Yeah, just about. If not, there are guys out there who will MAKE harnesses and what not for you.
You might want to bookmark the page for this URL -> http://www.speartech.com/
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Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.
427 engine (part 2) - RHS block
- Thread starter Rich Z
- Start date
Yeah, just about. If not, there are guys out there who will MAKE harnesses and what not for you.
You might want to bookmark the page for this URL -> http://www.speartech.com/
While I was under the car looking at the O2 harnesses to see what I would need to replaced those spliced wires, I looked over the O2 sensors themselves. Someone PLEASE tell me that Aaron didn't cross thread this sensor in the bung and it's just the odd way I'm looking at it....
vetteguy61
New member
O2 Bung.
It sure looks cross threaded to me Rich. Looks like metal shavings in there. Hope I'm wrong.
It sure looks cross threaded to me Rich. Looks like metal shavings in there. Hope I'm wrong.
It sure looks cross threaded to me Rich. Looks like metal shavings in there. Hope I'm wrong.
That may be anti-seize lubricant we're seeing. Guess I need to find an 18mm thread tapping tool to clean that thread up when the new O2 sensors and harness adapters come in. Heck, I may already have one, as I have several tap and die sets around here somewhere.
There are a couple of guys out of Panama City coming over here tomorrow (Saturday) to help me out with some of the issues with my car. Guy named Silas (don't know his last name) and the other guy is Charlie Stummpp who evidently has a shop out that way.
Hopefully we can get that injector leak squared away and put that 2 bar MAP sensor in. Then get a preliminary tune done with the new sensor and go from there.
gmjunkie
Corvette,GM Classic Freak
Don't know who did it,But it's damned sure cross threaded!~!!:thumbsup:
Well, it's a miracle, but I do have the 18mm 1.5 tap needed to clean up those cross threaded threads in the O2 bung. Have this BIG tap and die set that I bought a LONG time ago and this will be the first time I will ever use any part of it.
Being a tool-a-holic pays off sometimes..... :hehehe:
I will go through spells where I just want to have TOOLS. Doesn't matter if I have an immediate NEED for them, but I think maybe sometime in the future, I just might.... And as my mom made the mistake of saying to me when I was a kid, "Richard, better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it." Boy, I've NEVER let her forget that one...
Being a tool-a-holic pays off sometimes..... :hehehe:
I will go through spells where I just want to have TOOLS. Doesn't matter if I have an immediate NEED for them, but I think maybe sometime in the future, I just might.... And as my mom made the mistake of saying to me when I was a kid, "Richard, better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it." Boy, I've NEVER let her forget that one...
Well, today went pretty well. Little bit of a snafu concerning the o-ring, though. Charlie forgot to grab them on the way out the door, but they (there were three guys here, Silas, Charlie and Steve) figured they could get one locally. Hah. I warned them. Called all over the place, and it was right comical listening to Silas's side of the conversation. They wanted VIN number, auto or manual trans, etc.,.. I told them I just don't buy much local any longer. Spent too much time trying to find stuff that they SHOULD stock on the shelves and coming away empty handed, so I just order stuff online and to hell with them. And they whine about people not shopping local... :crazy03:
Anyway, the o-ring at the top of the injector on the #6 cylinder had a very noticeable chunk out of it, and Charlie pulled one off of the car he drove over there and that seemed to do the trick. He must have flipped th o-ring around on his own car because it didn't leak there. I'll still replace mine when the o-rings come in, however. But at least the fuel leak has been cured.
Charlie spent some time working on the tune for the idle and got it to where it doesn't tend to stall when you let off of the gas. Still running very rich, as your nose will tell you, but that's apparently from the O2s being whacked. Yeah, he verified that the driver's side O2 is definitely cross threaded. He wasn't much impressed with the wiring job on the O2s neither. But hopefully I'll have that squared away by next weekend if the parts come in. Between what Chris Harwood and Aaron Scott did to my car over the past 2 years, I can't say that anyone was much impressed with the way the wiring and hoses were laid out underneath and left hanging against things they really shouldn't have been.
