mickeystoysz16
I have stripes
With the regular wt 5-30 I am getting 44 psi at startup with 40-43 psi @normal operating temperature in a stock C5Z.
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Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.
427 engine (part 2) - RHS block
- Thread starter Rich Z
- Start date
navy2kcoupe
!ereH nI depparT m'I pleH
Rich, got any pictures of the installed valve? Which model did you use, and
are you using an extension? That sounds like something that would be worthwhile
doing on my engine, and I would like to know EXACTLY what to order to do
it correctly the first time.....! Don't need no stinkin visit from Mr. Murphy!
Andy :wavey:
Yeah. Just brought the camera over from the garage today, so I've got pictures of the valve that I took yesterday.
The model number I got was F107S. That's the one with the short nipple, which seems to fit just fine. They also make a model without a nipple that would work, but the long nipple would likely be a problem.
You can even put a piece of hose on the short nipple when you open the valve for the oil draining process, if you wanted to. I put a wire wrap around the top of the valve lever as an extra safety precaution in case the spring would ever break inside the valve. Never heard of that happening, but I know how my luck runs sometimes. :ack2:
The company selling these is called "QwikValve". They cost $27 each when I bought them.
With the thin oils, after a test drive my oil pressure would be hovering around 22 to 24 psi when idling in front of the garage door. This is OK, according to the experts, but I want to see what this thicker oil will do for the pressure.
navy2kcoupe
!ereH nI depparT m'I pleH
Rich, Thanks for the pix! Yep! You're probably right to install a zip-tie on that
sucker! Been reading this thread too long, not to get the idea that if it weren't
for bad luck, you would have no luck at all. You must have used up all of your
good luck when you married Connie!
I went to the web site of the manufacturer
and saw a cutaway model of the valve, and it's a ball valve which to my mind is the only type of valve to use on anything liquid. Do you have anything negative
to say about the valve so far like workmanship, hard to open or close, dripping,
etc..? This might be one of those "looks too good to be true" deals, but then it
might just be a quality product that does what it's designed to do. If that's the
case, I'll have to order one for my car.
Andy :thumbsup::thumbsup::wavey:
sucker! Been reading this thread too long, not to get the idea that if it weren't
for bad luck, you would have no luck at all. You must have used up all of your
good luck when you married Connie!
I went to the web site of the manufacturerand saw a cutaway model of the valve, and it's a ball valve which to my mind is the only type of valve to use on anything liquid. Do you have anything negative
to say about the valve so far like workmanship, hard to open or close, dripping,
etc..? This might be one of those "looks too good to be true" deals, but then it
might just be a quality product that does what it's designed to do. If that's the
case, I'll have to order one for my car.
Andy :thumbsup::thumbsup::wavey:
Rich, Thanks for the pix! Yep! You're probably right to install a zip-tie on that
sucker! Been reading this thread too long, not to get the idea that if it weren't
for bad luck, you would have no luck at all. You must have used up all of your
good luck when you married Connie!
and saw a cutaway model of the valve, and it's a ball valve which to my mind is the only type of valve to use on anything liquid. Do you have anything negative
to say about the valve so far like workmanship, hard to open or close, dripping,
etc..? This might be one of those "looks too good to be true" deals, but then it
might just be a quality product that does what it's designed to do. If that's the
case, I'll have to order one for my car.
Andy :thumbsup::thumbsup::wavey:
I bought valves for all three vettes and have had one on Connie's C6 for a while with no complaints. Well, except that you have to fiddle around with extra gaskets to get the valve handle to be above the center line, anyway.
The spring holding the lever down into the detent feels just right. Not too stiff, but not so loose that there is any chance it will accidentally open up on you. But still, I'm going to use wire wraps any way.
I've still got to put two of them on the C6Z next time I change the oil in that car, but I need to get some extra gaskets from QwikValve first.
All in all I would have to say I would buy them again knowing what I know now about them. Looks like they will do the job with no muss or fuss.
navy2kcoupe
!ereH nI depparT m'I pleH
Thanks Rich! Good info.:thumbsup: I change the oil in the garage with the Vette
up on ramps, and it's not that high. There's ALWAYS a mess! I put down the
cheap shower curtain liners that you can get for a buck at dollar general to
protect the floor, but that valve would cut down on some of the mess as well as
saving the threads by not having to remove the plug everytime.
