount of wisdom here. I'd take this info very seriously if I were you. :thumbsup:
 
LS2POWA said:
Dick, i believe they are cast. and the compression ratio is a 10.9
Click to expand...

pretty much what Gannet said- the cast pistons are junk and that high CR isnt a very good combo if you plan on running a lot of boost. whats the most someone has run on a stock engine? 8psi or somewhere around there?
 
Dick said:
pretty much what Gannet said- the cast pistons are junk and that high CR isnt a very good combo if you plan on running a lot of boost. whats the most someone has run on a stock engine? 8psi or somewhere around there?
Click to expand...
People have run up to about 600 rwhp on stock shortblocks...for a while. Sometimes a rather long while. But the engine is on the edge and could go at any time. This route should only be taken if you aready have the cash in hand for a forged replacement engine and are just running the stocker out as long as you can. If you go for over 500 rwhp on a stock shortblock, run the AlkyControl/ECS meth injection for sure.
 
It's not question of boost, it's a question of cylinder pressures, which relates more closely to the amount of fuel burned, and that correlates pretty well to HP. You could have a ton of boost and not make much power if the engine is not set up right. On the other hand, you could run 525 rwhp with a blower and stock longblock and live a long long time, and then change the heads and cam and make 600 rwhp at the same boost and lunch the pistons.
 
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