But the engine seems to run solidly, at least at a standstill. Of course, I'm not going to be driving it yet, as I don't want the engine to be running overly rich for any length of time, even though Aaron sent it home with me in that condition.
So yeah, it seems a step on the right direction, but still not out of the woods yet with a car I can actually drive....
Oh, and Silas, thanks a LOT for setting this up and helping me to feel a LOT better about this entire situation. :thumbsup:
Anyway, the o-ring at the top of the injector on the #6 cylinder had a very noticeable chunk out of it, and Charlie pulled one off of the car he drove over there and that seemed to do the trick. He must have flipped th o-ring around on his own car because it didn't leak there. I'll still replace mine when the o-rings come in, however. But at least the fuel leak has been cured.
Charlie spent some time working on the tune for the idle and got it to where it doesn't tend to stall when you let off of the gas. Still running very rich, as your nose will tell you, but that's apparently from the O2s being whacked. Yeah, he verified that the driver's side O2 is definitely cross threaded. He wasn't much impressed with the wiring job on the O2s neither. But hopefully I'll have that squared away by next weekend if the parts come in. Between what Chris Harwood and Aaron Scott did to my car over the past 2 years, I can't say that anyone was much impressed with the way the wiring and hoses were laid out underneath and left hanging against things they really shouldn't have been.
But the engine seems to run solidly, at least at a standstill. Of course, I'm not going to be driving it yet, as I don't want the engine to be running overly rich for any length of time, even though Aaron sent it home with me in that condition.
So yeah, it seems a step on the right direction, but still not out of the woods yet with a car I can actually drive....
Oh, and Silas, thanks a LOT for setting this up and helping me to feel a LOT better about this entire situation. :thumbsup:
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Here's a short video I took after Charlie had finished doing some preliminary tuning on the idle to try to get rid of the stalling when you let your foot off of the gas pedal.
Still got a long way to go though.
Need to replace those screwed up O2 sensors and harnesses (thanks Aaron), fix the exhaust leaks (thanks Aaron), and then replace the cheapo truck ignition wires as well as the rest of the ignition stuff.
I've got stuff on order to do exhaust and O2 stuff, so just a matter of waiting for it all to get here so I can start.
Still got a long way to go though.
Need to replace those screwed up O2 sensors and harnesses (thanks Aaron), fix the exhaust leaks (thanks Aaron), and then replace the cheapo truck ignition wires as well as the rest of the ignition stuff.
I've got stuff on order to do exhaust and O2 stuff, so just a matter of waiting for it all to get here so I can start.
Yes, that certainly puzzles me as well.
I decided to change the oil and filter on the car today. Aaron told me that it has been changed at least three times since he's had it at the shop, even though there have only been 400 miles logged on the odometer since he's had it. But I figured that with the car running pretty rich because of those screwed up O2 sensors, probably would be a good thing to do now, just to play it safe.
I was quite surprised at how dark the oil was coming out of that oil pan....
I was quite surprised at how dark the oil was coming out of that oil pan....
Andy, before I forget, you need to know that if you use the rear O2 sensors, you will need an adapter to hook up the O2 cables to the front wiring harnesses. The connectors are different. The rear O2 sensor cables for the C5 have a square 4 pin connector whereby the fronts have an inline straight 4 pin connector. LG Motorsports has both the extension cables for the front O2s as well as the adaptors if you use the rear O2s.
Just a fyi....
I had a LONG phone conversation with Aaron today, and it didn't get as heated as I really thought it would. We both kept our cool and had a conversation that we will likely both look back on as being the best that could be hoped for, all things considered. I simply laid out all the cards on the table as I see them, and Aaron laid his own out as he saw them. Obviously there are some disagreements in interpretation of some of the points.