Andy :wavey:
up on ramps, and it's not that high. There's ALWAYS a mess! I put down the
cheap shower curtain liners that you can get for a buck at dollar general to
protect the floor, but that valve would cut down on some of the mess as well as
saving the threads by not having to remove the plug everytime.
Andy :wavey:
I think if you get a section of hose to fit over the nipple on that valve then that should just about completely eliminate ANY mess while changing the oil. I use a section of hose to put on the nipple of my catch can when I drain it, for that very reason, and it works very well.
Yep, going along pretty well. I worked on a new tune last night and loaded it in today then took a test drive. Drives remarkably well, all things considered. Pretty much drives like stock but with a lot more muscle behind the gas pedal. I still want to try to sharpen up the throttle response in a few spots, but I don't think that will be too tough. Most people probably wouldn't even notice it, but I'm a picky SOB.
Mike Carnahan has been helping me somewhat, but the guy is pretty busy and I had to take what nuggets of wisdom I could get from him and then run with it myself. Plus the mod over on the EFILive gave me some pointers to look into when he looked at the tune and I told him what I was striving for.
Actually I'm thinking I should create a new thread concerning all the tuning stuff I've been learning so I can keep track of what I did. Memory isn't as good as it used to be, so my keeping a log via the forums here will help a lot if I need to go back to try to figure out what I did.
I have only heard the drivetrain noise once, faintly during the last several times taking the car out for a drive. Just a chirp when pulling it out of the garage while it was still warming up. So I'm hoping that was a long break-in period for something in the drivetrain that will be self healing.
Besides that, the only mechanical issue I can think of that I need to address is that when I come to a dead stop for a few moments, my vents start blowing hot air, regardless of how I have the controls set. This is without the A/C running, btw. No big deal, but tracking it down will give me something to do.
Oh, and I've got to find someone to put that Tigershark front bumper fascia on for me and paint it. I'm pretty pleased with the work I did on the paint job, and can live with the flaws remaining for a while. And I may actually be able to fix many of them myself as well. Just because I've never done something before doesn't mean that I CAN'T do it.
Mike Carnahan has been helping me somewhat, but the guy is pretty busy and I had to take what nuggets of wisdom I could get from him and then run with it myself. Plus the mod over on the EFILive gave me some pointers to look into when he looked at the tune and I told him what I was striving for.
Actually I'm thinking I should create a new thread concerning all the tuning stuff I've been learning so I can keep track of what I did. Memory isn't as good as it used to be, so my keeping a log via the forums here will help a lot if I need to go back to try to figure out what I did.
I have only heard the drivetrain noise once, faintly during the last several times taking the car out for a drive. Just a chirp when pulling it out of the garage while it was still warming up. So I'm hoping that was a long break-in period for something in the drivetrain that will be self healing.
Besides that, the only mechanical issue I can think of that I need to address is that when I come to a dead stop for a few moments, my vents start blowing hot air, regardless of how I have the controls set. This is without the A/C running, btw. No big deal, but tracking it down will give me something to do.
Oh, and I've got to find someone to put that Tigershark front bumper fascia on for me and paint it. I'm pretty pleased with the work I did on the paint job, and can live with the flaws remaining for a while. And I may actually be able to fix many of them myself as well. Just because I've never done something before doesn't mean that I CAN'T do it.
Mark Dalton
New member
Rich, you definitely need to post a few "how to" threads. This experience with your car could be gold for DIY,s everywhere.:yesnod:
Just a note that with this Joe Gibbs 15w-50 oil in the crankcase now, with the oil hot after a test drive, the oil pressure at idle is now sitting at 35 to 36 psi. So the heavier weight oil seems to have made a substantial difference in pressure. There is no discernible difference in anything else that I can determine.
CorvetteJohn
Deceased
Were do you get that oil. My 122K 93 only has 15# idle and 30 hot at road speed. It might be interesting the next oil change to see if it would improve my old engine oil pressure.
I found a case on Ebay from a seller called "bryansracingent". The 12 quart case was $120, so it's a bit pricey. That was back in August, so perhaps the price has changed by now.
