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Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.
The garage build.
- Thread starter Rich Z
- Start date
Thanks guys!
The building is 30x50x12. Those roll-up doors are 10 ft wide and 8 ft tall.
Probably will finish off the inside with some sort of panelling. Then there is electrical work, of course, to put in lights and receptacles.
The original thought had been to put exhaust fans on those louvers, but they are not the correct type for that. These are crank operated, and there really isn't any good way to mount fans on them. Not what I wanted at all. So I'm not sure what I'll do about that now. As for A/C, I'm going to wait to see what things are like in there during the heat of the summer. I'm sure it will get hot, but I want to see if it will get TOO hot. The exhaust fans were supposed to help with that, but obviously that got blown out of the water.
Need to have the floor finished off, but no sense doing that till the electrical is done. Otherwise stuff will get dropped onto the floor and damage it.
The building is 30x50x12. Those roll-up doors are 10 ft wide and 8 ft tall.
Probably will finish off the inside with some sort of panelling. Then there is electrical work, of course, to put in lights and receptacles.
The original thought had been to put exhaust fans on those louvers, but they are not the correct type for that. These are crank operated, and there really isn't any good way to mount fans on them. Not what I wanted at all. So I'm not sure what I'll do about that now. As for A/C, I'm going to wait to see what things are like in there during the heat of the summer. I'm sure it will get hot, but I want to see if it will get TOO hot. The exhaust fans were supposed to help with that, but obviously that got blown out of the water.
Need to have the floor finished off, but no sense doing that till the electrical is done. Otherwise stuff will get dropped onto the floor and damage it.
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I checked this morning and not a drop got inside.
Friday I caulked up all the outside seams at the bottom of the walls where it meets the flashing, mostly to keep bugs out. When they were finishing up, one of the guys was up on the roof with a caulk gun, so I figured he was sealing up everything nice and tight. I imagine that might need to be done again in several years, but even if the tin leaks, the insulation is backed by a sturdy plastic backing that should help with any leaks. I wish that they had applied seam tape to all the roof insulation, but that didn't happen. I've done most of the lower wall panels myself just yesterday, but need to find more tape to finish up. Might do the roof myself if I'm not a weenie about being up that high on a ladder. Honestly, I'm not real keen about heights. Falling off a ladder at 12 ft high onto concrete isn't my idea of a fun time.
shakedown067
Sinister C4
That's one good looking garage. When's the driveway going in...for that's one hell of a step up into the garage at the moment.
Actually the concrete guy was out today to form up the apron. He didn't dig the footers, though, since we are supposed to get some heavy rain tonight and tomorrow, and he was afraid he would be wasting his time. He won't be out till Monday to finish up and poor the concrete, however, as he has a big job he needs to finish up towards the end of this week. The apron is going to be 20 foot in front of those garage doors, so the incline into the bays should be nice and gradual....
We really got dumped on last night and today. Actually had a river running from my driveway to the house!
I was worried because the concrete guy set up the forms yesterday and prepped the ground. I was afraid it would all be washed away, but it didn't look too bad at all. Matter of fact he pulled up the same time that I walked out there and was surprised at how well it fared.
On the bright side, he said he's going to be pouring the slab tomorrow, since his other job will take two days of pouring and it appears that Friday will bring rain as well. So my smaller one day job will fit into that narrow window of opportunity.
I checked inside the garage for leaks, since I figured this would be an excellent test, and it fared with flying colors. Just a bit of wet concrete at the corner of the walkin door and a dab or two at the edges of a couple of the rollups. :thumbsup:
I was worried because the concrete guy set up the forms yesterday and prepped the ground. I was afraid it would all be washed away, but it didn't look too bad at all. Matter of fact he pulled up the same time that I walked out there and was surprised at how well it fared.
On the bright side, he said he's going to be pouring the slab tomorrow, since his other job will take two days of pouring and it appears that Friday will bring rain as well. So my smaller one day job will fit into that narrow window of opportunity.
I checked inside the garage for leaks, since I figured this would be an excellent test, and it fared with flying colors. Just a bit of wet concrete at the corner of the walkin door and a dab or two at the edges of a couple of the rollups. :thumbsup:
Well, just had the electrical finished up today. Got LOTS of light in there now. And receptacles all over the place. I didn't put in an exhaust fan yet, but the electrical connection is there when I need it.
All I've got to do now is finish the floor. Got a floor buffer/polisher on order that should show up on Saturday. Got to get those dang tire tracks off of the concrete. Still looking at options for a coating, but will probably go with an epoxy paint and then one or two clear coats over that. I had someone quote me a price, but they want $5,250 for it.
I think Connie and I will do this ourselves, as materials will be far less then that. Probably famous last words...... But sure would like to get this done before my car comes back home.
Oh yeah, also want to get the driveway done. Maybe asphault or perhaps paving stones. None of which will be cheap. Maybe we could do the paving stones ourselves. Give us a project now that we are retired.
Man, what a project this has become.
