Second attempt....

[ynkedad]

JAN...This post is comprised of several posts from another thread entitled "We're Shopping", that None of the Vendors here replied to. So I figured...maybe it was in the wrong section, and/or maybe it was just missed.:shrug01:

Here goes....

:wavey: ..My wife (Tx momma) wants to put a BORLA cat back system with the Quad tips on her 2000 C5 Mn6. She wants an Aggressive Rumble while at idle, and a nice take off/wot attention getting sound. Basically a 2,3,1or2 set up on the rating chart. NOTE: She does NOT want drone while cruising (at least no more than what my Magnapack system produces):thumbsup: .

http://youtube.com/watch?v=rC2HA5w3B7I

Question(s)...**In the link above, are those Borla STINGERS and do they come in Quad tips? I think they do.:yesnod:

**I have found them for $1099.99 from Mid America Motorworks, But I'm uncertain if they're quad's. Anyone know where I can get them cheaper?
** Also, I'm looking for a place to have them installed (at one of the forum sponsors shops down south).

JAN...We're looking at having Both Vette's Dyno tuned (and maybe more) the same day. If ANYONE wants to PM me to discuss any or all of this, Feel free :thumbsup: I'm not much into "on the spot" phone conversations (at first).:shrug01: Also, beware, I'm NOT a gear head!:bigear:
Besides, This way I WON'T FORGET as I'll have all of the information handy.:dancer01:

And maybe More? Translated...Means I'm looking for more POWER for my 2005 C6 A4.
So, who can "Hook a Brutha Up"?

~Ray

...........................................

Well, I put it out there (via this thread) and have yet to converse with any of our vendors.?? :nonod:
My shopping list and installs etc include, but isn't limited to...
Definite stuff:
Borla's (cat back with X-pipe) for Angel's 2000 C5.
Dyno's for both her C5 and my C6.
Brake pads etc (ceramic) for my C6.
Possibilities:
A CAI and Possibly Coated Headers Or a Cam pkg.for my C6 (I'm Not Sure).:shrug01:

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

TIA,

~Ray

 

[Gannet]

I have found that, for whatever reason, getting most vendors to reply to specific posts like this, or even PMs/emails, is like pulling teeth. I don't know if it's that they don't have time (this is what I suspect), that they don't want to put things in writing, that they're just not "computer people", or what. They all seem to want you to call, but that's not so convenient for some customers, for various reasons.

I've tried this with a BUNCH of vendors. So far, only two have been prompt and attentive in electronic communications; one in Georgia, one in Illinois.

My suggestion? Do your own research, pick your own parts, don't worry too much about who is cheapest, and just work with whatever vendor you feel most comfortable with. There's going to be plenty of expense and hassle no matter who you use. Either that or just take money to the vendor, close your eyes, and let him pick everything. That works too...with the right vendor, and enough cash.

Remember, there is nothing like STOCK. Once you head down the mod road, it's kinda "you broke it, you bought it". Yes, even for catbacks. Be sure you are ready for that.

For the specific stuff you listed, catbacks are fine (pick one). I wouldn't bother with a dyno tune until you at least get headers. There' s just not much there. For your car, if you do headers OR cam you will get more from the cam, but if you pick a cam that does well with stock exhaust it will be less than ideal with headers (you'll leave quite a bit of power on the table). OTOH headers alone don't make all THAT much more power. I did headers, CAI, dyno tune, ported TB, and made 27 rwhp. A fun increase, but not really all that much, especially for the money it cost. And definitely not civilized. It only made sense as a first step, and even then I might have been better off just putting a FI setup on an otherwise stock car. If you want a power increase that is completely painless and has NO downsides other than expense, put a set of AFR 205s on it.

Just imo/ime. Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

[ynkedad]

:dancer01:
What does "FI" and "NA" mean and what are AFR 205s?:bigear:

 

[Bradzvette]

:dancer01:
What does "FI" and "NA" mean and what are AFR 205s?:bigear:

In order,

FI Forced Induction-blower or superchager, etc
NA Naturally Aspirated, means no FI, turbo, the motor itself makes all the power.

AFR is a cylinder head producing company, they make about the best heads out there for the LSx series.


Ray, if you are willing to come to Tampa I will have Tracy get you a package price on everything you posted. Look for his PM shortly.

Thank you

Brad

 

[ynkedad]

Remember, there is nothing like STOCK. Once you head down the mod road, it's kinda "you broke it, you bought it". Yes, even for catbacks. Be sure you are ready for that.