85vette
Active member
Go to the Joe Gibbs site before you switch. here is an excerpt that pertains to the LS engines:
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
I was trying to find a technical bulletin that warned about the effect 40 and 50 weight oil had on the rings of GM engines when I found this site.
www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/gm-ls-hydraulic-roller-cam
copy and paste the above link
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
I was trying to find a technical bulletin that warned about the effect 40 and 50 weight oil had on the rings of GM engines when I found this site.
www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/gm-ls-hydraulic-roller-cam
copy and paste the above link
85vette
Active member
Go to the Joe Gibbs site before you switch. Here is an excerpt that pertains to the LS engines:
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
I was trying to find a technical bulletin that warned about the effect 40 and 50 weight oil had on the rings of GM engines when I found this site.
www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/gm-ls-hydraulic-roller-cam
I can't get the link to go through but if you copy and paste the above link it works.
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
I was trying to find a technical bulletin that warned about the effect 40 and 50 weight oil had on the rings of GM engines when I found this site.
www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/gm-ls-hydraulic-roller-cam
I can't get the link to go through but if you copy and paste the above link it works.
Perhaps this link will work -> http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/gm-ls-hydraulic-roller-cam-tech-bulletin
Bear in mind that my engine is not a stock engine. It was custom built from the ground up using a RHS block and all aftermarket internal components, including the oil pump. The Joe Gibbs 15W-50 oil I am now using was recommended by the engine builder (LME), and based on the fact that several people commented with concerns over the 5W-30 oil producing relatively low oil pressures at run time. So be careful of comparing apples to oranges in comparing what I am doing to what you might want to do. Your mileage may vary as to what might work best for you.
If there is a problem with the lifters pumping up, I believe it would be rather obvious at startup, so certainly it would be something to keep in mind. I also believe that the issue with heavier weight oils would be much more of a problem in the colder areas of the country than would be the case in Florida, since starting the engine on a very cold morning up north could be a real problem with thicker oil being much more a problem at cold temps. In my case, it is extremely doubtful that the oil temps will ever be below 50 degrees when I start the car. If the morning temps are colder than that, then quite likely I will just stay in bed till it warms up anyway.....
Bear in mind that my engine is not a stock engine. It was custom built from the ground up using a RHS block and all aftermarket internal components, including the oil pump. The Joe Gibbs 15W-50 oil I am now using was recommended by the engine builder (LME), and based on the fact that several people commented with concerns over the 5W-30 oil producing relatively low oil pressures at run time. So be careful of comparing apples to oranges in comparing what I am doing to what you might want to do. Your mileage may vary as to what might work best for you.
If there is a problem with the lifters pumping up, I believe it would be rather obvious at startup, so certainly it would be something to keep in mind. I also believe that the issue with heavier weight oils would be much more of a problem in the colder areas of the country than would be the case in Florida, since starting the engine on a very cold morning up north could be a real problem with thicker oil being much more a problem at cold temps. In my case, it is extremely doubtful that the oil temps will ever be below 50 degrees when I start the car. If the morning temps are colder than that, then quite likely I will just stay in bed till it warms up anyway.....
CorvetteJohn
Deceased
All good points and yes I agree the heavy weight oil in the winter with 0 and below temp at start up would not flow fast enough. I think I will look into putting an oil cooler on the car and then top off the oil with something like Lucas Synthetic booster. Thanks for all the good information and research it is much appreciated.
Oh, and I've got to find someone to put that Tigershark front bumper fascia on for me and paint it. I'm pretty pleased with the work I did on the paint job, and can live with the flaws remaining for a while. And I may actually be able to fix many of them myself as well. Just because I've never done something before doesn't mean that I CAN'T do it.[/QUOTE]
Which Tigershark manufacturer did you go with Rich, Starcraft?
Which Tigershark manufacturer did you go with Rich, Starcraft?
Oh, and I've got to find someone to put that Tigershark front bumper fascia on for me and paint it. I'm pretty pleased with the work I did on the paint job, and can live with the flaws remaining for a while. And I may actually be able to fix many of them myself as well. Just because I've never done something before doesn't mean that I CAN'T do it.[/QUOTE]
Which Tigershark manufacturer did you go with Rich, Starcraft? Will you post on the install?
Which Tigershark manufacturer did you go with Rich, Starcraft? Will you post on the install?