• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

427 engine (part 2) - RHS block

Doing both is the same first part of the description....and yes, don't let it intimidate you, it is not difficult. I have 2 like new out of a wreck but since you went this far get new. As you already saw, the brake lines and harness to the rear wheel sensors/parking brake cables need to be secured back where they belong. I have seen them even catch and get wrapped around the axle!! I'm impressed with what you accomplishing on your own. Wish you were closer, I would come up and help. DON'T forget about the way your using the vented can for crankcase......it will cause damage guaranteed over time.
 
Doing both is the same first part of the description....and yes, don't let it intimidate you, it is not difficult. I have 2 like new out of a wreck but since you went this far get new. As you already saw, the brake lines and harness to the rear wheel sensors/parking brake cables need to be secured back where they belong. I have seen them even catch and get wrapped around the axle!! I'm impressed with what you accomplishing on your own. Wish you were closer, I would come up and help. DON'T forget about the way your using the vented can for crankcase......it will cause damage guaranteed over time.

Yeah, I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube last night showing people replacing the half shafts on front wheel drive vehicles. It looks to be roughly the same procedure. The trick is just getting the wheel/hub assembly out of the way so that the shaft can be pulled out of the differential. I'm going to take a bunch of pics/video of that area of my car so at least I'll have something to refer back to if I forget how exactly it goes back together again.

In any event, I found a CorvetteForum member up in New York who has two brand new GM shaft assemblies in the box that he can sell to me at a reasonable price. So I just need to wait for them to get here. In the meantime there is some other stuff I can be doing on the car. I never did understand the philosophy that was evident with the two shops my car was in that once they hit a roadblock, to leave the car sitting till that roadblock cleared up instead of moving on to something else that needed to be done that COULD be done.

As for the crankcase ventilation, I'll keep my eye closely on the state of the oil. I want to see if it looks as dirty after just 400 miles or so of driving while I have it as it did after Aaron had the car and supposedly did three oil changes in that interim.

BTW, I found a big rubber hose disconnected at the front of the engine bay on the driver's side. I believe there is something called an "air pump" there, which apparently must be disconnected. What is that device there for? Any ideas why it would be disconnected?

Also, JEGS called me up about that problem I had with the melted convoluted tubing. They say it's only able to withstand 200 degrees. Ouch. Doesn't seem like this would work very well in an engine bay. They are sending me what they are calling higher temp tubing, but I cross checked the part numbers and they are only good to 257 degrees. I don't like the fact that the wiring harnesses for the fuel injectors and ignition coils are merely wrapped electrical tape, but what can I get that will cover them appropriately yet not melt all over the damned place? And it's got to be something slitted, as I'm not about to try to take those harnesses apart in order to fee wires through a tube of some sort. Aaron pointed out how he had cleaned up the engine wiring when I went out there to pick up the car last month, but I looked at it and was thinking "Electrical tape? That's the best you can do?" But what do I know? :shrug01:
 
Today I took video and pics of everything I could in the rear wheel well so if I forget how something goes together when I'm trying to put the new half shaft back in, I'll have something to reference.

Then I decided to tackle that peek-a-boo air inlet STS pipe that was sticking out of the front of the passenger side rear wheel well. Biggest issue was just getting to the pipe to figure out what was wrong. I had never taken out the inner panels for the wheel wells before, and I had to do that front and back to get to everything. Also needed to loosen up the front fender to get to the couplings up front there. This all went pretty smoothly, but I did find an attachment point for the front fender at top of the wheel well that apparently Aaron ripped out. I know he had been taking the PCM out and putting it back again quite often for Jim while there were working on the tuning, as they were putting the PCM on the bench to do the hookup to their PC. My guess is that Aaron did not remove that top attachment screw and eventually just ripped the darn thing out.

ps_fender_well_01.jpg


Not sure if there is any way for me to fix that chunk taken out so I can put an insert in there to attach a screw to. :mad:

Also found several screws and nuts missing here and there that I need to try to find replacements for. One of the nuts used to hold the brake cooling inlet bezel in front of the rear wheel opening was run out all the way to the end of the attachment screw and not even holding the bezel in place. Since the front one was missing completely (but it's nearly impossible to get to that with the STS pipe in place) there were only two out of four nuts holding it to the body panel.