All I've got to do now is finish the floor. Got a floor buffer/polisher on order that should show up on Saturday. Got to get those dang tire tracks off of the concrete. Still looking at options for a coating, but will probably go with an epoxy paint and then one or two clear coats over that. I had someone quote me a price, but they want $5,250 for it.
I think Connie and I will do this ourselves, as materials will be far less then that. Probably famous last words...... But sure would like to get this done before my car comes back home.Oh yeah, also want to get the driveway done. Maybe asphault or perhaps paving stones. None of which will be cheap. Maybe we could do the paving stones ourselves. Give us a project now that we are retired.
Man, what a project this has become.
85vette
Active member
Well, just had the electrical finished up today. Got LOTS of light in there now. And receptacles all over the place. I didn't put in an exhaust fan yet, but the electrical connection is there when I need it.
All I've got to do now is finish the floor. Got a floor buffer/polisher on order that should show up on Saturday. Got to get those dang tire tracks off of the concrete. Still looking at options for a coating, but will probably go with an epoxy paint and then one or two clear coats over that. I had someone quote me a price, but they want $5,250 for it.
Oh yeah,also want to get the driveway done. Maybe asphault or perhaps paving stones. None of which will be cheap. Maybe we could do the paving stones ourselves. Give us a project now that we are retired.
Man, what a project this has become.
Well at least you picked the right time of year to do it, before the heat comes back. Pavers would look good! Who did the electrical for you?
Well at least you picked the right time of year to do it, before the heat comes back. Pavers would look good! Who did the electrical for you?
I had Anytime Electric do the work. They did an OK job but the guy doing most of the work was kind of sloppy. Punched a few holes in the insulation.
Those pavers look good, but surely will be a lot of work!
Is that your place?
fletcher4u
New member
Now thats sweet
Rats...
Been looking at getting a lift installed in the garage and I had someone from Affordable Automotive Equipment out of Orlando contact me today and gave me a pretty good price on the lift, transporting it and install.
But I may be stymied by my own lack of foresight when I had the concrete poured. The expansion joints might get in the way. I don't believe it will be a good idea to have those posts mounted on or very near the joints as the concrete may be more prone to cracking and breaking there with the stresses applied. There is a long joint right down the center of the building running lengthwise (which is probably the best place to put the posts). Then each bay has another joint running back to front between it and the next. I have to measure the distance between the joints, but I believe it will be something like 12.5 ft. The outside edges of the mounting flanges on the posts are 11 ft. apart. So the question is how far away from a seam or joint do those posts have to be? :banghead: I'll send out some queries, but I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot with this.... :nonod:
Been looking at getting a lift installed in the garage and I had someone from Affordable Automotive Equipment out of Orlando contact me today and gave me a pretty good price on the lift, transporting it and install.
But I may be stymied by my own lack of foresight when I had the concrete poured. The expansion joints might get in the way. I don't believe it will be a good idea to have those posts mounted on or very near the joints as the concrete may be more prone to cracking and breaking there with the stresses applied. There is a long joint right down the center of the building running lengthwise (which is probably the best place to put the posts). Then each bay has another joint running back to front between it and the next. I have to measure the distance between the joints, but I believe it will be something like 12.5 ft. The outside edges of the mounting flanges on the posts are 11 ft. apart. So the question is how far away from a seam or joint do those posts have to be? :banghead: I'll send out some queries, but I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot with this.... :nonod:
gmjunkie
Corvette,GM Classic Freak
I guess it would depend on what kind of lift,I wouldn't want a 2 post close to the expansion joint!!:shrug01::shrug01::shrug01: I'm going for a 4 post,I want to put a Hunter 4 wheel Alignment Machine on it, plus be able to use it as a service rack!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
shakedown067
Sinister C4
Wow, I never even thought about that. I bet they can figure out where to properly install it. Good luck.
That's just it. I think a 2 post is much more convenient for me, for a lot of reasons. They make attachments to the 4 post units to lift the wheels off of the rack, but the more I eyeball them, the less I think they will work with a low riding car like a vette. Plus with a 2 post, you just swing the arms out of the way and it's like riding into a regular bay. With a 4 post unit, I know they say you don't have to bolt it to the floor, but darn if I want my car sitting on top of those posts and NOT have it securely fastened. All the weight will be at the top, and those posts just won't give me a warm fuzzy feeling standing underneath a 3,000 pound dead weight. Start tugging on something vigorously laterally then that weight could multiply the stresses I am applying. One bad weld of flawed joint on ANY corner brings it down..
And I found out earlier today that I need to get the extended width lift so that the arms will be able to fit under a vette. So instead of 11 ft from the outside edges of the mounting plates, I'm looking at 12.08 ft. Which will put it even closer to a seam. One side won't be a problem as it will be setting on the footer. Well guess I need to take some measurements. If it comes to a choice of breaking up the concrete in that one bay to sink a column of concrete or NOT getting the lift at all, I'm not sure which way I will bounce.
Yeah, it's like I have always said. You need to do something ONCE just so you know everything that you should have known beforehand to do it RIGHT.