But point of the matter is that I had expected to be driving a car home from his shop that I could DRIVE afterwards. It's been in my garage ever since, nearly a month later, except for a brief trip to my front porch so Bret could look at the tuning remotely for me. There are problems that need to be resolved that I thought I had already paid him for, that I will either need to resolve myself, or pay someone else to resolve them for me before my car is driveable. Aaron said I could bring the car to his shop and he would fix the problems, and even offered to have Jim Smith come to my house to work on the tune. My response was simply that I couldn't see any reason in doing it that way, as they had already had 14 months to do this, and I couldn't see any reason why I should consider giving them more time at this point.
With that in mind, I asked Aaron if he would consider refunding a small amount of the money I paid him, and he agreed, saying he would send me a check in two weeks. I sent him a followup email detailing the conversation and asked him to reply with an acknowledgement of our verbal agreement.
I really hate burning bridges, even when there appears to be no choice in the matter. But it is what it is.....
But point of the matter is that I had expected to be driving a car home from his shop that I could DRIVE afterwards. It's been in my garage ever since, nearly a month later, except for a brief trip to my front porch so Bret could look at the tuning remotely for me. There are problems that need to be resolved that I thought I had already paid him for, that I will either need to resolve myself, or pay someone else to resolve them for me before my car is driveable. Aaron said I could bring the car to his shop and he would fix the problems, and even offered to have Jim Smith come to my house to work on the tune. My response was simply that I couldn't see any reason in doing it that way, as they had already had 14 months to do this, and I couldn't see any reason why I should consider giving them more time at this point.
With that in mind, I asked Aaron if he would consider refunding a small amount of the money I paid him, and he agreed, saying he would send me a check in two weeks. I sent him a followup email detailing the conversation and asked him to reply with an acknowledgement of our verbal agreement.
I really hate burning bridges, even when there appears to be no choice in the matter. But it is what it is.....
ironhorse
Road Warrior
Hi Rich, I have been following this thread from the begining...I think you asking Aaron to defray some of the money back is deserved...You expected a car that would be running and streetable at this point in time, considering how long Aaron has been working on it...As far as the guy tuning the car, I am not impressed at all with his expertise...Hang in there, do what you have to do, you will get the car sorted out...
Aaron called me today. I think he feels just as bad about all this as I do. I'm actually surprised that he is taking the position that he feels that he just screwed up and let me down. Most guys would never admit something like that, so I do have to hand it to him for agreeing with my perspective, much less even LOOKING at it from that angle. I guess my car has just beaten both of us down, maybe even more so him than me. Maybe a bridge didn't get burned after all.
Anyway, Aaron said he spent a lot of time on the phone checking around for someone to get my car tuned RIGHT. He said nearly everyone brought the name up of a guy named Mike Carnahan (VengeancePCM.com) out of Cummings, Ga. I'll give the guy a call and talk to him, but right now I've got other cats to fry. I'm not totally sold on the 2 bar MAP tune quite yet, to be honest. Maybe I'll see what this guy Mike says. Seems like there are some pros and cons to either method. The 2 BAR MAP tune gives you more detailed mapping of the tune via tables, especially during boost, but at the expense of going to a system that is not self adapting to changing environmental conditions on the fly as it is now. In some respects, I like the idea of a fuel and ignition system that LEARNS as it goes. But I guess what matters most is what would be BEST for my setup. Unfortunately, I may not know the actual answer to that question until looking at it from hindsight.
But I have plenty to do before I get to that point, anyway. No sense worrying about tuning too much beyond just getting the car running till I get all the mechanical and ignition issues straightened away. I'm hoping just replacing the O2s and harnesses will straighten up the readings I'm getting off of them. If not, well, SOMETHING else has to be causing it that will have to be tracked down. Heck, maybe the exhaust leaks are throwing a monkey wrench into things.
In any event, some of the exhaust parts came in today, so maybe by the weekend I can start getting the exhaust system straightened out. If not, I guess I know what I'll be doing over Christmas weekend.