And it certainly is impressive looking at a braided hose that was too long, and instead of shortening it to the correct length, just got wound in a loop around the tail pipe support..... :rolleyes:

hose_loop_01.jpg


Anyway, the STS pipe was just too far back, so I had to loosen all of the clamps and move the pipe forward till it cleared the wheel opening. This sounds easy enough writing it, but I actually had to use a rubber mallet to coerce the tube forwards. It's jammed in pretty good and even the coupler clamp up front was a challenge to move, as it was pinned against the frame from the pressure of the tube against it. The coupler up there behind the fender panel doesn't look like a regular STS coupler, and seems to be thinner. It appears someone put an additional third hose clamp there, I guess to keep it from bulging in the gap between the two pipe ends under boost. That would be a real pain in the butt to get a thicker coupler in there, so I decided to just leave it and hope for the best. Maybe sometime I'll try to find a WIDE hose clamp to put in there instead of trying to pull that coupler out and replace it.

I had to slit a section of coupler so I could fit it around the top of the pipe going over the wheel well to act as a buffer between the pipe and the frame, and then jammed the pipe in there tight while tightening down all the coupler clamps. Doesn't rattle any longer and I think it looks MUCH better now...

Before:
pipe_02.jpg


After:
pipe_03.jpg


Oh yeah, I checked and I don't have a 34mm socket for that nut on the end of the half shaft holding the hub to it. So I need to get one before those half shafts come in.

At least I felt like I got SOMETHING accomplished today...
 
You might try this for the broken attachment. Put a piece of aluminum behind the hole and pop rivet it in place. Now drill a couple of holes in the aluminum.

Then use some epoxy putty to fill the cavity. Push the epoxy into the holes you drilled to help it hold the epoxy patch

When it is dry you should be able to drill it for the screw that holds the fender.
 
You might try this for the broken attachment. Put a piece of aluminum behind the hole and pop rivet it in place. Now drill a couple of holes in the aluminum.

Then use some epoxy putty to fill the cavity. Push the epoxy into the holes you drilled to help it hold the epoxy patch

When it is dry you should be able to drill it for the screw that holds the fender.

Yeah, that sounds like a good idea. I was thinking along the lines of JB Weld, since that stuff can fix just about anything. I found a site selling assortments of body panel screws, bolts, nuts, and clips, so I ordered some. That way I can see what I have to work with before starting on a fix.

I do have to admit that this is rather aggravating having to spend all this time and money fixing stuff that others broke on my car. And I don't EVEN want to get into all of the scratches on the paint that happened between the time that the body shop in Blountstown sanded and buffed them all out, and the day I drove the car back home from Thomasville. And yeah, the cracked paint on the hood REALLY sets my teeth on edge... Connie says I grind my teeth something awful while I'm asleep. Well no damned wonder...
 
I had a LONG phone conversation with Aaron today, and it didn't get as heated as I really thought it would. We both kept our cool and had a conversation that we will likely both look back on as being the best that could be hoped for, all things considered. I simply laid out all the cards on the table as I see them, and Aaron laid his own out as he saw them. Obviously there are some disagreements in interpretation of some of the points.

But point of the matter is that I had expected to be driving a car home from his shop that I could DRIVE afterwards. It's been in my garage ever since, nearly a month later, except for a brief trip to my front porch so Bret could look at the tuning remotely for me. There are problems that need to be resolved that I thought I had already paid him for, that I will either need to resolve myself, or pay someone else to resolve them for me before my car is driveable. Aaron said I could bring the car to his shop and he would fix the problems, and even offered to have Jim Smith come to my house to work on the tune. My response was simply that I couldn't see any reason in doing it that way, as they had already had 14 months to do this, and I couldn't see any reason why I should consider giving them more time at this point.

With that in mind, I asked Aaron if he would consider refunding a small amount of the money I paid him, and he agreed, saying he would send me a check in two weeks. I sent him a followup email detailing the conversation and asked him to reply with an acknowledgement of our verbal agreement.

I really hate burning bridges, even when there appears to be no choice in the matter. But it is what it is.....

Well, so much for that. On 12/13/11 Aaron told me he was going to post a refund of $2,000 via my credit card account number by Friday (12/16) because he was expecting a payment from a customer at that time. That didn't happen. Nor have I received the check for the refund that he promised me ("I'm a man of my word", he said). :rolleyes: The email I sent to him as a followup to our conversation indicating I would expect the check by 12/31/11 was never replied to nor ackowledged, neither. I guess I can figure out how this is going to go...

Still finding screws missing and other crap. Decided to pull all the wheels off to check the brake lines since that problem with the half shaft, and had to wind up bending a couple of lines up front away from the frame or other metal parts they were hitting against.
 
Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself a bit here, but I am thinking about what I need to do with the fuel system to get rid of that external Aeromotive pump. One problem I'm having trouble getting my brain around is figuring how much of the stock wiring has been butchered between the two shops that my car has been in. I took off the back inspection panel on the driver's side tank and it appears that my stock pump is still in place. Of course the stock plumbing is disconnected with the new plumbing going to the Aeromotive pump. I don't have any idea what to look for as far as a wiring harness is concerned, either at the pump end, or up in the engine compartment. Certainly I don't want to use that direct 12 volt wire running directly to the fuse block.

So, what do I need to look for to see what I have to work with and what I have to fix that has been butchered?

Secondly, what options do I have available for adequate fuel flow to an engine that has dynoed at 692 rwhp? Will a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump coupled with the stock fuel pump be adequate, or do I need a stronger pump in the tank to replace the stock one? I believe Lingenfelter sells a replacement pump, and looking over their install instructions, it doesn't look too tough to tackle. But honestly, the Kenne Bell install instructions left me scratching my head..... :(

If I can get this fuel delivery issue straightened out, honestly, that will be a BIG load off of my mind about this car.

After reading about this stuff, I can't help but wonder why in the Hell Harwood went with that funky Aeromotive pump. There appears to be a lot more elegant methods to get higher fuel flow than what he chose to do. I sure do wish I knew more about it back then so I could have stopped him in his tracks with his plan. But I thought the guy knew what he was doing...
 
Heck, I don't even know if the stock harness for the fuel system is still there. Not knowing what it looks like, I wouldn't know if it's not there. Harwood had a habit of hacking harnesses for wire and connectors to be used elsewhere. Maybe I need to just take some pics and let you more experienced guys tell me what is or isn't there for me so I know what I have to deal with.

Thanks....
 
Rich, look in the fuse box and try to locate the fuel pump fuse and also the fuel pump relay. Harwood may have just removed the fuse and relay to de-energize the fuel pump circuit. on most sending units, there is one plug that the power for the fuel pump and the sending unit signal wires connect through. to keep the sending unit working he may have done this as it would be easier than actually wiring the aftermarket pump the proper way.

also IF the fuse and relay are not in the place that they are suppose to be DO NOT install them as the fuel pump in the tank can turn on and spray fuel everywhere since there are no fuel lines connected to the top of the sending unit as you have stated.

you need to look under the hood and see if you can locate the end of the fuel lines that would connect to the factory fuel rail. that way you will have a starting point for when you go to install a new in-tank pump.
 
Rich, look in the fuse box and try to locate the fuel pump fuse and also the fuel pump relay. Harwood may have just removed the fuse and relay to de-energize the fuel pump circuit. on most sending units, there is one plug that the power for the fuel pump and the sending unit signal wires connect through. to keep the sending unit working he may have done this as it would be easier than actually wiring the aftermarket pump the proper way.

also IF the fuse and relay are not in the place that they are suppose to be DO NOT install them as the fuel pump in the tank can turn on and spray fuel everywhere since there are no fuel lines connected to the top of the sending unit as you have stated.

you need to look under the hood and see if you can locate the end of the fuel lines that would connect to the factory fuel rail. that way you will have a starting point for when you go to install a new in-tank pump.

Thanks, Ben. That gives me some info to start from. Yeah, I need to trace that stuff anyway to see if Harwood even bothered to put a fuel filter in the fuel line... :rolleyes:

How many fuel lines actually run back to the pump from the fuel rail? I do see one hose cut off in back of the engine. I think it's on the passenger side if I remember correctly.

Oh yeah, thanks for the tip about NOT hooking up power to the stock pump prematurely! That could get ugly if I unwittingly developed an fuel air bomb in my garage. :ack2:
 
there should be 1 pressure line from the tank to the fuel rail, and then 1 return line (normally smaller than the feed line) from the regulator to the tank. then from the tank there should be a vent/purge line off the tank to the evap canister.

here are a few diagrams that I think are of the C5 fuel tank setup if you don't have any.

c5fueltanks-2copy.jpg


c5fueltanks-1copy-1.jpg



where is the Aeromotive pump getting it's fuel supply from?
 
there should be 1 pressure line from the tank to the fuel rail, and then 1 return line (normally smaller than the feed line) from the regulator to the tank. then from the tank there should be a vent/purge line off the tank to the evap canister.

here are a few diagrams that I think are of the C5 fuel tank setup if you don't have any.

where is the Aeromotive pump getting it's fuel supply from?

