• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

427 engine (part 2) - RHS block

Bob K said:
Damn, I've never heard of doing that. Good info Dan and I see Tracy posting also. I wonder what pulling the spark plugs has to do with priming the oil pump? I understand after reading what Tracy posted about the fuel pump relay.
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pulling the plugs allows the pistons to move freely and not build up any cylinder pressure therefore allowing the motor to free spin. this helps eliminate any excess force on any metal to metal surfaces, like rod bearings, until oil is pumped throughout the oiling system.

i know of small block Fords that you can take a drill with a socket, remove the distributor and actually turn the oil pump with the drill to fill all the oil passages / prime the oiling system before attempting to turn the motor over with the starter for the first time.
 
Fatbum said:
To prime the pump you have to remove the spark plugs, remove the fuel relay fuse and unclip the coil pack wiring, then turn the car over for 30 seconds, wait 5 minutes then do it again. Adding oil to the filter is a good bet as well.

I doubt Chris did all that work....
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I know that Chris (or more accurately, Justin) removed the relay fuse to the fuel pump and unplugged the coil packs, but I honestly cannot remember whether the spark plugs were in place or not. I may have been taking video at that time, so when I get a chance, I'll see if I can find that section of video.
 
Rich Z said:
I know that Chris (or more accurately, Justin) removed the relay fuse to the fuel pump and unplugged the coil packs, but I honestly cannot remember whether the spark plugs were in place or not. I may have been taking video at that time, so when I get a chance, I'll see if I can find that section of video.
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Not removing the spark plugs puts more wear and stress on the rods/valvetrain etc etc because it can't release the compressed air properly.

I hope your issue is as easy as priming it that simple way, and not something else.
 
benjamin said:
pulling the plugs allows the pistons to move freely and not build up any cylinder pressure therefore allowing the motor to free spin. this helps eliminate any excess force on any metal to metal surfaces, like rod bearings, until oil is pumped throughout the oiling system.

i know of small block Fords that you can take a drill with a socket, remove the distributor and actually turn the oil pump with the drill to fill all the oil passages / prime the oiling system before attempting to turn the motor over with the starter for the first time.
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Thanks Benjamin.
 
Here's the latest video I took of the tune being done to get the idle stable at South Georgia Corvette:

 
Sweet sound. Looks good when it is reved up all the pipes are clean without any signs of blue or black smoke and it has a nice crisp note for each cylinder. Beautiful.
 
Rich Z said:
Went up to Thomasville to see them still working on the tune for my car. Apparently there is something wrong in the wiring (possibly) that is making one of the O2 sensors ground out and cause the CPU to try to enrich the fuel to compensate. So the one back starts running REAL rich. They are going to bypass this problem for the time being by forcing the AFR to run in open loop. Once other issues get straightened out, then they will troubleshoot the problem so the car can run in closed loop. Still hearing a chattering from the rocker arm area. Sounds louder on the driver's side. Not sure what that is at this point. Do MSD coil packs make noise? It almost sounds like an ignition spark noise to me.
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I just spoke to Aaron a few minutes ago and he said he found an O2 extension cable wire that was pinched at the bell housing, shorting it out, causing the problem mentioned above. So one issue down.

He put a stethoscope to the engine to try to figure out where that tapping is coming from and he said it appears to be at the #5 or #7 rocker arm. The rest of the engine sounds OK. He'll be pulling off the valve cover to check valve lash and just see what he can see. Both valve covers have to come off anyway to check on them leaking oil.

Hopefully this will be coming to a close shortly...
 
Haven't heard back from Aaron yet to see if he pulled the valve cover to check for that tapping noise. When I was out at his shop last time, I used the camcorder for the audio capabilities to capture that tapping noise. The camcorder does a much better job of "hearing" that sort of thing than my own naked ears can.



Addendum: I just got off the phone with Aaron and he found the problem. The exhaust rocker arms were tapping against the valve cover ever so slightly. Not enough to make even much of a mark, as at first glance, Aaron didn't even see the mark. But at closer inspection he noted the tiny marks being made. So simply by removing a slight bit of metal from the valve cover fixed that problem. He will check out the passenger side as well, as more than likely the same problem will exist on that side as well. Man, I'm glad it was nothing more serious. :thumbsup:
 
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That's great news Rich. It's about time you had some on this build. I didn't find any of my parts out at the shop today. Spent some time when I got home to order a new mass Air Flow Sensor,knock sensors,o2 sensors,harmonic balancer bolt. $$$$$$$$ are flying by my eyes.:lmao:
 
Rich Z said:
I just got off the phone with Aaron and he found the problem. The exhaust rocker arms were tapping against the valve cover ever so slightly.
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Great news! Hope you get nothing but that now that it's at the new shop. :dancer01: I just think your car was pissed being at the other shop. She'll be happy now and fully cooperate to get back on the road in one fantastic, asphalt ripping, piece. That car probably actually protected you from even worse grief later down the road.
 
Aaron is planning on taking my car out on the road to do some driveability testing and tuning on it today. Then if all goes well, it will be put on the dyno tomorrow. He says there is a light at the end of the tunnel now.
 
That's great news Rich. Sure hope the tests go well and you will have your car back in a day or so.:thumbsup:

My car is stuck in the tunnel.:lmao:
 
Things didn't go as planned for Aaron. He said he went to take it for a test drive but didn't even get out of his driveway. First the steering pump was whining like crazy. Evidently Chris never put any fluid in it. Then he said that there were strange clunks like some of the suspension was loose. I know that at least the rear sway bars never got tightened down. Was like that for a good month or so before the car got yanked out of there. And certainly the wheels were not aligned as Chris had stated to me. Aaron also said that the front sway bars were somehow getting in the way of the steering arms, and wasn't sure what was up with that. Had to reroute a brake line that was physically rubbing on a half shaft. Stuff like that..... :ack2:

So yeah, I've been expecting that Aaron will find quite a bit of stuff that just never got done as was claimed, or else was done in a less than professional manner.

He wants to get the car flatbedded to an alignment shop so he can put it on the road, so that isn't going to happen till early next week.

I'd REALLY like to know what Chris was actually doing with all the time he said he was putting the work into my car and saying my car would be done "next week".
 
Told ya bud, if he ever did finish the car it would come back all half assed just like it did.

He doesn't do anything, he just texts on his phone all the time and thinks of ways to lie to people.
 
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