Anyway, Aaron said he spent a lot of time on the phone checking around for someone to get my car tuned RIGHT. He said nearly everyone brought the name up of a guy named Mike Carnahan (VengeancePCM.com) out of Cummings, Ga. I'll give the guy a call and talk to him, but right now I've got other cats to fry. I'm not totally sold on the 2 bar MAP tune quite yet, to be honest. Maybe I'll see what this guy Mike says. Seems like there are some pros and cons to either method. The 2 BAR MAP tune gives you more detailed mapping of the tune via tables, especially during boost, but at the expense of going to a system that is not self adapting to changing environmental conditions on the fly as it is now. In some respects, I like the idea of a fuel and ignition system that LEARNS as it goes. But I guess what matters most is what would be BEST for my setup. Unfortunately, I may not know the actual answer to that question until looking at it from hindsight.
But I have plenty to do before I get to that point, anyway. No sense worrying about tuning too much beyond just getting the car running till I get all the mechanical and ignition issues straightened away. I'm hoping just replacing the O2s and harnesses will straighten up the readings I'm getting off of them. If not, well, SOMETHING else has to be causing it that will have to be tracked down. Heck, maybe the exhaust leaks are throwing a monkey wrench into things.
In any event, some of the exhaust parts came in today, so maybe by the weekend I can start getting the exhaust system straightened out. If not, I guess I know what I'll be doing over Christmas weekend.
One of the things I want to do is to straighten out that fuel line that goes across the front of my intake. Harwood put it in so that it is sitting too high and rubs against the inside of my hood. Aaron just didn't get around to fixing it for me, so it's up to me, it seems.
I thought, "heck, no problem, I'll just get some new ends and a length of braided hose".... Not so fast. After reading a LOT about this, apparently there are some incompatibilities between different manufacturers. In other words, hose from one manufacturer might not work in the connectors from another. And I'm trying to eyeball the hose to figure out if it's "-6" or "-8"... :shrug01: Outside diameter is around a half inch. But I'm just guessing if I say I think it is -6 hose.
I'm thinking I want to put 45 degree ends on the hose so it will form out towards the front of the car, so I can set it lower and in front of the intake manifold. Yeah, I guess I could just take apart the one on there and shorten so I can lower the one side, but maybe the other way will look neater.
Worse comes to worse, at least I'll have some hose and ends in case I screw something up. Always good to have a backup...
I thought, "heck, no problem, I'll just get some new ends and a length of braided hose".... Not so fast. After reading a LOT about this, apparently there are some incompatibilities between different manufacturers. In other words, hose from one manufacturer might not work in the connectors from another. And I'm trying to eyeball the hose to figure out if it's "-6" or "-8"... :shrug01: Outside diameter is around a half inch. But I'm just guessing if I say I think it is -6 hose.
I'm thinking I want to put 45 degree ends on the hose so it will form out towards the front of the car, so I can set it lower and in front of the intake manifold. Yeah, I guess I could just take apart the one on there and shorten so I can lower the one side, but maybe the other way will look neater.
Worse comes to worse, at least I'll have some hose and ends in case I screw something up. Always good to have a backup...
CorvetteJohn
Deceased
Temporarily you might try to rotate the 45 fitting to pull the hose down away from the hood.
I looked it over with that in mind, but it appears to me that all that would happen is that it would push the hose up higher. I think I would need to take off about an inch of hose in order to get it down lower. So I figure if I'm going to go that far with it, might as well try to dress it up a little better.
I sent those pics to Summit Racing and asked them to tell me what I need to get in order to do what I want.
Oh yeah, I found a small section in Summit Racing's catalog explaining how to tell which size AN (btw, for those who don't know, like me just a few hours ago, "AN" stands for "Army/Navy") hose and fitting I have. It appears to be -8 and not -6.
CorvetteJohn
Deceased
I agree about pushing it up farther if you rotate towards the throttle body but if you rotate it back towards the wheel it should pull down on the hose.
I think the correct fix is the one you are pursuing with Summit. At least as looks and function goes. My idea was just to keep it off the hood temporarily.
I think the correct fix is the one you are pursuing with Summit. At least as looks and function goes. My idea was just to keep it off the hood temporarily.