Ah, yeah, that helps some with seeing what is going on in the fuel tanks. I didn't realize the fuel filter was in one of the tanks itself. Isn't there an external one also in a stock system? I do know there is *something* related to the fuel system behind the driver's side fender. I'm guessing some sort of pressure regulator. It's been making some odd noises every now and again when I would crank the car up.

Frankly, I don't know where the fuel is actually coming from to the Aeromotive. I just assumed Chris tapped into the stock supply line. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow and try to figure out what I have to deal with. Not expecting the half shafts till the end of the week anyway....

I'm hoping I will be able to just reroute the new braided fuel lines back to the stock fuel lines somehow. I certainly don't want to have to rerun fuel lines to the fuel rails if I don't have to.

Thanks for your help..
 
http://www.corvettegarage.com/product/lingenfelter-corvette-in-tank-fuel-pump-for-c5-and-z06.html

You will have to use a volt/ohm meter to determine if you still have power to the stock harness connector but this and other intank replacement pumps work well. The A-1000 is a monster and we have used it to supply 1000 rwhp twin turbo builds but it is noisy.

Check out Lonnies Performance as well....he has a drop in complete assy that is top notch. :thumbsup:

BTW, I did contact Lonnies Performance. Seems like this would be the easiest solution if I don't have too much trouble getting my fuel system back to a basically stock configuration. What this Lonnie does is to have you send him your stock fuel pump, and he converts it to a dual stage two pump system right in the gas tank. He quoted a price of $700. I think a LPE pump and a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump would be somewhat cheaper, at the expense of a more complicated wiring install. I'll have to see how many pennies I can scrape together. Between the payment I made to Aaron and all this stuff I've been having to buy to fix the crap left (or made anew) in my car is straining the finances a bit.
 
Ah, yeah, that helps some with seeing what is going on in the fuel tanks. I didn't realize the fuel filter was in one of the tanks itself. Isn't there an external one also in a stock system? I do know there is *something* related to the fuel system behind the driver's side fender. I'm guessing some sort of pressure regulator. It's been making some odd noises every now and again when I would crank the car up.

Frankly, I don't know where the fuel is actually coming from to the Aeromotive. I just assumed Chris tapped into the stock supply line. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow and try to figure out what I have to deal with. Not expecting the half shafts till the end of the week anyway....

I'm hoping I will be able to just reroute the new braided fuel lines back to the stock fuel lines somehow. I certainly don't want to have to rerun fuel lines to the fuel rails if I don't have to.

Thanks for your help..

Theoretically there should be an inline filter between the fuel pump and the fuel rail in the factory system, there is also the "sock" or pre-filter on the fuel pump.

I HOPE Chris put a filter somewhere inline with the pump and fuel rail.

on the part in the fender, I have no clue what that is.
 
I'll get some pics of that tomorrow.

BTW, the fuel pump in my car mounts from the back of the fuel tank, and not from the top. So I believe this will be a bit easier for me to get to, since I shouldn't have to drop the tank completely out of the car to get to it.

As far as Harwood putting in a fuel filter or not, would it really surprise you to find out that he didn't?
 
OK, I've got 20 pics that I've taken of the fuel system. I might do a video later on trying to show everything in a continuous stream..

First off, here's what I think is the pressure regulator inside of the driver's side front fender.
fuel_system_01.jpg


Then on the driver's side, this one shows a cut off hose that I believe was to the fuel rail...
fuel_system_02.jpg


I believe this is the other end of that hose, which was tucked into the gas tank shield on the driver's side..
fuel_system_10.jpg


Next is where the braided fuel line goes to the fuel rail on the passenger side.
fuel_system_03.jpg


And here is where the fuel line ties into the fuel rail on the driver's side..
fuel_system_04.jpg


Continued....
 
I'm not sure, but this looks like the starter hot cable laying across the braided fuel line on the passenger side...
fuel_system_05.jpg


This is the bundle of braided lines running above the tunnel plate on the passenger side.
fuel_system_06.jpg


And this is the view from the front driver's side tunnel plate. I believe the rubber hose is the one indicated in earlier pics.
fuel_system_07.jpg


I'm not sure what this gold colored thingie is, but I believe it is in the fuel line prior to going into the pressure regulator.
fuel_system_08.jpg


Here is the stock fuel filter, which as far as I can tell, is not hooked up to anything.
fuel_system_11.jpg


Continued....
 
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