• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

C5 Serious Issues with Loose Wires?

MADN3SS

MADN3SS

New member
My Z06 will be 10 years old in 11 days. It's got 65,000 miles on it.

I was driving to work and I went through an intersection with a large bump in it and all of a sudden I got major warning/malfunction lights.

On the display was "Service Traction Control", "Service Active Handling", "Security", the Airbag light, "Reduced Engine Power", the radio went off, "Low Fuel" and the gas gauge was empty when I had a 1/2 tank. I didn't actually notice reduced engine power though.

I tried to check the DIC initally but it said "No Comm."

After I got to work and shut it down I was able to check the codes. Here they are:

P1626 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit
U1300 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Ground
U1301 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Battery
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
U1255 Generic Loss Communications
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

There was also a U1088, but wasn't able to find out what that was.

I drove home and there was no problems. I drove to work the following night and I had the same issue, though after hitting another hard bump intentionally, the radio came back on and some of the other warnings disappeared. Any idea where I should be looking for a loose wire/connection?

Thanks.
 
Obviously an electrical problem.
Sounds like that "bump" may have caused a wire to short?

Anyway, did a little searching and found these links that may help you.

I'll bet Greg or Jesse will know if they see this:thumbsup:

Anyway, here you go:

http://www.c6registry.com/Technical/ls205codes.htm

U1088-Lost Communications with Sensing & Diagnostic Module (SDM), BCM-IPC"
Click to expand...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/2686367-tcs-abs-help-please.html

First start with the accordian and see if you can find a problem there. With all of those codes you more than likely have an electrical problem. If the voltage is pulled low enough that could trigger C1214. Otherwise, C1214 may be solved by repairing/replacing the EBCM or it may be more involved and require repair/replacement of EBCM plus replacement of the BPMV. If the BPMV motor is shorted to the case that would cause the EBCM to go bad so just repairing the relay in the EBCM and not replacing the BPMV isn't a complete fix and the problem will come back.

Bill
Click to expand...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-...action-control-service-active-handling-4.html

and:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/1817090-the-improved-ultimate-diy-thread-4.html

Hope some of that helps.
 
Yeah, it's a good idea to clean up the ground wire contacts every once in a while.
 
My guess is the harness connector is loose or needs cleaning up at the PCM. There are two of them.
 
Thanks everyone. How many grounds are there? I had heard something like 20ish. Is there a diagram of how to find them? I'll try and get at the PCM this week to check the connection there as well.
 
Had an additional problem last night on the way to work. I lost all power to the passenger door. Couldn't roll up the window or power lock the door. The lights were off on the passenger panel. I took a sharp turn into the parking lot at work and it came back on.
 
It sounds more like you've jarred one of the connectors loose, and when you make a turn or bounce significantly, it makes momentary contact.

Did you check out the 1st link I gave you?

Maybe shoot Jesse a PM.
 
If you don't already have a set, I would recommend that you pick up the GM maintenance manual set for your car. Well worth having.
 
Look at the main connectors on each frame rail toward the front. One on each side of the front of the motor on the frame rails. They are multi connectors that get corroded over time. You can disconnect and clean each. These are the main ones, yet there are other on the back of the cyl heads. But just as important are the contacts in the igniton switch modual. It invloves removing the ignition switch and snapping the key portion from the switch portion. These become burnt over time and when jostled will cause an intermitant open triggering the DIC codes. They can be cleaned & the unit reassembled.
 
Rich Z said:
If you don't already have a set, I would recommend that you pick up the GM maintenance manual set for your car. Well worth having.
Click to expand...

I was going to a few years ago but never did. I'm hoping to upgrade to a 2006 or 2007 Z06 by the end of next year so I may not get them.
 
I have had 3 cars that I have fixed that did the same thing. All 3 of them had corrosion in the plugs in the door jam plugs inside rubber boot. You might want to check them.
 
OK, I've started cleaning all the chassis grounds but have been only about to locate a few. G101 and G102 right behind the headlamps. G104 under the battery. I'm not sure if it's G103 or G105 that I found, but it was seriously loose. I also found the one behind the drivers side rear wheel, G301 or G401. But I didn't find the one on the opposite side. After tightening down the one that was loose, all was good for the week. But now the problem is back again. So I could use a little help locating the other ones. I know where G107, G201 and G202. The rest...not so much. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Look in the front of the door jam and you will see the rubber boot.Pull it loose from each end and push to one side and you will see two plugs. Pull them apart and check inside them. You can clean the pins and most of the time that will fix the problem. Check both sides.
 
vettextc said:
Look in the front of the door jam and you will see the rubber boot.Pull it loose from each end and push to one side and you will see two plugs. Pull them apart and check inside them. You can clean the pins and most of the time that will fix the problem. Check both sides.
Click to expand...

I got behind the rubber boot on the passenger side and neither of the plugs are corroded. I plugged them back together and the window rolled up. It's the first time in 2 days. Hopefully that solves it. If not, I'll start checking the rest of them.

Thanks.
 
MADN3SS said:
I got behind the rubber boot on the passenger side and neither of the plugs are corroded. I plugged them back together and the window rolled up. It's the first time in 2 days. Hopefully that solves it. If not, I'll start checking the rest of them.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I wonder how many unscrupulous service departments have done just that and charged the customer for a new window regulator?
 
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