For your car, if you do headers OR cam you will get more from the cam, but if you pick a cam that does well with stock exhaust it will be less than ideal with headers (you'll leave quite a bit of power on the table).
Just imo/ime. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Well, my car has Magnaflow Magnapacks with x-pipe. So I wonder if headers are even worth it?

 

[ynkedad]

Ray, if you are willing to come to Tampa I will have Tracy get you a package price on everthing you posted. Look for his PM shortly.

Thank you

Brad

:thumbsup:

 

[Bradzvette]

Well, my car has Magnaflow Magnapacks with x-pipe. So I wonder if headers are even worth it?

One of the best bang for the buck bolt ons out there. Combine those with a cold air induction system and a good tune and you will have a very nice set up. Definite seat of the pants improvement.

 

[ynkedad]

One of the best bang for the buck bolt ons out there.

Feelin' good Now!:dancer01:

 

[98 softtail]

Ray, I sent a reply to your thread earlier. Yes Borla's come in Quad tips and you might want to contact Corvettes West. I got my Borla Stingers there for $1100 installed.

Joe B.

 

[Gannet]

I might be the only guy that thinks headers are not a particularly good bang-for-buck bolt-on for C5s/C6s. They just don't make that much power, and they're EXPENSIVE. The thing is, the factory manifolds are really very good, maybe the best ever put on a Detroit V8.

Headers alone will get you about 15 rwhp, depending. Good ones are $1500-1800 with cats, and then there's $300-600 for installation. A CAI will get you 5-(maybe)10 rwhp and will run $250-500, plus $150-250 installation. A tune is $500. These prices are "roughly" and you may do better on a package. Add all that up and you're looking at $3500 for about 25 rwhp, or $140/rwhp. Not a good ratio. A cam that works with stock exhaust and is pretty streetable will get 35-40 rwhp and cost just under $2k, installed and tuned. $50/rwhp, now that's more like.

The AFRs are not the cheapest way to go, but they are the best investment in a lot of ways. They have NO downsides: they will make more power everywhere, have better throttle response, get better gas mileage, and not effect your idle, driveability, or reliability. Figure 30-35 rwhp on an otherwise stock motor. Around $3000-3500 installed, depending, and they don't even need a tune if you leave everything else as-is. $100/rwhp.

A centrifugal blower kit is about $9k installed, and will add from 150-200 rwhp on an otherwise stock engine. $45-60/rwhp.

All just ime/imo.

 

[ynkedad]

Ray, I sent a reply to your thread earlier. Yes Borla's come in Quad tips and you might want to contact Corvettes West. I got my Borla Stingers there for $1100 installed.

Joe B.

:thumbsup: Thanks Man!

 

[Rich Z]

Bear in mind that if you get your parts from one place and have someone else install them, the warranty on the parts if something breaks will NOT include the expense of replacing them. If you can get a package deal where the shop will guarantee EVERYTHING, then even paying more for the parts might wind up being a better insurance policy for you.

In any event make sure you know UP FRONT about any warranty that applies. To give you an example, I have cut and pasted a warranty from a very well know national shop that installs MagnaCharger superchargers and offers a 3 year/36K mile warranty on their work. Sounds pretty good, doesn't it?

But the fine print may make you pause a bit.

XXXXXX warrants the above-identified supercharger package it has installed on the above-listed vehicle to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty is only valid on cars with less than 20,000 miles on them at the time of install. This warranty covers only the supercharger components and the lubricated components of the engine assembly, and it does not cover any other item including but not limited to maintenance or normal wear items, the clutch (if vehicle is equipped with manual transmission), torque converter (if vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission), transmission or parts thereof, or other drive-train components. This warranty will be voided if the boost level or computer tuning is altered in any way from the XXXXXX settings. Tampering with heat indicators or XXXXXX installed seals will void this warranty. The warranty period begins on the date of delivery. This warranty applies only to the original owner of the vehicle at the date of delivery by XXXXXX and is not transferable. This warranty does not apply to damage caused by detonation, overheating, misuse, incorrect maintenance, modification, abuse, racing, or accidents. In the event of a warranty claim by the warranty owner, the vehicle must be delivered to XXXXXX at the owner's expense for inspection before any warranty authorization will be given. XXXXXX reserves the right to repair or replace the engine assembly after inspection. XXXXXX disclaims and shall not be held liable for any consequential damages or attorney fees resulting from a warranty claim. THIS WARRANTY SUPERSEDES ALL PREVIOUSLY APPLICABLE WARRANTIES, IF ANY, AND EXCEPT AS OTHERWISE PROVIDED HEREIN, NO OTHER WARRANTY, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTIES OF FITNESS OR MERCHANTABILITY, IS PROVIDED TO YOU, BY XXXXXX OR ANY OTHER PARTY, FOR THIS SUPERCHARGER PACKAGE OR ANY COMPONENT THEREOF.

*identifying labels have been edited out.

 

[Gannet]

Ah yes, the voice of reason, from the man of experience. Thanks, Rich! :thumbsup:

The fact is, modified cars are NOT STOCK and, for all intents and purposes, the systems that are modified have NO WARRANTY. Yes, a good shop will give you something more than the traditional "5 feet or 5 seconds" IF there is infant mortality. Once you run it for a couple thousand miles, it's yours. The warranty that Rich quotes above is from one of the most respected and most expensive shops in the country. Yes, you get a warranty...and about a 25% premium on the bill. It may well be worth it, but the point is the warranty isn't "free".

As to the GM warranty. yes, there is Magnuson-Moss, but dealers have wide discretion in practice and if the guy doesn't want to fix your car, you'll play heck getting it fixed there. Lawyers or no.

Ray, the question you have to ask yourself is, are you prepared to deal with the potential crap of a modified car? Up to and including buying your own new engine if you have a catastrophic failure due to GM/aftermarket/your shop/fate/whatever? Are you willing to take it back to the shop 3 or 4 times to get it right? Are you willing to go through 3 tuners? Etc, etc. That's not to say that these horrible things WILL happen, as they probably won't. But they might and if they do, and your car is modded, you're on your own. Would that be just painful, or catastrophic? If the latter, leave it alone.

On the other hand, if you're willing to take a deep breath and start down the hot rod path, then the questions become much simpler. Indeed, there's only one question: speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?

That's a smart-ass way of saying "set a budget and the rest comes from that". Decide on a dollar amount (more than stock), and a "hassle factor" (driveability, reliability, mileage, etc., all worse than stock) and then you can make a realistic plan and get useful advice on what might be an appropriate package for you. I wouldn't just throw parts at the car because "this is what everybody does". I see more useless crap at Vette shows than I can believe.

 

[Bradzvette]

Ray, I love to drive my car just about anywhere, it is my daily driver. I would jump at an excuse to drive over and meet you in person and let you take my vert for a spin. 96 miles is nothing. Then you can decide where you want to be at compared to my car and the mods I have done, less or more. From there we can get you a firm quote.

Let me know, looking forward to a little trip.

Brad

 

[THOR]

Ah yes, the voice of reason, from the man of experience. Thanks, Rich! :thumbsup:

The fact is, modified cars are NOT STOCK and, for all intents and purposes, the systems that are modified have NO WARRANTY. Yes, a good shop will give you something more than the traditional "5 feet or 5 seconds" IF there is infant mortality. Once you run it for a couple thousand miles, it's yours. The warranty that Rich quotes above is from one of the most respected and most expensive shops in the country. Yes, you get a warranty...and about a 25% premium on the bill. It may well be worth it, but the point is the warranty isn't "free".

As to the GM warranty. yes, there is Magnuson-Moss, but dealers have wide discretion in practice and if the guy doesn't want to fix your car, you'll play heck getting it fixed there. Lawyers or no.

Ray, the question you have to ask yourself is, are you prepared to deal with the potential crap of a modified car? Up to and including buying your own new engine if you have a catastrophic failure due to GM/aftermarket/your shop/fate/whatever? Are you willing to take it back to the shop 3 or 4 times to get it right? Are you willing to go through 3 tuners? Etc, etc. That's not to say that these horrible things WILL happen, as they probably won't. But they might and if they do, and your car is modded, you're on your own. Would that be just painful, or catastrophic? If the latter, leave it alone.

On the other hand, if you're willing to take a deep breath and start down the hot rod path, then the questions become much simpler. Indeed, there's only one question: speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?

That's a smart-ass way of saying "set a budget and the rest comes from that". Decide on a dollar amount (more than stock), and a "hassle factor" (driveability, reliability, mileage, etc., all worse than stock) and then you can make a realistic plan and get useful advice on what might be an appropriate package for you. I wouldn't just throw parts at the car because "this is what everybody does". I see more useless crap at Vette shows than I can believe.

This sounds reasonable and makes practical sense.